lench

Can't 100% confirm that, but my mechanic said it was within in spec with what the service manual says (guessing 15 degrees?)

not heaps experienced with this, but i've had a mech put the timing light on it and told me it was fine ran ECUtalk with the consult cable and it seems that the timing is between 11 and 15 BTDC on idle

thanks, i'll give that a go tonight! I've also pumped some compressed air into the actuator, it starts to move at 5psi, fully open by 14psi (tested it to 20) seemed to move ok, but i'll check the flapper as well

So I've been chasing problems for a while now, but this one has me at a dead end. Either way, I've currently got my car running on wastegate pressure (vacuum line from turbo outlet to wastegate actuator, bottom pipe has been plugged up) so i'm running .5bar steady, but when it gets to around 4500-5000, the boost spikes suddenly to to 1 bar. Currently running: Stock turbo. Stock wastegate actuator. Stock Intercooler. Stock Bov/recirc valve Brand new 3" exhaust (but was doing the same thing on the original stock exhaust, just at .75bar instead of 1 bar, pretty much running on R&R) All vacuum lines pre-throttle body and recirc/BOV have been replaced. (essentially a stock car minus the exhaust) I've checked for boost and exhaust leaks, which is another dead-end Anyone have any ideas on what to try next?

So this saga is still going on. Taken it to two separate mechanics, both said that it 'seems' fine.. (despite the fact it cant even get close to the rev limiter in 2nd) Ran a boost leak test using my puny ryobi tyre inflator, it held 5psi for about 20 seconds which appears to be ok.. it seems that there's something else going on. I've plugged in the consult cable and engine temps appear normal as far as i can tell. Also appears that i'm running .75 bar of boost now (up from .5). I changed the vac lines to and from the turbo and solenoid hoping that it was just a leaking line that was throwing everything off, still no joy (hiss/whistle noise cant be located with soap and water on any of the couplers) I'm starting to think now, no power past a certain rev range + hiss/whistle noise + higher boost.. could it be an exhaust leak? or am i just reading too much into this?

Before anyone asks, yes i've done the usual searches but I couldnt find anything definitive Background: Stock Rb25det NEO. standard intake, exhaust, boost and ecu. Engine shuddering or hitting fuel cut whenever WOT and high boost (bucking like a mechanical bull), other than that, it ran fine. boosted down low ok, seems to run smooth(ish). didnt run rich, was getting on average about 450k's per tank Replaced spark plugs with NGK coppers (1.1mm). Car then had absolutely no torque down low, would backfire constantly when cold or after WOT (which was necessary to get the friggin thing to move) and wouldn't rev over 5000rpm. It felt like it hit Rich and Retard. No codes were thrown I noticed that the boost gauge was reading a little high after the plug change, and found a vacuum line from the charcoal canister had frayed and cracked causing a vacuum leak. Replaced this and boost reading went back to normal. I then replaced the Airflow sensor (2nd hand from wreckers), Coilpacks (splitfires), Coilpack lead (Genuine) and Sparkplugs (NGK BKR6EIX-11). This made a HUGE difference. the old coilpacks were likely from the factory and were just producing a weak spark. Reset the ECU, still ran rich when cold (but not as rich), low-down torque came back but still cant rev over 5000rpm (feels like the engine just goes back to the R&R state) It does backfire a little when cold or after WOT (more like a few pops instead of a full blown backfire). Still no codes thrown Does the ECU lock out the top 2000 RPM when its 'learning'? or is it something else? What should I be looking at next? O2 Sensor? Replace/check all Vacuum and Intake lines? Cam angle sensor? Really running out of ideas here

