GTRgeoff

Go with betta seconds. Got a 6K stove for about 3K

Also try some Redline water wetting agent. i understand it will reduce the tmps a bit as well after a 20min discussion with the aussie agent.

Just as well I cancelled. Getting a noise from the front of the motor and noticed the cam belt idler and tensioner are BLUE, which means heat so the front is coming off the engine later today to replace the bearings in those rollers. All good though as I can install the GTR oil pump, throw on a new water pump and get the GTR cams in as well as do some other maintenance. Someone got a set of adjustable cam gears for sale cheap?

Although the RBA slotted rotors are a lot cheaper, with my full set of slotted fronts and plain rears coming in at $560. I use the RB74's and they are a good pad on the track with no fade yet with the backing shims removed and MOTUL DOT5.1 fluid. They are down to about 3mm now and are in need of replacement as they are getting very hard to control easily (not much pressure form slowing to locking).

The big question of course is....does it give you that good feeling when it's cranking at a million rpm? (Just having a mental image of SK doing an great big battery conversion, taking photos and then racing to the 'puter to post without trying the crank test ) Good price on the 600 CCA and DAMN that is a clean engine bay!

You are just a whole mess of bad luck. Sorry to hear but do us a favour and steer clear of our race meetings Let us know more when it's sorted.

Always a catch22 but eventually you wok out the cost of convenience and think of all the cool tools you coulda had, and they keep paying for themselves.

Don't want to look in case I'm wrong everywhere:Oops: SK's advice is always on the money so take a look guys.

Thanks JAPCAB and Paul. Cruising on the fwy I give a pretty good lightshow (flames) to anyone following so I just want to eliminate the O2 sensor.

Whats the cost of one of these Paul?

Seems to be a lot of 32's with failing HICAS so I would suspect they are starting to reach their design life expectancy. Unfortunately the 32 has hydraulic HICAS operated off the power steering, and when the sensors/computer faults it sends the rear steering a bit silly. Some get permanent steering wheel offset in one direction after 7-10km, some get unpredictable changes left and right and some have a fault that comes on then goes after slowing or stopping or turning off the car and restarting. 33's are starting to cause a few headaches but they just turn on the light and the rear rack, which is electrically operated, defaults to centre. I am yet to hear of a 34 failing. In the 33 the power steering is electrically variable and becomes more firm at over 80kmh. It is reported by some that disconnecting the HICAS computer results in occasional heavy steering at low speed but I have not experienced this and still have the HICAS computer connected, with the warning globe pulled. What is clear is that the changes to the steering in the 32 are caused by the rear rack changing position as this behaviour is removed with a lock fitted. I suspect that some of the steering wheels fitted are not aligned correctly or the steering angle sensor is susceptible to being even one turn out of alignment (due to fiddling when fitting the wheel), but I haven't tested one yet. My guess is that the wheels fitted in Japan may have been slightly out of alignment and the next time a wheel alignment was performed the mechs aligned the front wheels, then adjusted the tierods until the steering wheel was centred which causes the HICAS to fault. Ultimately, HICAS is just a pain in the ****, especially on the track.

Shane, 1. central on the thread or so the bar doesn't foul is good but ensure the pressure on the nolathane is firm as previously mentioned. I would recommend getting Centreline to balance them so there is no preload left or right. If there is any slight twist due to manufacture or installation the bar will preload one wheel slightly and upset the handling a little. 2. the settings are hard toward the bar and soft toward the end. I have mine set at fully soft on the rear and fully hard on the front. You may not notice a significant difference until you get the front on and both set to complement each other in a balanced way. You have 3 settings with the 2 holes at the rear. Full hard - both toward the bar. Medium - with one each way. Full soft - with both toward the end. On the front, if you have the 4 hole bar, you can configure similarly for greater control over setup. These are the scriptures according to Sydneykid, guru of all things suspension. locosam, the bars will generate more grip due to better contact of all 4 tyres, but not as much as sticky tyres. I have found that the Dunlop DO1J tyres were good foor 5 seconds a lap at PI for me, and maybe more if they were mine and I was willing to push them harder (didn't want to flat spot Roys tyres) but the bars (and a better tune/more power) gave me an improvement of 5 seconds at Sandown where the power and getting it to the ground out of 3 critical turns is more important. I would expect(hope) the combination to be worth greater than the sum of the two and provide 9-10 seconds at PI but am yet to test the theory. Since you wouldn't drive everyday on semi-comps, do the bars as they are cheaper than the tyres and last forever. The tyres may be destroyed faster at the track by not having the bars.

