GTRgeoff

I wont bail on you Roy.....

Roy I have 2 spare bleed valves (normal and a blue anodised thing) as I will be using the Autospeed one until Funky comes through with my digital order. Turbs on, exhaust fitted (GTR 2.5" hks style front pipe bolts straight up ), dumps and fronts in 'jamy wrap, just welding up the turbo feeds and will finish the IC piping and injectors tomorrow and I'm ready to crank. Dyno Weds arvo so fingers crossed.

Nah mate, upgraded now to toyota 440cc injectors from the std RB25 that I had @220rwkw. I think the standards are 340cc or so. A good size jump anyway and good for 300rwkw so plenty in reserve. Denham, no pics yet as I'm still fitting parts and stuff together. Have to get the manifolds today (Robbie has been flat out with drags and PAYING customers....) and hope to be on the dyno Weds. What won't get done at this stage will be the cams, swirlpot and 044. Still should be a good power figure but just running out of time and available cash (and wifes' patience) Roy!! You were supposed to be sleeping Dammit!!! Have you apologised to that poor lady yet that you woke at oh dark hundred Friday morning??? Flowers, a nice gift and dinner and a big big apology or you will go straight to HELL in her regard and you won't get ANY.

I bought the Hybrid monster that supposedly is rated for 800hp and made the piping myself. I have had no issues with lag and run a temp probe post IC and find the outlet temps to be within 1 degree of ambient temp. It is supposed to have only 0.5psi drop at around 15 psi or so. GTR coolers are coming down in price so look for a bargain there too.

Not listed I know but I'm after the std airbox, intake piping and post compressor piping. Have you got anything?

Gotta agree. I run the Arias and GTR rods. Get the block cleaned and O ringed, balance the bottom end and lighten the flywheel. Also have the crank checked for bend and the plugs pulled to clean through. X ray everything that can be done. Costs about 1200 for the good bottom end work including ACL Race bearings (RB30 main and SR20 Big end) and the prices posted above for the other parts are spot on. I currently run 220rwkw happily at the racetrack and expect it to last.

Stace, as butcherous as it sounds I have had to resort to using 0.9mm MIG welding wire on Brembos previously. Stainless if possible and form them into a split pin shape, push them through and spread the ends. Not perfect but it will last long enough to order a new set.

Snowy, I thought that was your autosalon run. doesn't matter, i'll squeeze every last drop but on previous assumption it seemed achievable. 260 won't be a problem and will be welcome for top end. When you are sick of the 2530's I'll be in the wings......... Al ultimately the head will have GTR cams as well, just reground to suit the hydraulic lifters but will lack the valve size. Plus the GTR34 turbos are safe at 1.2bar or 17.2 psi. Nice job parking BTW . Sorry to hear of it mate. Ferni I am also running a malpassi FPR which allowed 220 rwkw with the stock injectors at 85-90% with the GTR pump, plus I will be using a Bosch 044 external and swirlpot (for safety on the track). Fuel won't be a problem. Again though, a car with a higher compression ratio will produce more power at the same psi.

Denham, I understand Snowie got 260awkw so usually GTR's get another 30-40 in rw mode. With the higher compression I'll make more specific power at the same boost of 1.2 bar max. The injectors (440) will deliver enough I think and the bottom end is certainly strong enough so it's worth a try.

Ignore Roy he is a serial RB20 killa. Run what's comfortable 'cos when your engine goes it's bound to do it big time at that power. Well the bits are all coming together.....this might just happen. TT has to equal twice the fun. I remember doing a 2:08 in the wet at the HSV day (edit: actually it was the PIARC track weekend) taking the high line thru turn 1. Taught me heaps about my lines in one session and I was pumped making the lap stick. All experimentation is good but my yucky rear shocks would have been suicide to go really hard through turn 1. I will stand by my finding too that a set of MOMO carbon race pedals took 3 seconds off my previous best. Not just rice factor.....Put simply the ability to heel/toe smoothly is a huge benefit.

Then he makes a liar of me....BASTARD!!!

PI needs WANG to go fast in the sweepers Just relax mate....it'll come.

ant 2:00 is the stock tyre best for me. i'm entered and should have lotsa pretty stuff today:D shocks are replaced, new front gtr bar and wing, new stock diff and hoping for close to 280rwkw.....maybe more.

