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Everything posted by GTRgeoff
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So is that price per set or for the lot??
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and so I'd say are all the rest of us
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Dave I was a big GPLer and played online heaps. I even used the FF mod and all the updated graphics. It was, and still is one of the best. With the FF it is no longer as hard, but still the toughest. Porsche was interesting but they are just too contrived compared to GPL and GTR. Find more info for racing online and the V8 mod download at http://www.start.ausorc.com/
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So therefore you could by association label anyone with dreams of doing more or better or having nice things a wanker.......
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I'll put some pics up later of SAUVic supporting Giant's GTR32 with spare parts.
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Troy, when you are on a multi day tour you are often allocated accomodation. We were slow on our warmdown and the only bedspace left was a double bed. Having just raced over 250 km that day we were glad for any place to sleep.
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Cheers Alan. I find that position is critical and fit up to within 1mm. There's really 2 types of seats, the flat ones and the curved ones. The flat ones will deform a little in the middle when you sit on them. I prefer the curved type, or specifically the Selle Italia type based on the Turbo. My all time favourite is the Flite titanium railed jobbie with a nice smooth leather surface that allows me to just slip into the bucket. The titanium absorbs and attenuates road shock. I also have a Fiziik which is flat on the mountain bike and is not as nice for my shape and a something O2 on the TT bike which is pretty good and similar to the Flite.
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BIG NEWS Duncan Handley makes the podium!!
GTRgeoff replied to Beer Baron's topic in Motorsport Discussion & Builds
Woohoo. Well done mate. -
I have 3 roadbikes (and a spare frame) and the mountain bike if you wanna get started training. Trading post is the cheapest for a bike. I'll help you select something comfortable that won't blow the budget. Or just borrow my $7500 race bike I won't be using it for a while. Seriously, I have a good spare ally bike that I can rerig. Pedalling is a 360 degree motion, but it takes time to develop the pedal stroke. Best done on small (fast pedalling) gears, maintaining around 100rpm. I use a computer with a cadence sensor. Eventually you will get that nice smooth stroke you can impress your friends with by riding one legged. My first recommendations are to focus on comfort. There are 3 points of contact. Hands, seat and feet. Hands: make sure you use some nice gloves. They not only pad the hands but will protect in a fall. Thers are some good gel ones that absorb the vibration that Vic crap roads will generate. Look for something with a piece of terry or absorbent material on the back for wiping the sweat. Change hand position frequently to keep from stiffening and getting sore. Every 5 minutes is a good idea. A nice fit that gives room to move. Too tight and the hands go pins and needles in no time. Feet: Comfortable shoes are a must. Not too tight or loose, not too heavy either as they are moving a fair bit. Toe straps and clips cut circulation but they are cheap. Clipless pedal systems abound and can really be a godsend if yoy have an accident or unsteady moment. The classic Look style is the oldest and one of the best for ease of use and setup, but are crap for walking. I've tried them all (as a guy who part owned 3 bike shops and my mate still has 3 shops) and keep going back to the look for road. Wiggle your toes regularly. Velcro straps and adjustable closures can cost more but allow you to soften and harden your contact as you need to. Seat: First, a good set of shorts with a comfortable chamois is vital. No jocks, minimal seams and a little barrier cream or savlon to put a barrier between your skin and the salty sweat buildup in the chamois will help prevent chaffing. Chaffing lets you know you are in contact with the seat. REALLY!! I have no problem with lycra, it gives the best fit so don't be bashful. Your seat is important and must fit your butt. If you are like me, leather is the best but needs to be broken in. Big doughy gel things seem soft and comfy but just block circulation and are actually uncomfortable on really long rides. Some good seats have gel inserts and can be nice. The only way to condition ass and seat is to ride. The seat must be dead level as well or you will slide on it and stretch and damage that soft tender groin skin. Get a spirit level and set it on the nose and tail of the saddle and adjust until flat. Plenty of people keep moving the nose down to stop the pain of contact. Little do they realise they are just making it worse and making their legs work harder to stay on the seat. Next installment, bike fit and position and those stupid aero bars.
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I'll try to help with some coaching tips. I used to coach the NT junior development team, which was part of the deal for Shane Bannan (current national cycling coach) coaching me. I raced with the likes or Robbie McEwen (and won) and even shared a double bed with the little guy on one tour. Also picked up a national silver time trial medal doing 50km in 2:02. Even higher achievemant was riding the 30 km from home to work on St Kilda road in 37 min Nothing too intense, just the comfort and condition side so you can make a good ride of it.
