GTRgeoff

Targa? Awesome, well better luck there then. If I'd been able to start leave earlier I'd come watch and maybe help out, but not until mid next month for about oh 14 months. Get Kel on the creatin and weights then. Can't put her to work unless she can bench a ferrari V8 block...... BTW the ultimate garage must have an office space to enjoy the new PC Sim I got from GB. Unfortunately not available in Oz yet but clearly leaves GT4 for dead for sheer accuracy and fub with FF wheel and a high speed net connection for online racing leagues. Pic below

Sure Kel , maybe there is a few bucks to be made in creating these exhorbitant big kids play houses. I reckon 5-40 acres within 25-40km of the centre of Brisvegas, up to the north of town should be perfect. Could maybe buy 5 of those for the price of a 2 beddie in Syddley Now just have to get Lakeside reopened so I got somewhere decent to race....goddam paperclip. Saw the late post Duncan, hope it measures up, otherwise you might have to come to Qld to visit the better half...Actually, can she swing a spanner and sweep?? Let me know how the racing went wont you?

The short slots, isn't that some DBA gimmick to "prevent" cracking at the slots? So they now have the radius short slots as standard at the opposite angle? Evrery cheap[ solution has a cost I suppose, and you always find out when most inconvenient (and I'm not talking about the actual brake setup) Good to hear a solution was found.

Finally I found the ultimate home garage installation to plagiarise. My greatest problem in the garage is organisation and having work areas at a good height to not wreck my back further, and since my home in Melbourne is up for sale later this month I cbf wasting time and effort on setting up for great organisation and cleanliness. What I am working toward is the place I intend to build in Brisbane in a few years, with a view toward moonlighting doing some very exclusive performance work to subsidise my ultimate garage and motorsport goals. Perhaps this is a little beyond my immediate ability to achieve but the general layout is great, and shows just what can be done from home. Still with me? Wanna see the place? OK here it is. clicky Yes I saw the other thread some months ago, but having worked in a large brand new Qld Toyota service centre many years ago, and inspected a number of Army aviation maintenance facilities, this not only compares favourably but wins hands down.

Well last year we raced the guys in the HSV Club at Philip Island and pretty well cleaned them up. They are nice piece of car if big and lardy with a bit of stonk is your thing, but they suck on the racetrack. One that I was dicing with was about a second a lap quicker on semi-comps with a fair bit of money spent on the engine and suspension while I had tired old stock suspension and standard road rubber. I had 220rwkw and he was just pulling away on the main straight so a bit of go in the old boat anchor, but I was seriously giving him something to think about on the corners until my tyres started going off due to too much heat. I came in about 5th in my class of modified but Frank and Snowman demolished their HSV barges in the GTR's. Horses for courses mate but from someone who has spent only a little bit of time in a V8SC pit crew there is nothing similar between the racecar and the road car, so he gets no cred from that.

so when you have a moment Jason, can you take us through what you do in fitting these on the hydraulic models?

Too true mate, I aplologise to the members and request that all further posts be related directly to HICAS bar fitting, alternatives, problems and solutions.

So this item here you suggest takes 2 hours to remove and replace and conduct a rear toe adjustment (see pic)? I'll allow the forum members to determine for themselves the truth of that. As to my value, I'd suggest it is way beyond your comprehension, but I still only swing spanners for personal enjoyment and to help out mates. This is a DIY thread where info is offered for members to do it themselves so they only then need the rear toe adjustment. Sure I sell the items, for which I have selected suitable materiel and welding methods to ensure they remain stronger than the factory component, but members are free to buy wherever they want to and these are available from a number of sources. I just offer them at a price to recover my costs and make a little as well, as they are a very basic component. There is no need to introduce negative comments or attempt to impress us with the cars you own. A quick search of the forum revealed your history on here, including your new workshop thread here so I'd suggest it is still a new workshop and I still offer you my regards on making it successful. Just quietly, helpful comment will bring more customers to your door than just being negative without supporting evidence. As far as this thread goes I recommend you either help with appropriate comment or refrain from attempting to directly insult me and my intelligence or indirectly insult the forum members by trying to offer a service that they may not want or need. If you feel there is error in the method then by all means take your pictures and post the detail, for the benefit of the members. In future if you are offering services then post in the appropriate section of the forum.

Scott sure mate, and as for the TT, well until some other tasks are completed I have a self imposed moratorium. Can't even drive it

With the number of copies of the workshop manuals on the forum why not give it a try yourself. This is a pretty easy job.

Saw that old beast last night. Good effort. We've been discussing this type of thing at Avalon airport but Jetstar flies from there so bugger all chance. Might have to plan an SAUvic trip next year.

