nicr4wks

Are all 96 models series 2? Theres no ABS which I didn't think was an option on S2? Charcoal canister is not stock, but looks to be connected up so might pass? FPR looks to be connected up differently to stock. ATMO BOV Is the pod filter secured Looks like the stock boost gauge may have been disconnected, check everything on the cluster works. Hit the headlights with some plastx and clean the engine bay.

About a year a go Dohmar, jrm and myself had a bit of a discussion about consult in another thread, specifically HICAS. Tonight I was bored enough to whip everything out and have another play around, I can initialize the hicas ecu fine and went on to scan registers 00 through FF, but this only returned 1 valid register, 0x01 which seems to be a speed sensor. So perhaps on Skylines we don't get the extra diagnostic information available on the 300zx ecu (steering angle), or maybe my hicas ecu isn't happy, or maybe i'm just wrong. If anyone is still interested in investigating this, would you like to scan for registers, and post up your results? I Used OBD Scan Tech as it already has the function to scan for registers, and lookrs232 to manually send commands to the ECU. Scan Tech already has init strings in it, but if you want to manually address the hicas 'FF FF E4' will get it talking, '5A 01 F0' will start it streaming sensor data for register 0x01 and 0x30 will make it stop.

Spotted Blazk up Belair way tonight

Hi all, Hoping someone will know how to clean away these annoying coolant stains from engine/radiator? I've tried normal car wash, petrol and degreaser. While they are wet they can't be seen, but as soon as the liquid dries away back they come.

Meguiars Plastx, applied with an electric buff (drill attachment works fine)

Replacing fuel pump does not require tuning.

You mean to hook up to the ecu and get error codes etc? ECUTalk, Nissan Data Scan are a couple of the best.

What are people playing online at the moment? I've just installed San Andres + SA-MP again but the servers are practically dead :< If anyone's still on TF2/L4D I'm nicr4wks on steam

R34SKY on St.Bernards just now

What DAB+ dongle are you using?

Bitsus on lower north east this arvo, blue 34gtr at windys tonight.

Just posting up my own experiences as I've done a couple of these diffs now.. My own 33, approx 120,00km, diff would always open wheel. Put in 1x1.49mm + the stock shims, diff would lock on long wide corners but after 2 or so skids when the oil is warm it would again open wheel. Now have 2x1.49mm and have taken 1 stock shim out, diff stays locked a little longer but not much different. Next step is 3x1.49, this would be way over kill for most people but clearly my diff is stuffed. Another 33 diff around the same age, put in 1x1.49 and it was completely locked. Took out one of the stock shims now the diff locks well and realiably.

I don't know for certain about the latest boards, but the earlier ones (first year or so when 24 pin was used) could run off a normal 20 pin ATX. Failing that, I bought 2 430w thermal take psus from MSY a year a go for about 40 bucks each, one's been runing a c2d + 6 hdd's fine ever since, and the other is still powering a 2x100wrms car amp.

Or ring and have someone you can't understand answer Turned on my desktop for the first time in ages the other day to install NFS, and to my surprise the gtx260 I bought over a year and a half a go can still put out 1920x1080 with everything set to high and a decent frame rate..

So, I finally signed up on Sunday, when do i get to rep my club member user bar?

Spotted a white 33 S372-AAZ tonight with the music cranked booting it down main st Lobethal while it was packed out

http://www.sausa.com.au/member-form Options listed are.. Cash Cheque Money Order Internet Bank Transfer How can I pay via paypal?

When searching for gt-r the following error is displayed: Erreur Sphinx : searchd error: index ipb_search_topics: syntax error, unexpected $end near 'r' Merci de contacter un Administrateur ! If you search for "gt-r" the search is successful.

Fairly sure I've adjusted my timing so much via consult that flat foot acceleration has resulted in pinging, just read up on things before you go changing them.

Thanks NewKleer I got hold of a timing light, and confirmed the idle timing was at 5. I turned the cas and managed to get this up to around 10-12 as the timing seemed to be jumping around a lot, the ecu then reported 5-7 at idle and the car drove much smoother and puled harder. As the cas is now turned as far as it will go and I'm still not at 15, I'm thinking of trying another one to see if my cas is faulty.

No longer required

I have some rims at home that from memory are either 9x18 or 9.5x18 (will measure up when I get home). I normally run 265/35/18, but have been offered some 245/45/18 very cheap, is there a method to work out if these tire's will fit, and what the size limits are i could run? Cheers.

EOI: 265/35/18 with legal tread.

Consult is reporting my timing as 5° BTDC at ~800rpm on warm idle, FSM states idle should be 15° BTDC at 650rpm. Would this affect timing over the whole rev range, and overall power? If I fix the idle so it's at 650rpm and the timing is still not correct, do I just adjust the CAS until it is back in specification? My 33 is pretty low on power, 150rwkw on 12psi so slowly going over everything.

It would seem that it is not R&R due to AFM maxing out, in 3rd the AFM was reading 4.12v when the jolt occurred, in 2nd I was able to read 4.80v without any jolt. Do not believe it is the coilpacks, the hesitation is very different from failing coil(s)