GTRgeoff

BTW here is the workshop manual pages

This is the respponse I got from Darron at JustJap, who I have always found helpful, prompt and well priced. Hi, Can get these items for you. Front Caliper Kits are available @$180.00 inc gst. Rear Caliper Kits are available @$260.00 inc gst. Brake Master Cylinder Kit @$200.00 Non ABS & @$135.00 ABS model.. ex japan only for ABS type Brake Master Cyl.Kit. Best regards, Darron Corrigan Manager. JustJap Auto Imports www.justjap.com 101 Bath Road Kirrawee NSW 2232 Sydney,Australia. Phone.+61 (02) 9545 0532 Fax. +61 (02) 9542 1684

Who needs movies. A photo of me jumping a road in a 39 ton Leopard Tank AS1 ARVM (Armoured Recovery Vehicle - Medium) at 65 km/h. Normally we carry a 5 ton power pack (engine/transmission unit) but this day we were clean for some fun. 823hp V10 twin supercharged MTU (Mercedes) diesel that uses 2 litres per km. Each pot is close to 186 cubic inches in capacity or about 30 litres total capacity. After this thing I sold the Land Cruiser and have never 4WD'd since.

BSC Motion Technology is the supplier and Steve is the contact. Cost was about $104 for the tensioner and idler complete. Located at Unit 3/1968 Hume Highway Campbellfield VIC 3061 Tel 03 9357 7515 Extremely helpful and at that price it is a sin not to change these little suckers when the chance arises. The difference in smoothness of the new ones over the old ones is pretty distinct.

I'd love to but Perth is a long way on a scooter since the car is undergoing maintenance.....

Instead of just drift sliding into them with the passenger door.....Duncan?

221RWKW mongrel unknown spec turbo from Rigoli. The build consisted of: Arias Forged Pistons 1.0 mm OS (1300) GTR rods with fresh bolts (400) ACL heat treated race bearings (120) Balance, clean and O ring block etc. including straighten of crank and lightening. (1100) GTR fuel pump (180) Malpassi Rising Rate fuel reg (120) Standard head gasket (90) Hybrid Monster FMIC (700) piping (120) new Mig welder (700) Autohouse Tsukasaki PFC (secret) Dump and front combo 3" with Fujitsubo "Jasma" 3" stainless system and racing cat also fitted. Click Here for dyno sheet

No question, Buster has it on the money......Mmmmm Angelina and Eleanor

Wait till the alignment is good, and you give it a squirt out of a corner.

I don't think I'd give you a stale fish to slap yourself with mate (just trying to maintain some contention in the forums) Actually just get an employer who will let you get away with buying this sort of product. I almost did but instead we put an armoured vehicle in a wind tunnel with greater than 1/3 blockage ratio. Only cost 200+K when the software would be a lot cheaper. As I said, the right employer. Maybe time for a job change.

Al, just be advised I'll be out of country from 24th Nov to 5th Dec so you may have to hold mine until I return. See you tomorrow.

Has anyone calculated the ideal runner lengths to counter inversion pressure waves at the various rev ranges (frequencies) for low middle and high end torque for use with the GTR plenum volume and a range of cam lifts and overlaps? I'd be inclined to consider that plenum as an infinite chamber for ease of calculation initially if you use a single throttle body. Maybe one day I'll get of the fat blurter to make an excel based tool. Also has anyone considered the benefits of a twin throttle setup a'la the Zoom Excel that responded very dramatically some years ago? Is the throttle body a large enough restriction? My thoughts are to put 2 RB25 throttle bodies on a RB25 plenum equidistant from the centreline. My personal interest is in a forward facing plenum so I can fit a GTR strut brace, as it won't fit with the current plenum.

Emre, an offer I can't refuse. Sorry Robocop

I'm with Duncan...copper plugs, laziness and water, but I've never had water in the plug valley except when cleaning and then I do it with the engine warm and then soak the water out and take the ignition packs out to get rid of all water if any gets in. Just regular maintenance to keep an eye on various parts.

I'll take a set mate. Let me know when it's on.

Try skylinesteve as he might be kind enough to make you a fiberglass GTR style 2 piece spoiler. He also does wings and sideskirts. I should have mine soon. I got a rear GTR wing and was happy with it. It was raw though and had to be painted which I did myself.

Marcus, just relocate the cooler and maybe whack some ducting on. A decent piece of ally will cost $30 from a good trade hardware store and get good tin snips. For a good high resolution temp guage go to Jaycar electronics. I had to put an extension in mine to reach the front of the engine bay. Oil-wise, the distributor of Redline oils almost recommended the Mobil stuff as it also has the same secret ingredient as Redline. He said he ran a race car (super tourer I think) with 30psi oil pressures and the engine lasted ages. If the oil is lubricating without having to be a high viscosity product it will not generate that extra heat due to high viscosity. His comment was the HRT team had that great engine reliability compared to the others, then one of the team members moved to a new team and spilled the beans on the oil they used. He says almost every other team now uses Redline regardless of what the Sponsors name is. Hard to believe I know but apparently the polyolester is the trick additive. He also suggested the water wetter will bring the engine temp down several degrees due to improved cooling. I'd definitely recommend testing any temp guage installed as well to verify the readings. Ferny's idea on series mounting of coolers is a good one too. Basically though I'd be dead keen to hear if something simple like filling up with Mobil or Redline does anything significant. I will be conducting some basic testing soon, but possibly not soon enough to help.

Then ring NSK direct and ask who the local distributors are. They won't trade direct though. Fair enough mine have had a fair bit of track, but do you want to strip the front end of the engine again for what should be 100K service parts replacement for the sake of $120 in parts? My bearings at 120K are getting a bit graunchy and have blued a bit from the heat. Replace the high tensile bolts as well that hold on the cam belt rollers as they can and have failed with the expected results of engine destruction.

Some info here that might help. I recommend get the other stuff out of the way while the timing belt is off.

I think the V34 skyline here would be better....hey...it's a 'line. http://geoffwill.ozforces.com.au/

Snowie, sorry to say I'm already booked, but if the plans change I'll try drag the ball and chain in for a few hours. Anyways have a good one mate.

I looked up GTS25's thread and gave the numbers to a Bearing distributor in Melbourne. About $50-60 each for the idler and tensioner from the NSK warehouse in Melb (which has hundreds) so I have ordered mine. They are starting to feel a bit graunchy and get a workout with all the track days. While I'm at it I'll get prices on waterpumps and post. If the oil pump is coming off (a real biatch as the sump has to be dropped) do the oil seal on the crank, as well as the cam oil seals. They are all the same part and the RB30 cam oil seal fits all three. They are pretty hard at 100K so change at least the cam seals. The inlet cam on RB25DET is a pain with the VCT gear but you take the cam cover off and put a large spanner on the flats on the shaft then undo the big retaining bolt through the cam gear. No probs as you can't put it back together wrong with the keys. The cam bearing cap torque is 9-12Nm. I'll include the pages from the manual and for the cam belt.

Both are oil and water. Bearings, no idea.