nicr4wks

Anyone currently selling an RB25DET in SA? Prefer S2, with or without manifolds etc. PM me with info please.

Anyone currently selling a 25det in sa? Prefer S2, with or without manifolds etc. PM me with info please.

price drop - $500 for engine, $350 for gasket kit.

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I've put a full description and pics in its own thread here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/357959-sa-rb25det-suit-rebuild-full-vrs-kit/

Hi Guys, I'm chasing $550 for this, included is the head, block, oil/water pumps, belts, sensors, clutch fan etc. Things like power steering, alternator, a/c, manifolds, turbo are not included. I am not interested in parting items at the moment, I am also only interested in pick-up sales for the moment. Please PM enquiries. Up for sale is my S2 rb25det 133,xxx km engine suitable for a rebuild. Recently the head gasket gave way so I bought a full VRS kit and called up a mechanic mate to come give me a hand, when we got the head off the block it was apparent a little more than a gasket kit was required, I do not have the cash or the time to rebuild this engine myself, for me it is more cost/time effective to drop in a 2nd hand motor. Surprisingly prior to the head gasket failing the engine ran fine even with the damages below, I've been daily driving this for the past 2 years. I also have the unopened VRS kit I bought for the job that I will include for an extra $400, it's an extensive kit covering the whole intake, head and exhaust gaskets, including things like the half moons, turbo gaskets, etc and retails for over $500. Bolt found in cylinder 2 Damage to piston 6 Pics:

Hi guys. I've got a S2 rb25det 133,xxxkm bare engine suiting rebuild for sale $550. Also a full brand new unopened VRS gasket kit that will include for an extra $400, this kit has FULL gaskets for intake manifold, head gasket, head seals, exhaust manifold, turbo gaskets (dump etc) and retails for over $500. Please PM any enquiries.

eoi: anyone have an rb25 headgasket they want to get rid of on the cheap?

S2 RB25det long engine 133,xxx km, blown head gasket $700 PM enquiries.

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Hi Guys, My engine saw some serious heat over the weekend (rb25det), turns out my temp gauge doesn't work, it starts out cold and works it's way up to half where it stays. The block got hot enough for oil to burn and the coilpack boots got a bit singed too, bad enough for the engine to seize but some fresh oil and a hill start freed that up. The cause was my headgasket giving out and cyl1 filling up with water. As I'm pulling things apart I'm finding the entire intake is pooled with oil, even the afm has oil splashed all over the inside of it. I'm tossing up whether to put a new head gasket on this engine, or bin it and chuck in another. I've noticed a lot of oil from where the bellhousing meets the back of the engine, so maybe rear main has also melted out? What other things should I be checking on this engine, rings, bearings, etc? I'll have the block out of the car soon for a better inspection. Cheers.

Fuses? Double check starter connections.

Second port in the boot is most likely an addition, you can talk to hicas from the port near the fuse box but the amount of information that can be pulled from it i don't know. Should atleast be some active tests that can be run and diagnostics. It seems software currently available was made on 300zx which has a few small differences to the way skylines present the data, therefore you need to manually speak with the computer in question, ff ff e4 is the init string for hicas, this will cause the hicas computer to listen and respond to the following requests. You can use look rs232 for this. These 2 documents have what you need to know to get started. http://vacated.net/carstuff/Generic_Nissan...table_Ver_2.pdf http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/images_ms/...nds_Issue_6.pdf

What init string are you using, from memory the documented DF ecu does not respond over my consult, I do have something at 0xE7 which afaik is undocumented, always thought this might be the a/c on a 33? Either that or ABS.

The ecu has a sensor wire hooked up so it can monitor on/off status to adjust idle, to actually control the a/c over consult you need to be speaking to a totally different computer. From memory it doesn't work on Skylines.

I've certainly thought about it but never seen a 34 wheel for sale, does it bolt straight up and is the air bag wiring the same? As you've already said getting them functional should be simple enough, would be interesting to see how they are currently wired in the wheel, wether it's resistance or direct wired switches.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sBlfRswpt0&feature=player_embedded#at=87

Sure it's not ADSL2+ over a telstra dslam? "ADSL" will get you 8mbit/1 and "ADSL over POTS G.992.1" 12mbit/1.3 under perfect line conditions. Adam can still tweak the line profile, but you've got to call up to get it done.

You've also got to watch the error correction, speed and snr often look good on higher profiles but a good chunk of speed can be lost to correction on not so good lines. If you're on an Adam dslam, jump on the members page and go to 'View Performance Profile'

Saw a few SAU stickers around loftys/windys last night..

RB (25) flywheel, requires machining - $25. Located in Tea Tree Gully, please PM enquiries.

Set the filters in the headunit as in my above post, if that still doesn't have the 'oomph' you want, turn the sub off and see what the bass coming from your speakers is like.

I would have said 160hz is a bit high, you're letting the sub do the midbass work and changing the sound stage. But play around and see what you prefer. Depending on what your head unit is capable of, use either the crossover settings in the unit, or the crossover settings on the amp. <80hz to the sub. >80hz to the speakers. As mentioned, face the sub to the rear of the boot and make sure your speakers are all wired up +/- correctly, this includes midbass and tweeters.

You would need to check the dimensions of the actual LCD panel, the bybyte cases are generally built to fit specific screens (eg. lilliput 629) Instead of getting a generic parallel relay board, you might want to have a look into the Fusion Brain

I'm currently waiting to see what happens with Pixel QI screens, I've had Lilliput mounted in a bybyte frame and an ebay screen, they've both been shit. Lilliput resistive isn't nearly sensitive enough and resistive touch panels reflect too much light. http://www.mp3car.co...lay-option.html "tft_lcd_org" is currently working on putting together a pixelqi screen with capacitive multitouch, which IMO would be a great combo for a carpc, good daylight visibility and sensitive touch. (check that thread if you don't know what pixelqi is) Something to note with these mini atom pc's, depending what front end you use, I found Centrafuse on a dual core 1.8ghz atom a bit laggy.