GTRgeoff

So has anyone got compliance for these yet?

Nissan sell the shims @ about $25 each and the manual states the tolerances. Good luck but if they are not sounding noisy it's hardly worth the effort.

The copper down there is a bit full of himself "...if it is done in a controlled environment." Well what is a closed racetrack wanker? Practice days are available at Sandown almost every weekend. Get a CAMS license and surf the other club websites and enter. They time you and everything, even have fire marshalls and ambulance. Personally I prefer Phillip Island, and will miss it when i go to Qld, but there is plenty of racing available if you make the effort.

Roy will be pleased to hear I got the news out on the Epping/Broady grapevine last night and all that's left is a couple of plastic clips, some charcoal looking stuff and pics of the stripdown...oh and about $7K for the parts sale-o-rama/feeding frenzy OK just joking. Sounds like a good time was had, but I had the diff out, which i quickly finished off to make room for the car, and am still having trouble driving a manual with the stupid back pain crap.

Yeah I'm dropping my old diff centre off to Preston Auto's and diffs today for some thoughts on what can be beefed up. Pity I don't have a viscous, as both are helical (I bought a centre last week) to drop in as well. These guys seem pretty good and will pass the centre around some of their contacts for some feedback. Given the price of whats out there there may be some market for upgrades.

Marcus, all I can say is you must be made of money to consider 18's I squeeeze 255's on mine and I think they are 7.5's with 235 on the front. Gives a bit of tyre overhang to protect the rim. I have 20mm boltons and have had no issues so far so I would say just try it out. You can alway flog the gear off later......

No, I was lucky enough to get to live there, although I have done the drive up and back 7 times now over the years. The AT stuff was after my time. I'm not sure what it would be like now with the concentration of military but I'd guess not as good as it was. Hopefully the local Police are still as friendly as ever.

Niz, a bit more info would be useful. Did you need to use the axles and hubs? Since the track for the GTR32 is wider did the axles have enough space in the spline for easy fitment to the 33GTS subframe? Which upper control arms? GTR33 or GTS? What car is it in? R31 or R33?

I had 2 postings to the NT with the green machine. Right back at the start of the buildup of our presence there and I found the NT police to be the best around. We did a bit with the SOG and it was heaps of fun sharing toys and obstacle courses. Good to see that it probably hasn't changed. Cheers Shane Is big Jim Met**** still with the Coroners office? He was a good mate and lived just a few houses from me.

Well that's disappointing to hear. C'mon guys, time to honour the commitment. I have to mention that at the start of the year at the motorsport expo the price for these was about $600 so this price is extraordinary. While I am yet to get these on the track, I can immediately feel the improvement over the stockers for firm, positive brake pedal and about 1cm less pedal travel. This is great for me as I have my pedal setup for heel and toe and last time out I was having trouble braking without contacting the accelerator on the big stops at Sandown. I won't have that problem now. Plus the issue of having a 10 year old import (94 model) means that many items are just past their use by date and brakelines especially so.

devo, take it back and get him to pull the steering column from the rack and align it properly, and don't pay him cos he didn't do the job right the first time. SK as always is correct. Richard has obviously seen the dodgy buggers at work. I went in to get a quick balance before the last track day at PI and Beau's (the big blue place that's everywhere) tried the same thing...'..but the tread's too thin now (40%) and it will go out of balance at high speed.' Me - 'Have you ever driven on a race track at over 240kmh?' Beau's - 'No, never been on a race track.' Get the alignment specs from Whitelines website and take them for your alignment so the idiots don't screw it up again.

He's already pissed somewhere that has no 'net. GO CHAMP.

