nicr4wks

With daylight savings here, and the warmer weather coming up, it's time to get back in to the whole fitness thing. Who's doing it, what workouts are you using and are there any supplements to compliment running? When I stopped in march I was jogging about 5km straight, after a 7 month break I can hardly jog 1km it's amazing how quick you lose it. So far I've just been heading down to a nearby national park and jogging til I can't jog anymore, walking for a few mins then back to jogging, I carry a small bottle of water and use Run Keeper for iPhone to track pace, elevation and make a pretty map of my course. I go after work and before dinner, as food and running sure as hell don't mix! What's everyone else doing?

FPR sold pending payment.

Hi All, Have some R33 parts for sale. Please PM any enquiries. Standard suspension, all 4 corners - $100 Standard front rotors - $50 Gutted cat - $50 Nismo Adjustable FPR - $50

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.do?q=4596

Did you just chuck on a lock bar? Driftworks have a nice kit that replaces the ball joints etc and all, bit costy though

Nope, hicas rack is still in place.

I've tried that, there's maybe 1mm of play in the rear left, it's difficult to see where exactly the movement is coming from. When driving the ass of the car is all over the place and feels like a lot more than just 1mm of play.

Bit of a basic question.. But how can I tell if my HICAS rack ends, or ball joints are worn? Can I just grab the rod and shake it about and look for movement? Or does the rod need to be taken off and each joint inspected using a proper method..

That looks amazing! any more pics?

I've pulled it out and tested in another circuit, if holding the relay I can also feel it click when the car is started.

Hi Guys, Run a diagnostic on my HICAS and have this error returned, checked boot fuse, checked plug at HICAS motor and verified no power, checked relay in the boot which is functioning OK, I'm not sure what else to look at. Can anyone help troubleshoot the cause of this error? Thanks.

Hi guys, I've got 2 sets of front 33 rotors (5 stud). One set has heavy surface rust, very bumpy and are rather worn - $20 The second pair are in good nick, very small outer lip and could be used with just a light sand - $65 PM enquiries!

RB25DET S2, so they have internal igniters, is the procedure for these different to what you've listed above? Thanks

Hi Guys, Does anyone know what triggers the coilpacks to fire off? I'd assume it's 12v to the + and -, then theres the 3rd pin which I'm guessing is trigger. Will applying 12v to this 3rd pin cause them to fire? Cheers.

Hi Guys, I'm trying to track down why my 33 has excessive rear-end play and looking for some advice of what to check next. When driving down a straight road, hitting a pothole/bump with the rear left tyre will cause the rear of the car to pull accross the road. When taking tightish left turns at speed the rear will start to shudder and it feels/sounds as though the tyre is wobbling or skipping accross the road. When jacked up I can rock the wheel and there is about 2-3mm of horizontal play, looking from under the car the entire knuckle is moving not just the wheel. However when driving it feels like a lot more than just 2mm of play. All the nuts and bolts are tight, I've recently replaced the rear right bearing and have no movement in that wheel by hand. My stock suspension had stuffed rear shocks, so I've replaced them with better condition stock suspension about 3 months a go. HICAS is currently disabled due to steering angle sensor (steering wheel not perfectly straight) I'm thinking it could possibly be HICAS ball joints, or play in the hicas rack, but I'm not sure how to diagnose if they are worn. Thanks for any input!

Main North Nissan Adelaide has also had them in stock on the 2 occasions I've gone to buy them.

Few RB25 parts left over from a recent engine swap, they're all from a S2 engine. CAS - $50 new headgasket $80 new exhaust manifold to head gasket $40 injectors and rail $70 injector loom $40 throttle body with tps $40 25det block (water/oil/sensors still attached) - 2 pistons damaged $150 Adjustable FPR $60 (I was told it was a nismo item but there is no brand/model/serial as far as i can see to identify) PM Enquiries..

Anybody know of anyone currently wrecking a 33 in SA? Drop me some contact details please

R33 rear hub, just one. Only need the hub on it's own, not bearing, knuckle etc

I've got a new 25det S2 head gasket left over from a VRS kit I didn't use. It's only an aftermarket oem replacement so nothing fancy. Look around and decide what path you want to take, 60 bucks if you want it.

Was just about to hit new topic.. I'm subscribed to several threads, but only receive email notifications on 1 of them. This week I've unsubscribed from that 1 thread and now don't receive any notifications.

Anyone suggest where I could pick up some standard replacement brake discs by the weekend? I've been calling around and prices vary wildly!

parts on hold.

Parts from a S2 RB25det 133xxxkm unless otherwise stated. PM Enquiries. new headgasket $80 clutch fan $30 injectors and rail $40 s1 ecu $40 injector loom $30 throttle body with tps $30 r32 radiator $15 (average condition, never used by me) 25det block (water/oil pumps/sensors still attached) - 2 pistons damaged $100 Adjustable FPR $40 (I was told it was a nismo item but there is no brand/model/serial as far as i can see to identify) Speco mechanical boost gauge $20 CAS - $50 Crossover intake pipe with stock BOV - $35

Parts from a S2 RB25det 133xxxkm unless otherwise stated. PM Enquiries. new headgasket $80 clutch fan $35 injectors and rail $50 s1 ecu $50 injector loom $40 throttle body with tps $40 r32 radiator $20 (average condition, never used) 25det block (water/oil pumps/sensors still attached) - 2 pistons damaged $150 Adjustable FPR $50 (I was told it was a nismo item but there is no brand/model/serial as far as i can see to identify) Speco mechanical boost gauge $20 CAS - $50 Crossover intake pipe with stock BOV - $35