Good tyres, good suspension, what more do you need? Great times Brutus

Listen to MMM but with this weather I'm staying home and thinking of Queensland.

You are right so with NRB it's that the wheel is most likely centred when parked with the front wheels dead ahead (as it would be for installation), but the indicator switches off at different positions left and right which shows the column is not properly aligned. the HICAS computer senses this and after 7-10km goes into fault mode, causing the steering offset. The way to determine which is to check the tie rods. If they are equal length then the steering shaft has been rotated.

mmmgtir, that appears to be the case which is why I suspect the column or the tie rods. Nick, I screwed up. I did get an email from you and cleverly filed it under HICAS and didn't look there so accept my apology. I was looking into getting the hoses made up or at least providing all the sizes of fittings to make buying them easier. Still haven't done that yet so don't have an answer to your question. To answer the question quickly here for the benefit of others, the hydraulically operated HICAS is usually just blocked off with a couple of bungs but I have heard of others that use the bender pipe. How mauch it would be I don't know.

Some think so but I never notice it.

nedb, in NRB's case as i understand, the HICAS sensor on the steering column was aligned incorrectly, to suit the wheel. Still looking for reasons as to how this was done and eliminating some possibilities but I expect the Nardi steering wheel was either manufactured wrong or the boss is fitted wrong (if it had one). What is apparent is something is not aligned correctly as the indicators are not operating symmetrically thus I am suspiscious of the offset being achieved using the steering tie rods or rotating the steering column. In your case it appears either a fault with the HICAS sensors at the rear or the computer and so the only solution I have seen is to replace either with operating parts or a lock.

Nick sorry I never got that email, and I got others that day. PM's as well. Email me again and I'll happily supply one, but I'm more concerned with the number of failed HICAS and the symptoms and not everyone want or needs the lock bar. So even though I have a fair amount of experience with the causes and corrections, my intent is not to peddle the HICAS bars through others misfortune so I'll try to address the problems here as time permits ver the next day or 2. Your steering is exhibiting the standard R32 response to the HICAS going into fault mode and then it changes the steering. Exactly why and how is not entirely clear but I feel it is the rear rack that defaults to a certain position and the steering caster then pulls the wheel over. Possibly due to the hydraulics and I don't recall this in the R33. The car will then be crabbing down the road and possibly handle crap. If the HICAS sensor in the steering wheel can be returned to the correct position then I believe it will stop the 7 km wheel shift symptom and return to standard operation as the HICAS senses the steering angle and the speed and then adjusts the rear wheels. Look for the tie rod ends being unequal and maybe different steering lock on each side as this is not correct. If all is equal then the steering shaft has been turned.

Well I have to cancel. Family matters. I will be on for that friday at Winton though if Snowie is going.

I'm guessing around $160 maybe less. Drop in and ask them.

Also it's important that you have weight on the wheels as the fronts will foul on the lower wishbone so SK's advice on the ramps is critical. Jacked up it just won't fit. Zahos, it was good for 5 seconds at Sandown so go ahead. I only had lowered springs.

NRB my guess is that the alignment is offcentre (agreeing with genesis) with the indicator doing what it does. A good wheel alignment centre would be able to fix it for a price. Jack the car up and take a look at the tie rod ends and see if they have unequal lengths of thread exposed. If they are equal then the steering shaft has been pulled out of the steering rack and rotated to align the wheel which is pretty odd as the japs are usually pretty good getting this sort of thing right. If you wanted to come by sometime I'd be happy to take a look myself and might be able to fix it. I can't believe so many people are having such problems with HICAS, but it is such a stupid idea. Marcus, do the MOMO and get a Hicas bar.

BTW Marcus, was following you along Spring Street today in the track car but had to cut through the city.

My 90% Dunlop 9000SP's cost me $100 each (usually 150) 255 40 ZR17 Northwest tyres, Reservior Newlands road. Expect to pay usual price as I'm a regular customer on a good deal.