Just thought I'd provide some detail on fitting a HICAS removal bar. Thanks go to Shane for providing pics. All threads are standard right hand. R32 info can be found here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...0entry2100796 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ST&f=59&t=93183 The first step is to remove the electrical wiring from the HICAS unit which is located behind the rear diff (pic1) which will be cable tied away later. You can even cover the contacts with 'leccy tape as Shane has done. Next you need to remove the lock wiring on the rubber boots at each end, pull back the boots and then "crack off" the large 4 sided rod end so they are easier to remove later. Now the 2 mounting bolts for the HICAS unit can be removed and let the unit hang down so the large 4 sided rod ends can be removed. It is important not to try to remove these when the unit is mounted as there is a lot of force from the wheel stations and injury could result. Now the unit is off, you have Now the HICAS lock goes in exactly in the reverse order with the rod ends installed by hand, then fit up the mounting bolts. Remember how hard everything was to undo, well it needs to be almost as tight when refitting or things could come undone under the loads and vibrations of road and track use. Now remember to retighten the rod ends as well and finally clean up the wiring with cable ties. Reinstall the boots and cable tie into place. Finally, go and get a wheel alignment, or even get the place to install and align. If they say it will take them more than 1/2 hour to install they suck so go somewhere else that won't rip you off. Now go and enjoy the feeling of precise powerslides and control (if in a GTSt) without the computer trying to "help" I welcome those who have installed the R32/180SX/Sylvia bar to provide their detail on hydraulic hose fitting sizes and insights into their fitting. Cheers Geoff

Robin, sounds a bit like plug gap is too wide at that boost. My suggestion, put the exxy plugs in a box and put them away, and get NGK copper 7 heat range and gap to 0.76 - 0.8mm. From your description it sounds like the boost is limiting spark. At worst it could be a coil pack. Roy I have a lovely 94 black auto R33GTSt that would love you to do your thing and turn it into a drag queen

Before we know it he'll be responsible and married with 2.3 kids. Happy birthday mate

James, I'll take it. Can I pick up sometime Friday? Geoff 0408124767

Moose, I'll give you $30 delivered.

Shane let me know if the bar is damaged at all and is unsafe to use again and I'll replace it. Sorry to hear this happened, regardless of the workmanship issue, I like people to be happy with the product doing what it is supposed to.

That's a damn fine price, and an option for a future upgrade if I get too over the top. As for the car, gonna put the RB25 cams back in today so I can drive it. Too doughy with the GTR cams and no hand controller to compensate, but I will regrind the GTR cams for an amazing $300/pr at Crow to suit the Hydraulic lifters. Nissan wanted about $130 ea for solids and shims which x 24 = lots'o'money. All things considered, if JP wants to run these in the slotcar then they have to be worth a try. I can't afford to wait otherwise I'd get my mate at the Koni distributor to run them up, but I intend to roll past Pedders and show them as their product is about $3K non-adjustable damping with a stated 400kg/mm springs -> wankers. They need to adjust pricing and maybe determine the spring rate. I did look at some JIC recently but every piston was rusted and flaking off the chrome and non rebuildable. They are cartridges so you replace the unit. Can be had for $830ish US for a set so the asking price was steep as they are only height adjustable and the cartridges are about 180US each. Very light but these HD's seem to be the best value for money about.

No the lock bar just replaces the steering unit and the links bolt into the ends. As I said, try a wreckers, or Just Jap, or even Unique Autosports.

I have a set of HR's on the way from UAS so I'll let you all know how they rate. Gotta say John was helpful, but unfortunately the HS are out of stock so I've gone for the more trackworthy package.

I'd try a wreckers or just jap for the parts. Did a front steering link recently for a mate and it was pretty cheap. Unless you re going on track a HICAS lock bar won't be much use and it won't fix this anyway.

Scott it depends on the part thats worn/allowing the slop in the rear end. Just replacing the HICAS unit with a lock bar may not help if the ball joints are buggered. Best to ask what was causing the slop (you have paid for it in the inspection) or to jump underneath with the rear on stands and pull the back end of the wheel from side to side and watch the links.

Yep, but you get the lowered compression ratio which sucks. For the cost of GTR slugs and rings from Nissan you add a little and can get RB25 forged Arias from Rocket industries ($1300)

Had a late notice engagement, so sorry I missed the fun. Well done team.