GTRgeoff

Not in my office environment

Interested. and sounds good. Will need to take a look over the next month, but not rushing. Expect a decision by end of June for purchase

Glowing red is around 650-700 degrees C. White is 900

GTST, none taken, and sorry to come across as if I was. I know what you are getting at though, but the TT really changed the entire sound from idle to further up the revs. It was already pretty good but after it just transformed and it confirmed the reason that particuler note comes from the 26. Plus mine also is a 2.6 in capacity now so that is not a huge factor in sound, but it has improved off boost torque due to increased compression. The 25DE is a fair bit louder with the same exhaust as I had the opportunity to hear when I bought the Trust. I did the swap right away off the other car which got the stock cat back and it went from a sharp loud bark on the DE to a sweet deep rumble on the DET. BTW the auto is stock except for the zorst and is an absolut POS power wise. Any boost over 10psi and it cuts hard. Any under 8 and it is a big doughy mess.

OK to correct this at least a 2.5mm spacer/washer is required. The upside of not having the cover on is never resetting the timing advance no matter how often the CAS comes off With the vibration, it turned out to be the harmonic balancer. It had started moving around and even tightening the bolt more did little. Ultimately the woodruff key had started rounding off and is a crank out repair so I used loctite bearing mount which will prevent movement. The vibration is completely gone. Clear cam covers have only ever been made for RB26 to my knowledge.

Sure mate, and you compared this to a handy RB25DETT just to tell me I'm wrong. Thought you'd appreciate an answer from someone who has done the conversion and speaks from experience, but obviously you didn't need help. Yep, up close with the bonnet up the solid lifters cause a fair bit of mechanical rattling, but even after yesterdays cruise with variously configured GTR's to listen to from inside the nice quiet Soarer there is a distinct difference between singles and twins (and the luxobarge gave me plenty of chances to get passed )). A lot to do with the various exhaust systems as well with similar single or twin configurations. As far as the cams go, I fitted a set of GTR cams and found the top had a bit more power at the expense of low rpm, but it wasn't a different note. In fact, with a blind comparison I'd suggest none of us could tell the difference. Most well worked GTR's that stick in the mind with a great note are bolted together with good quality kit, including the exhaust. I'd suggest most are just a little too overawed by the whole GTR "thing". I'm no detractor of the GTR, in fact I expect to be buying a GTR33 next month to take the garage to 5 slots, but there is a lot of "it's a GTR so it's too cool". Compare the Fujitsubo Jasma system on my track car to after the TT conversion and it changed dramatically, the only difference the TT setup I fabricated. Then I put a 3.25 Trust Jasma system on my auto 25t and it's a lot different again, but the NA 33 that it came off made it sound a bit coarse. Next I'll put the 3" front pipe on the auto and I bet it changes again. Marcus, it dropped compression on a couple of cylinders at 5psi boost in second after I installed some injectors that I stupidly didn't check for flow rate. Looks like another rebuild before that ride mate, but it was nice until it lost power.

Since converting the RB25 to a GTR34 twin turbo setup, the difference is in the fact that the 2 turbos separate the pulse of the front and rear 3 cylinders. They don't merge until after the firewall. It was very noticeable, especially with another 25 to compare to in the garage. I have the HKS style split pipes as well so it is a bit louder, but it all bolted straight up to the single cat location So while some of these other points are slight contributors, it's mainly the turbo configuration. And, It sounds PHAT as hell

Try to get the tension about the same on the tensioner side as the idler and you are about right.

It's a little cartoon. I hear the gear changes are so long they have to provide an in flight movie...... Imagine if it had a slick box.................................

Do a search mate. there is a thread detailing the best quality filter. One of the Jap ones, but not the common HKS. Might be Trust.

Something I discussed with a member recently. It is based on the Engine manual detail. What I didn't see above is the need to remove the plugs to ensure minimum load against turning. This is a preferred way of ensuring the belt tension is good on the non adjusted side between the exhaust cam wheel and the crank drive pulley. You can do this safely as the belt tension will still be pretty good and shouldn't jump teeth. The tension is then actually set on the belt by using the allen key to bring the adjuster onto the belt with about 20 kg of side tension. What I do is fit the belt with all marks correct, then fit the harmonic balancer and bolt and tighten slightly to tension the non adjusted side so there is about 5mm deflection on the longest length of belt when wiggled gently, then bring the adjuster in on the other side until there is similar tension that side and nip up the nut. Too tight on the cam belt and it will sing a bit, too loose and the consequences can be disastrous so the belt should feel firm, not hard or slack. Unfortunately that is the closest I can describe as it would need special tools to determine the tension exactly and the only avoidance is experience. Find a car recently done that has the cam wheels exposed and feel the tension by grabbing the belt between thumb and forefinger and wiggle slightly. This will give a feel for the right tension.