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HICAS Locked, Alignment Question
GTRgeoff replied to C_DawG's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Don't even need a 4 wheel alignment, but a rear alignment will do. If it's one of mine or similar it will be fine as it matches the HICAS unit for position. -
Cheers all. Going to make this one stick, run it in properly and get my money from the stealing bastards. Painkillers?? Currently sponsored by Panadeine Forte, Mersyndol and Tamarzipan with a little Tramadol thrown in. Imagine if I get pulled over for a drug test. Another evil import driving danger putting us ALL at risk. No way I'm letting you guys near me on the RAAF base. I'll end up in the lockup and you'll ogle the cute RAAFie chicks that work there. Better stronger faster.........
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Done this a couple of times. Only took about 8 hours all up but I'll give it a miss this year. Must do with friends, otherwise it's a slog. I was doing my Sunday 100km ride in 3 hours at the time though
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at spear tackling the the brisbosaurus I should be about 8 weeks recovering, but I wanna try for the record so I can do a fitness test, get medically upgraded and quit Thanks for all the support. People laugh when I call SAU my extended family, but it's true :grouphug:
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Mmmmmm on good drugs. Keyboard blurry and hands won't do stuff. Be good to have an end to the pain.
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Turbos which keep spinning long after the car stops
GTRgeoff replied to Bass Junky's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
That all makes sense to me so I won't dispute it except one bit. As far as the BB part count goes, I assume each bearing cartridge is a single part, where if you said moving parts it would be different. -
Well team, I saw my back mechanic yesterday (professor of Neurosurgery at Monash or somewhere) and he recommends a long overdue rebuild. I'll be into Epworth early on Friday morning next week for a discectomy to stop the most damaged disc from pinching the nerve that controls my left leg. The latest MRI shows a pretty bad impingement and explains why I keep falling over and losing control of my left leg in right hand corners in the car. I will also get a spacer to stop the upper vertebrae crushing down on the disc as well. I'll be in Epworth for the whole weekend and then transferred by ambulance to RAAF Williams near Laverton to our Military hospital there. I believe I will be in hospitals for up to a week befcore coming home. The deterioration over the past few months and particularly the last 2 weeks is due to the support muscles crying enough and just shutting down, so there is little support for the area. I now need a cane to walk to stop the nerve pinching. This is all a result of poor medical care and penny pinching by defence to save a measly $15K for surgery and a bit of paperwork. The turds have subjected me to at least 6 months more suffering than absolutely necessary by taking a wait and see if it settles down approach. The good news is I should be able to start doing social stuff more reliably and get back on the track. Most importantly, I should be able to be medically upgraded, fight the Army kicking me out and save my pension that I qualify for soon which will be $100K cash on discharge and $20K a year for life. They stand to take this off me as well if I get medically discharged. So all in all it is a bit of a relief, but I get to stay in Vic a bit longer.
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Difference between 1 & 2 piece rotors?
GTRgeoff replied to writeoff's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Rice value SK? So how many extra rwkw can you say you have? How much will the guys be able to outbrake the evil commonwhores by? Sorry, just on some particularly good painkillers at the moment..... -
Replacing Rotors on R33
GTRgeoff replied to shif_tea's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I'm with Merlin. I use the RDA and they work fine with me caning them at the track. Just warm up and cool down properly and they will be fine. Get the slotted ones on front if you can, and it should only be around $560 for a full set with plain rears if needed. -
I've seen a twin fan setup on ylw3tr2's R34 that is schmick. It's off a falcon and seems to work well. He uses his own homemade controller (of course)
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Turbos which keep spinning long after the car stops
GTRgeoff replied to Bass Junky's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Well the bearing will add extra mass that resists acceleration, either positive or negative. This in in the form of the rollers/balls (depending on construction) and the inner race over the shaft. I have seen needle rollers in a different low speed application that run on the shaft itself. Plain bearing application is well advanced, and the shaft basically runs on hydrodynamic oil pressure without contacting metal. The bearing metal is there as a soft surface for when the parts touch, which it will eventually from time to time as the bearing ages. It's a choice of longevity, but plains last years and many miles when well cared for. -
Not making one Troy? Sorry I don't have one.
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And one final thing. Buy or borrow a timing light to ensure you get the timing correct. Sometimes the mark can be a little off. The mech should do this anyway but it can't hurt to "remind" him. I prefer to use a short plug lead between the number 1 coil pack and plug. I agree though, mine is the same with HKS gears but I'm polishing my front cover for some bling.
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Turbos which keep spinning long after the car stops
GTRgeoff replied to Bass Junky's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Shouldn't be. The stickiness (stiction) would be from the seals. The bearings would be a little loose for thermal expansion and oil space. -