komdogg

R33 gts/ gts-t side indicators. Used. Good condition. Comes with some assorted brand new genuine Nissan intake manifold gaskets. For photos see: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/beldon/auto-body-parts/r33-skyline-side-indicators/1062491303 $20 make an offer. Located in Perth Northern suburbs.

Yeah you can do that and it's cheaper. Basically it involves playing with mufflers. I have a custom magnaflow crossflow muffler in mine. Also using cross flow mufflers is good without any real restriction. Having a good mid muffler and an end muffler though would easily make it below legal limits (so basically you'd be making a stock style exhaust just all shiny and larger diameter. Otherwise it would be good if someone could make a varex type system but in a mid muffler with a recessed control box covered by a bolt on panel or something. That way it would be near impossible to tell. Especially if your exhaust is tucked up nice and high like mine is. Probably dreaming there though If you're still keen I can post pics?

Don't need to stuff anything in it. When I bought my car it had an aftermarket jap exhaust. The exhaust was 3 inch cat back with a mid muffler and an end muffler, and the thing was so quiet that unless it was dead silent around you couldn't even tell if the car was on. Was no louder than my dad's Hyundai when it was being floored either. So it can be done, just need to choose the right mufflers. Just make sure your mods are clean and legal. I.e. NO CABLE TIES, 3 points of mounting for pod filters (they dont need to be covered in WA), make sure the tread is under the car (again in WA poke is allowed as long as the tread is under the car not laterally outside the guards), have your mud guards on, use a dual port bov. This way, even if you do get a yellow, as I did in my old silvia, it's a matter of 15 min of work on the car to make it pass pits first time.

I got my catback custom made, it's full 3 inch 316 grade stainless twin shotgun and used x-force 3 inch dump/front and cat. catback including muffler was $1300 and the fitment is out of this world, it clears everything, better than any straight fit exhaust on the market. so if you take that and add say a justjap dump/front and cat in your looking at around $1600-1700 total drive away price (including modding dump/front for flow/fitment if necessary). Another bonus is that it sounds amazing, without being too loud at idle (it's legal by about 3db lol!) but when you floor it, it hits this point and just explodes, setting off house alarms haha. So I pretty much have the best of both worlds. I have been through RBTs and never even got any comments or second looks from the cops. So basically what I'm trying to say is go custom, you will not regret it. Best money I spent on my car without a doubt. Another theory I have is that cops hate cannon mufflers so go with something else. Shotguns, straight pipes, normal mufflers whatever floats your boat as long as it's not a cannon.

ok done. 4ga from alternator active terminal to the fuse box, also left the stock wire in place as it's integrated into a loom so didnt feel like splicing into my nice stock uncut harness. stock ground left in; it goes from block just behind the alternator to chassis (alternator grounds to block through its bracket) and added an extra 4ga ground from the back of the alternator to the chassis. should be more than enough I reckon? I may go back later and up the stock ground from block just behind alternator > chassis with a 0ga if you think its necessary or I'm in the mood for some overkill. Tomorrow going into the boot. Will be upgrading the fusebox > battery positive terminal cable to a 0ga. and a 0ga and a 4ga to ground from the negative.

oh right. thought you meant 4 gauge from alternator charging to battery in the boot if it's just from alternator to fuse box in engine bay and another from alternator to ground I'll probably just 0 gauge them both. better to be safe than sorry.

yeah you're right. Can't believe I didn't see that haha its so obvious. and here i was hoping i finally wouldn't have to run a huge ass cable all the way through my car =[

APPARENTLY, from what I've found out recently (haven't done it myself yet but will do soon). Hicas ecu controls speed sensitive power steering, this makes sense as speedo signal wire goes from gearbox>speedo>ecu>hicas ecu, as far as I know. This was told to me by haltech as the reason they gave for their ecu's not being able to adjust speed sensitive power steering is that only load switch is controlled by ecu while the rest is done by the rear hicas ecu. Can anyone else verify? so looks like you have to leave the hicas ecu in. this presents a problem, a constant hicas waring light on the dash, but if you pull the globe, since the same warning is for power steering level, you lose that, which is annoying! because I hate when little things like that don't work. check this http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313119 it has the hicas wiring diagram in it!!!!!!!! also this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/128604-tomei-hicas-lock-kit/ it explains how the tomei lock kit works (roughly) other threads say cut the green wire with white stripe so I'm not sure which one to cut? from the diagram http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/01/hicas-delete.html this thread says cut green with white stripe AND claims that it will still allow the hicas light to come on to warn you any other ecu functions that use it EXCEPT hicas. Which is basically the perfect scenario. Im still considering Tomei kit though as according to this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=55225 it looks like 2 wires need to be cut? let me know if you try any of these and how it affects the power steering fluid light coming on and if it affects the feel of your steering (heavier?)! since the idea is to have the hicas and warning light disabled without affecting any other functions! if we solve this we can end this constant debate once and for all

