GTRgeoff

full-boost, come along to the WRX club twilight sprint at Calder on the 5th Feb, we'll be out having a go and enjoying their hospitality. One of the guys has a GTR34 as well for your enjoyment. I have to say that the WRX STi is a pretty good car now, after a lot of the niggling problems have been sorted, but the difference between STi and GTR at Phillip Island is between 6 - 10 seconds a lap. There will be some quick rexies out at Calder so you should see some great competition and make a real comparison rather than street talk. As an example I run about 2 seconds a lap slower on standard rubber than a WRX STi on semi-comps in my GTS25t, or did before new suspension. My old stuff was leaking and stock, but lowered so I expect to pick up another 3-5 seconds a lap at PI. On semi-comps I pick up another 5 seconds a lap. Feel free to contact me for more details.

Sounds interesting Grinch, but at the very least, talk to a radiator place and try to use their paint.

Victoria - You can keep it! Victoria - Livable? NOT! Victoria - Where else but Queensland? Victoria - Owned by speed cameras. Victoria - Can the last person on their way somewhere nice please turn off the lights? Victoria - It's just too easy to hang sh*t on!

4 point is fine, as long as they don't want 3" Roy, what's with Australia day?

Damn. I wanted to have the first skyline ute. GTR though.

Bob's right. I have a post intercooler temp sensor and the outlet is always within 1 degree of ambient when driving over 60 kmh. Under 60 and it can creep up several degrees if the road is hot. I will caution though that I once unintentionally parked so the car (and intercooler) was facing the summer afternoon sun. Got in and drove off, no heroics, just a light accel pressure and the car instantly started detonating. This was after a short warmup idle and a drive through a carpark.

Gotta remember mate, I did all this in the late 80's with open wheelers and sports sedans. OK they were the entry level models but still needed the suit, shoes balaclava and gloves. Difference between race shoes and volleys is almost nil in terms of feel and pedal grip. I certainly recommend a pair of light leather race gloves though. The Army Helo pilots gloves I have are nomex with leather palm and the grip and control on the wheel is second to none. Race suits are hot and heavy and expensive, and a good cotton overall is just as good. Might see if Army will give me a new set of nomex flying suits in trendy olive drab. I recall there may be a move soon by CAMS to require a minimum of one piece cotton for all speed events so I think I'll start looking.

Thanks Matt.

After extensive discussions on this topic with other engineers and fellows in the automotive field/SAE the result was that a layer of paint will essentially cancel any benefits. The core is a matt aluminium anyway so will be quite efficient. If the natural finish were a matt black it would be fine but the thermal barrier of the paint takes as well as gives. Nothing is free. Powdered gold is the finest radiating medium discovered, from memory, as it is pure matt black but a bit too exxy for me. A story goes that a fine craftsman made a home radiator from brass and copper, all finely polished, but was freezing through winter, although the radiator would burn when touched. He sought advice and was told to sandblast the radiator. This he did with a tear in the eye after all the hard work, and the result was a great home heater. My advice is to hide it behind meshlike Pred. has done.

lights on the roof, antennas everywhere, no fat chicks sticker and a Conargo pub sticker. Add a few stickers from various B&S balls and it's a ute in disguise. BTW I already got scalpels Shan....You wanna piece of me man????

If you can prove it was not signposted and they have a duty of care to warn of/rectify the extant problem you may have a case. Depends on the variation of grip present. I've been caught out twice with road surfaces changing. Luckily no damage but after appropriate correspondence the roads were resurfaced.

I'm with you on all of that mate, really, but on the single bolt that will allow deformation of the bracket and possible loss of capture I disagree. My point, and educated view is 2 self tappers is better than one bolt. Still, if one bolt is fiine then a self tapper as well won't rock the boat, so most of out guys will be fine. BTW I just bought a pair of sparco suede racing shoes, non fire retardant for $77 delivered, buy it now on eBay

A few points. They surely mean fire retardant socks as fire proof wouldn't fit in any shoes. Mine are cotton drill uppers over cotton socks (go the dunlop volleys), much like the cotton clothing I wear as fire protection and meets all other sprint event sup regs. I'd agree if the shoes were to be fire retardant and they were consistent with other clubs. What's so special about these guys. Since the self tappers and pop rivets are out then I'm getting the chewing gum ready, didn't say anything about that. Honestly, have they taken any engineering advice on this? Most of us have just one seat bolt through the mount and a self tapper, so will that fail scrutineering? If I use hex head self tappers I bet they won't check. Christ, aircraft are held together with self tappers and rivets. Flagging...their party...my money...do you think I'm going to wave a flag for them. If I sound a bit grumpy it's possibly due to the amount of panadeine forte I've consumed over the last 2 days, but mostly because they are being unreasonable.

BRI-58Y will make a track day finish!!!

Ron, I asked the finance minister and was not warmly received. She wants a GTR33. We're after a GTR for just road use in pretty well stock condition, never to see the track. Sorry and good luck mate.

Just a couple of thoughts. Were they bedded in properly? Procedure that works is on DBA's website. Are the shims and springs all fitted correctly? I occasionally get some squeal but only after a while without trackwork. I actually run without the shims for a firmer pedal.

I find this extraordinary. Personal preference is an amazing thing, but I asked racebrakes specifically for a pad that would give good cold properties, not bite hard at initial application (like most of the Bendix junk), be progressive with braking force the harder I pedal and be consistent and reliable on track. They delivered with a set of RB74's.The only criticism I have is they go off in the last 4mm and are so hard that sometimes cold braking is a problem but until then (which included several track days) they were perfect. Anyway if locosam falls through I'll take them no question for my wife's auto 33.

With a Power FC you can run the FCDatalogit software from NZ. Allows data logging, tuning etc all on a handy interface. Currenty putting the package together.

Just a starter, try checking the gaskets on the exhaust and inlet. Do this cold with the car running and use a spray bottle to get the water onto the intake and exhaust manifold joins on the head and the turbo mount. If you have bubbles it's a leak. if not that's one less cause.

Is this in Melb? If so I'll give you $100 for the rear bumper.

Remembering that these can have lower rate springs delivered, I think they are the best value for money available; and I am certain the spring rate as delivered will be a good starting point for the track, but most will find them hard to live with unless they have that thought in their heads that the handling improvement on track is worth it.

:Oops: What Ash said........yeah

I want one. Just so's I can drive around and snipe flogs in their puss handling 350z's

Try here mate. I heard $100 ea for the EGO sensor. http://www.petroject.com.au/performance.html

Of course I must add that so is the GTR ECU, otherwise it wouldn't need the coil pack, would it?