GTRgeoff

Sorry to hear mate. Time to get a 'line and join the power of the dark side. Factory provided Aussie cars suck.

They can fail if pressed with new bearings. Not a pretty sight.

Casey, good effort, and welcome. hope to see the car soon.

Rod interested in the track rims, in fact I think I'll take them, and the pod filters. I'm in South Morang (Epping)but would like to come take a look and pick up. Geoff

Do a search. New about $120

We went last year.

Nowhere near as expensive. I have the tailight replaced, the new bumper is here waiting for paint and fitting and the car is still sporting track spec ally sheet. About $300 to fix and I didn't miss a lap. My problem was not seeing the flames, just saw the heat shimmer as I rolled around but that is expected after some hot laps. I was in the helmet, pulled way down into the seat and was watching for cars coming as turn 3 is 180kmh for me and faster for others. Flaggies didn't help with confusing flag signals. Ultimately no real danger, just cosmetic damage.

Not your favourite place Chris?

As seen in SK's pic, the exhaust wheel is covered by the CAS, and the effort to put one on the inlet side is prohibitive. No-one makes one for RB25DET as it has the VCT.

And where are you watching the super taxis from today? TDF is better than F1 anyday.

Chris, rears won't fit 33GTSt, but fronts might. The lower attachment is a u bracket and not a bush fitting.

IRISH, since snowie is too rude to respond, anyone can just turn up and spectate. I might as I won't be entering at this stage.

Variable cam timing (VCT) for the inlet cam, switched using oil pressure. I'm thinking a piece of mdf with a hole in it and a heat gun and the original cover may do the job. Use the original as the base, cut away what is not able to fit. Start with gradually heating the area you want to deform then lay it over the base. Use the mdf with the hole (or a thick wool lined set of riggers gloves) to form the clear cover over the bulge. Basically there is nothing to see with a RB25 so why bother?

Good effort mate. Pity the fittings are swaged on- I used speedflow stuff for my tt upgrade custom hoses. If anyone does get the urge to cut SS hoses, the best way is to wrap tightly with electrical tape, then position the location of the cut close to the jaws of a vice to hold it, then cut with a fine hacksaw blade. I go to HIS Hose in Somerton and the fittings are about $10 each. Just a question with the engine adaptor. Is that a spin on (filter replacement) type or do you remove the existing plate?

I think Paul in WA (GTST VSPEC ?) is running a good pump.

Nick, the collar is needed to extend the drive flats for the oil pump in early RB26 engines (R32 I believe this is limited to). I've seen the wear marks on the pump drive and understand the concerns. Yours should be good. Remember the RB26 is pretty much a complete engine out to do the oil pump. What else are you planning? Why change the pump? are you having pressure problems?

OK here is the vid. Doesn't take long (this was coming to turn 4 but the hose blew at the start finish line at PI) and can do some serious cosmetic damage. Forget about wanting flames!! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...&cat=500&page=1

Easiest check is to look under the back and see if the diff cover is finned and has the active control hose feeds in from the right side of the diff. Mine has the sticker, thought nothing of it when I bought it but decided to find out. Saw the differences in Pauls article and thought it was worth checking out but alas no A-LSD so the sticker is fake

Welcome Pete. Club racing is alive and well in SAU Vic. Go to our section for a look.

Try a hole saw. That will leave just a small, fairly smooth rotating part protruding.

OK here are the pics of my mishap. http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/pi20040919...PI200409192.htm Discussion here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...68&page=2&pp=40

Do you mind if I take a look, Interested in buying. I'm in Melbourne as well.

I was more after 2 sets for both seats. Cheers.