oh and yeah forgot to mention I use an inline ANL fuse holder with 300amp ANL fuse between battery and distribution block to the amps and cap

yep. 4200watt max altogether. I've had this system in my old car for well over a year so I know pretty much what I gotta do in regards to grounding. But I'm still going to up the number of ground points from what I had before. It's going to be a 0ga and a 4ga ground from the battery in the boot to the chassis (big bolts, paint sanded off) with the 3x grounds from the sound system (amps and cap) going to a distribution block to 2x 0ga grounds once again big bolts with paint sanded off. In regards to the cap I thought it was about ~1 farad per 1000watts as well but when I was buying the guys at the audio shop thought 2 farads should be enough. To be honest it doesn't get hot or anything and when I put it in my old setup it stopped the lights flickering when the bass hit. 3000watt mono is class D and 1200watt 4 channel is class AB. Also this system is a bit of a downsized version to what I had previously (8 speakers before, plus 2 subs, now is going to be 6 speakers, plus 1 sub). Don't see why I really need to upgrade grounds in the engine bay as the current goes straight from the battery in the boot through the amps to the ground? And the battery itself is well grounded in the boot. So there should be no excess current going through any of the cars electrical systems. And the optima battery should deliver a nice even flow no worries. Should I be looking at RMS or peak power when choosing a capacitor? Would the amount of current drawn by the actual speakers have an impact on this? When I've got the system cranking the cap never went below 12-13 volts so it should be fine I reckon? I'll post my install in this thread when I do it in the next week for comments/suggested improvements.

oh yeah my bad I was talking about size not red vs yellow top, I know I need yellow. Went to a battery shop and sized one up; a D35 yellow and looks like it'll just fit. Also have a 2 farad capacitor. and as for total current the fuses add up to 250amps, so I'd say 0ga is a good idea.

D31 wont fit even on its side. Max size is 200x240x200 in an r33. D35 fits by just 2mm so it's looking like I'll just bite the bullet and go that. Ground will be 0 gauge from battery > distribution block > 3x 4 gauge ground points 2x amps and capacitor will be 4 gauge > distribution block > 2x 0 gauge ground points. This way wont have to drill any new holes in chassis and can all be grounded to big thick bolts. should be no worries.

Just wondering what type of bettery people would reccomend for an r33 gtst series 2. I want it to go in the stock location in the boot. Currently looking at Repco "ultra-high performance" or whatever its called 390cca, Braille no weight b2618. Probably don't want to spend as much as an Optima costs right now. Are the braille's any good for daily use? It says best for dual battery applications but is there actually a difference in batteries? Car is a daily driver with all ancillaries (aircon, biiiig sound system, etc). Can the Braille go on its side? I know Repco one can't though it still fits fine, just want to make sure I have something with a sturdy construction and so on. Opinions appreciated

Ok so I'm thinking about getting the defi advance zd club sports package plus a boost gauge to plug into it and got a few questions for those with experience. How does the zd tap into rpm and speedo signals? Where is the speedo wire in an r33 gtst? Where does it run to, from and through what parts of the car does it run? If I'm using an ecutalk box or nistune to correct my speedo signal (for big rims, diff ratio etc) and assuming that the zd taps off the speedo wire, will it read the corrected speed, or stay with the incorrect original speed? I know that the ecutalk box plugs into consult, but how does it modify the speedo signal if the speedo doesnt go through the ecu? or does one of the consult wires go straight to the speedo? Basically what I want, is to be able to have my defi zd hooked up, and to have it display the corrected speed on both the speedometer and the zd display. One more thing; if you buy say a boost gauge to plug into the advance control unit, does it come with the boost sensor? Or do they expect you to fork out another 200 bucks for the sensor, because that would make the price about 500 bucks per gauge, which is ridiculous. Hope this is the right section, couldn't find anything else regarding electronics. Cheers

just wondering if r33 gtr rear seats and rear trims will fit in my r33 gts-t? or are they different? im looking for personal experience here. cheers ps i've searched and there are plenty of threads on front seats but couldnt find anything on rear

Ok first of all I have serched this plenty and while theres a ton of threads on installing a lock bar there is none on how to delete the entire system including the ecu. I am planning to do this in my car (R33 GTS-T Series 2) and have heard that if you remove he hicas ecu it messes up your power steering unless you loop a particular wire in the harness or add a resistor or something (no one seems to know anything exactly just all vague info). So my question is when I have removed my hicas rack and installed the lock bar, and removed the hicas ecu, what do I have to do in order to have my steering unaffected?

Bump

hey i saw that there was a group buy on here a while ago from ultimateautotrim did anyone participate in this/does anyone have any seats trimmed with their products? (post pics please) i wanted to get my r32gtr seats trimmed in black leather with a black perforated leather insert but just want to be sure the trim kits are good. cheers