What makes you think that on a 32/silvia platform that anything other than plugging the hydraulics or a connector pipe is required? Sure removing the rest is nice, but not necessary. It is just a basic hydraulic system. For 33 and 34 the system is electric so no pumps, or perhaps you haven't had the opportunity to work on these yet. I have no problem with a mechanic with a new workshop trying to make a buck...hell I spent a lot of years working as a mechanic myself before getting an engineering degree, but I suggest you specify the service you are offering such as the exact work on the car, whether you will provide an alignment and whether any other parts have to be payed for. BTW good luck with the workshop.

Aren't we cleaning seats Kaz?

Fitting and a rear alignment should be no more than $50

Yep, will be in the mail later today.

Yep, even the missus was stunned.

The new preen carpet cleaner is sensational. Spray on, wipe off with dry cloth the give a light rub with a damp cloth. Grease and oul stains just disappear.

How's about I whip up a master cylinder stopper for you? will need the car for about 1/2 hour. Maybe the firewall has developed some previously undetectable flex. The backing shims I took out because they wanted a lot of money for the replacements, and mine were cooked and warped from running metal on metal rear pads at Sandown when the pads collapsed. Was giving a really bad pedal so I looked closely and decided that I would try to live without them. Given the brakes still don't boil I consider it was worth the effort. That was my only concern. Even Brembo's will have some movement on the shims. They are only there to stop brake squeal.

Posting on behalf of Steve, all of these items have been sold so no more calls please. Mods please close thread and maybe delete Steves number?

hmmmm, wet day. Looks perfect

OK mate, losing perspective. 1. pull the discs off an take a few mm off the outer radius... maybe get the slots taken to the circumference as well. What point having slots if they are not going to clean the discs fully and allow escape of all the gas out. 2. pull the spacer block off and have the same amount plus a little taken off, so now the pads should not sit over the edge. 3. try it with the Comp9's but I'd recommend a piece of glass with some emery on to take them back to flat. I'd guess the cheapest workable solution could be RB74's back on but guess both work work out close.

The issue with spacing the caliper away from the hub centre is that the caliper has a design limit for the maximum radius disc. so to continue to clear the disc the pad eventually (as radius of disc increases) starts to overhang causing it's own set of problems. With a 5mm radius smaller disc this would probably be OK.

Ben, as always I prefer email as it is easier to track orders than PM. I intend to open a website soon with all of the orders starting to come in, and use PayPal, which reminds, I must make another donation to Christian.

The other thing worth trying without going overboard is a set of slotted rotors, good pads like RB74's and Motul DOT5.1 brake fluid. On both standard and semi-comp rubber I had no issues with fade or consistency until the pads wore down to about 3.5mm left. Most won't drive to anywhere near the limits of this basic change, even though it doesn't have the rice cred but for a tired old 33 it helped me to some decent laptimes.

Mate i appreciate what you are doing with your 240, and what you plainly see as value for money in the objective however I must agree with SK on all of his points. I myself am attempting to find the line of cost versus benefit with the RB series engine and I am prepared to suffer engine failures, and the dissapointment that goes with it, but I can afford it, even though I often don't like it. Fortunately I came across SAU as it opened up a number of resources for the ideal parts and places to buy (Thanks SK). I also do all of my own engine building so I can definitely appreciate that too. I have to point out that it's cheap and easy to copy someone elses design where a significant amount of Intellectual Property has been developed. I'ts also highly unethical and downright illegal. They have put the effort into establishing an optimised solution and spent the money on testing and in a commercial sense, have decided when enough of the final solution has been achieved to be commercially viable. I think John is pushing for a greater percentage of the best solution than many others, including that well known brand that is being used as somewhat of a benchmark. As a rule of thumb, 50% effort/cost will get an 80% solution but the last 20% will cost as much again, so he now has to amortize the cost of development over a limited production run, and still make a profit to make it worthwhile. Law of diminishing returns I'm afraid. Trust me I have been spending millions of Aussie tax dollars on smart solutions for several years now but the customers always want more for less. Also I have a detailed background in aerodynamics and fluid mechanics and have designed and tested on programs involved in everything from water based submersible systems to supersonic shock tunnels where the problems of incompressible airflow arise, so I understand fluid flow a little better than most. Sure chucking more boost at a problem may result in the power you want, but it is not elegant or economical in a technical sense and there are those who will appreciate the possible benefits of the UAS plenum. In your case, the airbox you intend to use may be the limit of what you see as value for money, but when you get on the track and someone has that little extra jump out of a corner, or can control the power that little bit better on a critical sweeper while you are struggling with grip and control due to unsteady power deliver (yes I have been there and a drop of 3-4psi of boost cured some of the problem and lowered lap times a couple of seconds) then this may be the right solution, especially after spending many tens of thousands of dollars in the first place just to get onto the track. Horses for courses and not everyone will want to spend the bucks to get the better solution, but some will, and I have got one eye firmly locked on this one. Maybe after I play with a GTR 6 throttle/plenum conversion to complement the twin turbo conversion.