Guys you will have to call steve. His computer is down and he posted from mine yesterday. The wheels can be seen in his pics but are now silver centres instead of gold. Being a 2/3 piece design he dismantled and resprayed and they look good. His front bar in the pics is now on my track car but he can provide more as well as GTR wings. The boost controller is the thin 2 button with the silver EVC, so 2 units from memory, and surprisingly looks a lot like other setups seen on the site...... The fan did need a minor trim at the rear corner to accomodate the IC piping, but driving the car yesterday I found it smooth and without vibration. The GFB is a twin outlet and can be configured for part return, part trumpet or full return or full trumpet and gives a strong whoosh instead of the squeak-flutter of my HKS. Call him.

Ummm yep. Currently on to setup oil lines then manifold welding tomorrow. But you have cheater ABS on the GTR so what's the problem??? Just pick a point on the track and brake there.

Mine keep tellling me to mod the car....Nelly is onto me now, and even though she approved the turbos, didn't realize the added costs........

I'd like to know more about the spec before letting it go. The wife thought of putting it in the auto but it is selling soon anyway and is stock. Pearls before swine. Let you know. I think with the volume of air going to the actuators, if I stick to a single bleed to post AFM I should be ok with the standard size and use the controller to bring up around 15psi. Basically just start standard, split to both actuators after the bleed and that should be fine. That should exceed the 220rwkw I was getting and a bit more top end. Be nice at the Island to top 260 on the straight.

Thurs is good. Maybe whore around the pits...

Maybe I'll go on the free day.......interested?

BTW I got mine on the day. Still not allowed to fit them..the wife think they are ugly. A little work to do there yet, and maybe paint them in a matching colour.

Oh this was hard guys...... http://www.aerocatch.com/

Guys, as yet I am unsure what the law specifically states in Qld, but in Vic I have a clear approach. My car is raced, and has numbers and club stickers but isn't over the top visually. That said I am rarely stopped but when I am, if they ask me to pop the bonnet I ask them to get the recorder and I follow them to the car and ask them to radio in that I have requested the proceeding conversations are recorded so it can't be denied later. Then I ask them clearly to state their name and number for the record, and then I ask them to start over with their request. Usually they stop here and leave. If they continue I ask why they wish to search my car and then follow on depending on the answer. They are not permitted to search in Vic unless they have a good enough reason to believe the car is not roadworthy eg. visually has defects or they have suspiscion of drugs, which an Army officers ID tends to instantly refute. They key is to be polite, know your road laws and legal rights to the nth degree and MAKE them record all conversations. Be in control. Carefully worded questions will make them say things inappropriate that can be taken to the ethics unit later for charges of unprofessional behaviour of misconduct. Not a healthy way to progress a career, or even keep the job. Remember they are our protective servants, and they do not have the right to be standoverish or unprofessional, just like the Military. If the Army went around treating people like this in the locations we are deployed there would be outcry, so force the Police to try to achieve the same standards.

The critical question for me though is what restrictor to use for a twin turbo setup (R34GTR), since I don't have the original GTR hose setup to add. Some gentle trial and error is needed methinks. Now if Funky will just get my order in...... elbee I may have a good 25t turbo available soon, depending on how fast the TT setup goes in. I want it done by 10 mar and when happy will be selling my turbo which has produced 220rwkw @ 14psi. I bought it from Rigoli in 2000 and it was supposedly modified, but I can't tell what.

No freebie pass for me so stuff it, I'm not going.

Just to add to Ferni's comments, if you are a track newcomer then road tyres are the best way to start to learn. Semi's give very little warning of traction loss, and the slicks I raced on years ago in Sports Sedans gave NONE. Start slow, build up your speeds approaching turns and enter them at gradually faster speeds until you determine what speed is optimal. Then start coming at the corners at higher speeds and start braking later until you have your braking point identified to slow enough to just be entering the corner at the optimal speed. If all goes wrong, just brake hard and try to point the car at the safest spot, usually on the black stuff. All the best racers agree that anyone with normal co-ordination and the desire to improve can be a good racer with dedication and application of good training. Repeatability is the key to success. See you there (hopefully if the TT gets finished).