Hi all, tried running a search but couldn't find anything definitive, but how do you remove the A and B/C pillar trim in the R34? is it a series of clips? or is it stuck on there with glue/tape? I'm just hoping not to snap anything and have rattling panels for the rest of it's life

sooooo im looking at ROTA grids.. (yeah yeah but im too povo for TE37's and the stockies are looking a bit tired) which would fit better on a 34 GTT without flared or rolled guards? 18x8.5 +30 or 18x8.5 + 44? just looking for a good fitment without any scraping/rubbing/stretching/modifying (i've tried looking back through all the threads but i cant seem to come up with a simple answer which would fit) edit: just found a post from 2006 that was selling a set of LMGT4's which looked alright (18x8.5 +30 and 18x9.5 +38 if anyone was wondering) might see about upgrading the rears

might be up for this, i havent taken the 'long' way down to the southern highlands in a while Mine typically lives in the car so you wont be the only one with one

Hi All, Just trying to find out if anyone else has had issues using whiteline upper and lower control arm bushes? I've had a knock in my rear diff for a while and i've only just had the chance to get it up on the hoist and take a look the car had the handbrake up and the clutch pulled out repeatedly and you could definitely see play in these areas. anyone else had a similar issue with new bushes? (under 5000k's)

sweet thanks i'll give them a call

seems like its a common thing to happen, but does anyone know where to source a hinge for the centre console? it looks like a flimsy bit of plastic so im sure i can substitute it for something else, but i'd prefer to keep it OEM if possible

Hi guys, just looking to offload some stuff I no longer need. Pickup from the Inner West would be preferred, but I might be able to ship some of the smaller items OEM orange front and side indicators, no cracks - $60 for both pairs Genuine Nissan "Skyline" Badge for rear bar (new in packaging) - $30 NGK Spark Plugs BKR6ES-11 Spark Plugs x6 - $20 Front and Rear Disc Rotors for R34 GTT - $100 30mm thick on the front, 18mm on the rear (according to this thread, they have plenty of meat left) no warping, no grooves, would still be using these if i didnt upgrade to DBA slotted rotors pics can be provided if needed

hey all, as the title suggests, im looking at getting a set of bilsteins for my GTT I'm using SydneyKid's old group-buy as a guide on what i should be looking at but im hoping to do it a bit at a time (starting with shocks and re-doing some worn out bushes) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/88141-r34-gtt-bilstein-whiteline-suspension/ so would the B6's be ok running at stock height with stock springs?

Hi All, Just wondering, where can i get my hands on a power steering return hose for an rb25det neo? (R34 GTT) anyone have a part number or a place i can get one made up? Cheers

i can vouch for this place, freakin awesome pizzas might come depending on the date

yeah i saw that one behind the ABS but it's next to impossible to feed through (even with small hands)! i'll try to give it a go but if not it looks like im running a wire through the drivers side thanks guys!

for the guys with switches in the cabin: where did you run the cable? i cant seem to find a 'proper' way through the firewall on the passenger side ..unless you fed it along the firewall to the drivers side and then behind the dash just trying to keep it as clean as possible where it wont foul anything

so is this still going ahead? or still being planned? i'd be keen to bring some strobist gear but my GTT aint the prettiest one out there

thanks for the tips guys whacking the alt was just a tip an NRMA guy gave me years ago (guessing its a last resort thing?) Ill see about fitting a new battery and adding some extra grounding

just did then. the car has been sitting still overnight so nothing could have shifted around (loose wiring) and it seemed fine when it came to test it. the voltage when started was at 14.5v only thing i can think of is when it happens again, pull over and give the alt a whack

Hi all Just after some advice on something thats been an intermittant problem on my 34 GTT out of nowhere (meaning i havnt touched anything) the power seems to drop when the brakes are applied, or even more obvious when the indicators are used. in some cases im just sitting at the lights and everything goes dead i know theres a short somewhere.. but where do i begin?

was a great night, so good to finally come along to one of these and check out some of your cars sorry if i cut anyone off at the start of the cruise i had no idea which way we were going (i was the guy in the white GTT)

i might be up for this, looking for an excuse to get out of something else

heres hoping the weather just blows over