Aleckr33

I think it was 3mm.. not sure. Bunnings only had one thickness for all perspex..

Ok then, Thanks. I will book it in ASAP. And i left the workshop not knowing that the car was knocking, because i had a slipping clutch i obviously didn't give the car a hard time. And even after i changed it, knock levels were nice and low.. But now since iv changed the Plenum gasket the car does feel a lot better but with high knock readings.

Hey everyone, Im reading knock levels of 90 - 105 on my Power FC... Only on full throttle i see these high readings (2 occasions, 98 first time, 105 second time with engine light flashing both times) Injector duty at 85 - 90% MAX. Car is a Skyline R33 GTST. with the following mods Unopened RB25DET Power FC Z32 afm ATR43G3 .82 IW turbo Nismo 555cc injectors Unknown Front mount.. decent size though.. Tomei fuel pump The car is tuned at 256rwkw with a slipping clutch, left the workshop with a slipping clutch because i couldn't afford a new clutch at the time, changed the clutch at another workshop about a month later... the car didn't feel right.. I found an intake leak underneath my stock plenum not long after i changed clutch... Gasket was shot, changed that. Now im very happy with the car! much smoother and pulls much harder throughout the rev range. Now my question is, now that iv fixed both these problems, is it possible my car is making more power than 256rwkw? and would that explain the high knock levels? Should i take it back to tuner? Cheers.

I'll be there along with mates and there skylines.

It looks like the older model dual ports. I have mine 100% plumbed back into intake and no problem at all. Remember, skyline's come out of factory 100% plumbed back.

im interested to find this out... my clutch grabs late and will grind sometimes when i take off from 1st. It started after i installed a 5 puk brass button.

ahh i see, i don't think you can make that bov 100% plumbed back mate...

http://www.turbosmartonline.com/images/2775.jpg

Go here, http://www.turbosmar...index.php?id=47 The part you will need is a 'BOV Port Blanking Plug' Model number: TS-0205-3103 It's better plumbed back if you run a stock ECU. Buy the plug, unscrew the trumpet, screw the plug on. Done. Autobarn have these plugs.

I feel a lot more throttle response, the pod is cooler after a long drive, but i think i am suffocating it... The car feels like its lost a bit of power on full throttle, so on the weekend i'll drill a hole down to the front guard and set up a custom air intake so it can get all the air it needs.

Tempe tires did mine for $40 a guard.

Well, just finished my airbox tonight.. i couldn't find tinted perspex at any bunnings store in sydney so I chose to use clear perspex instead. I think tinted does look better though. I had to make 2 holes because iv got a return flow intercooler setup. Thank you Adam!! (WYTSKY) Cheers, Aleck

That is high, normal temperature is around 75 - 90 C. I don't think it would be your FMIC causing the problem, I'd be checking the radiator. Give it a good flush and see what happens. How's your clutch fan?

Nice work! Im going to make an attempt at this at the end of the week.

How did you get done? RBT or did something silly?

Thanks for replies.. Grinding noise seems to be gone now... weird BUT, still have the whining noise at full boost sometimes. I get loss of power and black smoke out the exhaust ONLY when i hear the whining noise, then a little idle dipping after i slow down. I think it's a boost leak.... What do you's think? I'll check all my piping and tighten everything up tomorrow. Oh and the car is still making normal boost..... Just feels very low on power along with that annoying whine.

Hmmm i always thought it was my clutch fan making that humming noise at idle... maybe it is my Gates timing belt. is it sort of like a 'whurrwhurrwhurrwhurrwhurr' noise?

Any help? Should i change the gearbox oil?? It wasn't done at clutch change.

BUMP! GTR BOV SOLD. NEW ITEMS FOR SALE! -Xtreme heavy duty organic clutch with pressure plate, good for 200rwkw, upgraded to an NPC clutch to hold over 200rwkw+ ... Still plenty of meat left - $200 ono -Used genuine nissan clutch pivot, good condition - $15

iv got 4x used r33 standard disc rotors for sale. pm for details. In sydney too.

Hey guys, i had the following installed today Npc 5 puk button clutch Nismo pivot ball Brand new thrust bearing Here's the problem... At most times in first gear or reverse just as im about to take off, i get a grinding noise coming from the gearbox area. However driving the car is normal at speed. The other problem is the gearbox is whining under full throttle.. Im also down on power by a fair bit. Flywheel has been machined, iv done a search but couldnt find the answer to my problem. Could it be a diff issue? The grinding issue started after the clutch change. The whining noise started when my OLD clutch started to slip and is still there after clutch change. Can anyone help me?

Hopefully I'll be there, my car should be running by then

HKS EVC EZ II SOLD. RB25 AFM SOLD. RB25 INJECTORS SOLD.

Im not saying anything bad about anything or anyone, i just didn't research enough on cats lol, my own fault

Pressure test was done, turned out the ceramic catco cat was holding back about 20rwkw. It is now gutted lol. After that Yavuz put it back on the dyno.... Results were going good till the clutch started to slip at around 220rwkw, got a bit of grip, then slipped again at 260rwkw so he stopped immediately after that. Car will be going back after i put a NPC 5 Puk button. boost was at 19psi peak, drop off to 18. dyno sheet isn't very clear, sorry. On the right side is the NM of torque.