nicr4wks

If I haven't got one by the weekend I'll drop you a message

RB25DET stock turbo in good working condition.

Stao I killed my stock rb25 turbo on the weekend, what's the cost to send it to you and have it machined with the SS-1 internals?

2x Tyres with legal tread to fit a 18x9.5 rim. 265/35/18, 245/45/18, etc

Yep! and this one.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/352825-concours-900-polisher-vs-2500-wet-sanding-marks/

Skynet, Terminator, ya dig? Current Alpine has some of the imprint features built in, it's nice but not a necessity. Hundred bux for the module aint bad tho.

21st april 2011, Skynet takes over today! I saw your thread in the WA section about that unit, looks the goods. I ditched cd's years a go so driveless doesn't bother me, I am however currently short the required $400

Alpine usb wont work how you're talking, they're designed to read from a filesystem or ipod/iphone protocol. If you could somehow present the tab as a usb drive and constantly write to an mp3 file that could possibly work. I've though about doing something similar with a car pc, currently have an Alpine cda117e, analouge can be fed in via the din plug on the back, but can't work out how to best fit a double din screen along with the headunit. Not to mention the price is non comparable, Centrafuse is a fairly reasonable interface

Did anyone else miss this? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/234-sau-trader-waxit/

What intercooler is that Harey?

Older model brand name units seem to go much cheaper over in the US than they do locally, but a question sapphiregraphics might have the answer to, how different is the US FM band to ours? Are we likely to miss out on any stations by buying a US headunit?

Currently we have the 'buisness trader classifieds' forum (where all traders can post) and the individual business specific trader forums. We are unable to search the specific trader forums without also including private sellers as they are all in the same group. If we had 2 seperated forum groups, one for private sellers and one for business traders this would allow us to better use the search function to diffirentiate between the two, and make it easier for example, to exclude private 'buyer beware' items, only listing new ones from traders, and also make it easier to find which traders have listed a specific part.

No shroud sorry, will measure up and PM you pics when I get home tonight.

Few RB25 parts left over from a recent engine swap, they're all from a S2 engine unless otherwise stated. CAS - $50 new headgasket $80 clutch fan $40 new exhaust manifold to head gasket $40 injectors and rail $80 s1 ecu $50 injector loom $40 throttle body with tps $40 r32(?) radiator $40 25det block (water/oil/sensors still attached) - 2 pistons damaged $250 Adjustable FPR $60 (I was told it was a nismo item but there is no brand/model/serial as far as i can see to identify) PM enquiries.

Few RB25 parts left over from a recent engine swap, they're all from a S2 engine unless otherwise stated. new headgasket $100 clutch fan $60 intake manifold $50 exhaust manifold $50 new exhaust manifold to head gasket $50 power steering pump $50 alternator $50 injectors and rail $100 coilpacks $100 s1 ecu $60 injector loom $50 throttle body with tps $50 r32(?) radiator $50 25det block (water/oil/sensors still attached) - 2 pistons damaged $250 Adjustable FPR $60 (I was told it was a nismo item but there is no brand/model/serial as far as i can see to identify) PM enquiries.

Possibly he means the skyline hoodies ns made?

Turned out to be one of the TPS connectors was not fully clipped on, problem solved!

Hi Guys, My r33 has developed a strange idle issue tonight and so far it's got everyone I've spoken to stumped.. When sitting stationary, depress the clutch and put the car in to any gear, while the clutch is still depressed, the revs jump up to 2000. Put the car back to neutral and the revs drop back to a normal idle. While driving, putting the car to neutral the revs stay at 2k until the car comes to a complete stop, then it drops back to a normal idle. Also going through second at WOT, then changing to third and putting the foot flat, basically as soon as the clutch engages there is a hesitation that feels similar to surge, how ever there is over half a tank of fuel. After the 'surge' to car goes back to running fine until the next gear change (third > fourth) where it does it again. The car has a Bosch 040 fuel pump and a new fuel filter both fitted < 10000km Both of these issues developed tonight around the same time, anyone have ideas of what I can check?

+1 You need a timing light and to set the car to base idle adjust mode via consult.

HICAS Diagnostic Mode There is a HICAS warning light in the instrument cluster. If it comes, on it is indicative of a problem. R32: Check the HICAS oil level (power steering reservoir in some models, or a remote reservoir accessible from the boot) R32 and R33: Check all HICAS electrical connections, and if the light remains on, follow the diagnostic below. Note that having an aftermarket steering wheel fitted without the appropriate HICAS boss adaptor can also cause the HICAS system to show a fault. Switch ignition off, transmission in neutral or auto in Park. Start engine Very quickly (with a couple of seconds), turn the steering wheel left and right about 20 degrees from centre five times, and then pump the brakes five times, then press the brake pedal once more this will enter diagnostic mode. Drive forwards or backwards about 5 metres at a speed less than 10km/hr, this will enter full diagnostic mode. The HICAS light in the instrument cluster will be flashing quickly (for normal) or will flash a code indicating any problems. Long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit. Diagnostics will return to normal after five minutes, or any speed over 10km/hr, or ignition is turned off. HICAS Diagnostic Codes 1989-1993 1 HICAS solenoid right hand 2 HICAS solenoid left hand 3 Cut off valve 4 Power steering solenoid 5 Vehicle speed sensor 6 Steering angle sensor 7 Neutral position sensor 8 (Auto) Parking brake sensor, (Manual) Clutch sensor 9 (Auto) Inhibitor switch, (Manual) Neutral sensor HICAS Diagnostic Codes 1993-1999 11 HICAS control unit 12 HICAS motor power supply not present 13 HICAS motor output not present 21 Vehicle speed sensor not present 22 Steering angle sensor not present 23 Steering angle sensor neutral or not present 24 Rear main sensor input not present 25 Rear sub sensor input not present 31 Parking brake sensor input not present 32 (Auto) Inhibitor switch input not present; (Manual) Neutral switch input not present 33 Engine speed signal not present

Thanks for the replies guys. The NEO does run a bit warmer than the earlier 25's, my thoughs were inline with R31Nismoid and bubba, for a '96 RB25 I was expecting to see 80-90c but had never monitored it after a hard drive to know for sure. Current radiator has had various mixtures of chemiweld and oil through it in a previous life, even though it's been flushed it's probably rooted. I guess I'll be looking at an aftermarket radiator for peace of mind

Hi All, I've been trying to find safe/normal operating temperatures for an RB25det, a good idle seems to be about 80c, but what is considered a safe temperature when you start pushing or tracking the car? After just fitting a replacement engine to my 33 I've been watching the temps very carefully, my dash gauge never moves above 1/4 no matter how hot shit gets so I've been using a consult cable to read from the ecu, currently running water through the system as the engine has only been in for a couple of days and I'm checking for leaks etc. City driving sees 80-86c, I was at wot in 3rd for 15-20 secs heading up a steep hill right after a spirited drive and temps reached 98c, obviously water becomes fairly useless at this point so I just coasted down allowing it to cool. Is +100c normal for an RB being driven hard? If so I guess I should switch to some coolant asap.

no longer required.

1200 with everything minus turbo.