Every time you can drive it home is a good one........... Sorry to hear mate. You know the Vic whipping squad is awaiting your return.

Timbo, sorry to burst your bubble mate but with the mods you mentioned you will not achieve much better than the 6.0/6.1 sec factory specs of the standard manual 'line. When the factory goes out to determine the 0-100 time they spend many hours with a professional test driver about the size of a 13 year old, with minimum fuel in the tank and possibly all ancillaries removed from the boot, and they practice until perfect. Then they run a small number of sprints to 100 and take an average. All factories do this. Auto magazines constantly compare the factory time against the best they can do in real world conditions, often with a passenger, and never come close. Now maybe you can improve a little with the new exhaust and a cat replacement pipe, but at the same time the extra power will make it harder not to slip into wheelspin. Then you will have to spend on engine management, a decent turbo, good rubber, suspension (not the rock hard Jap stuff) as the standard stuff is nasty for axle tramp, pineapples to allow some rear squat and a good yet forgiving organic clutch that will allow some slip without burning up. Given that a GTR does 4.7-4.9 factory figures you are looking at making some serious mumbo and just monstering it to get over the 5.0 second line. I have spent a fair bit of my life racing, and I think I'm fairly reasonable and consistent but I doubt my GTS25t track car would go under 5.0 even once the twin turbo setup is sorted with a target of 280rwkw. Guys I think even mildly modded we're a long way from mowing the 6.0 as easy as everyone thinks.

Vuster, 90% of the time on here is spent "filtering" so just ignore anything you prefer to. Other forums are far worse though. So that vid was done in a manual or an auto (did I miss something) as I saw the shift bizzo and the led screen with 6 gears and the little shift stick piccie. I'm guessing a manual. How is it to shift? I heard they were a bit sticky with that model Getrag.

BATMBL sells a different on for the R34GTT than the R32/33. So the answer would be no. This is a damn good price though for a stainless 3.25, and if I didn't already have one in mild I'd grab it. Good luck and hope it helps.

Too true. My crank after running number 3 big end was very sticky to turn. It was identified as bent and straightened by the machine shop and after torqueing up the girdle it was smooth as silk.

Thye weds look best with red mate..... MMMmmmm black with the black chin spoiler is good.

Al that's pretty good. Did it include sand blasting too. Yeah those ones on GTTR34's car look kinda understated for their size.

When we get a few with the game I'll set up a small league. We can hook up every couple of weeks for a race.

Keep the rex look and give me back my weds

Lookin' good. Thank god they didn't give them the "nostril" treatment.

Which will hopefully be good for the Sunday cruise

Ferni also ate 3rd gear ......... brrrrm crunch. Sorry mate.

Vuster that will sound great. Everyone deserves a nice sounding V8 in the garage. The only reason you can't come on the cruise coming up is it's members only for CAMS coverage, but membership is only $50 and I reckon you'd be an asset to the club, as long as certain videos dissappear never to be seen again. I think membership oin the day will be achievable too. As for the acceleration times, that's all well and good to talk mods but a fair bit has to be done to make a GTSt reliable and quick off the line, not the basic stuff as claimed. As they age the suspension is a little over the hill, and aftermarket suspension is generally too stiff for launches so it will wheelspin or bog. Then the exact revs and clutch control has to be mated to get the thing going quick unless it's an auto. The big V8s though have the torque without lag and power spiking to just mumbo away time after time. Parochialism is great but facing facts, a Skyline GTSt is not a great drag platform yet on the track it is very good (especially the R34). The GTR in stock form is even better but both can be equalised. I also think we can completely ignore the claims by the "street racers", whos behaviour the club does not condone, that think they wasted this and that. The other guy may not be trying or may back off and the only true test is drag or circuit. Anyway, gotta go finish putting Lexus badges on the soarer for that extra wank factor . Just won't have exhaust in time though for the weekend.

No point trying to engineer now Roy.....have a rest I have to say I was feeling concerned with the new goodies offered by Ford and the General but weight is still their enemy and not everyone is trying to street race, thank god. Prices are looking pretty good though. For ages they were overpriced and way underpowered but now, I'd be happy to have them in the garage as well as the current collection. After you guys are done with Calder maybe go for a squirt at a racetrack. Weds at Calder is fairly priced at $140-160 but Friday at Winton is about $100 for open practice. Otherwise a club membership is $50 and license is $83 As a point to note, at PI the GTR's were mid to low 1:50's but a couple were in the high 1:40's while the GTSt's were 1:58 to 2:03 depending on rubber, pretty much the same for the Soarers too.