GTRgeoff

I get mine for 100 each second hand with at least 70-80% rubber left. Shop around.

Great to hear Greg. From GTR comparisons that's a bit over 200rwkw so nothing wrong with that. I bet there is a big smile on the dial Don't break nothin' at the drags. Lets see it on track;) Pity I won't make the training day as I already booked the Maser day which is timed.

Duncan, a power figure might help mate I have 220rwkw and boost comes on at 2500rpm. Currently have the new Dunlop 9000SP and they are good enough to restrain normal to spirited driving in the wet and turn 2:00.5 at Phillip Island. I would suggest the boost solenoid earth mod in the DIY forum to bring boost on smoother and sooner. These tyres squeal if you start to lose traction too which is helpful.

Sold

There has been plenty of discussion on these topics. Since you don't take it to the track the only suggestions would be to keep the gearchanges smooth and service regularly (oil and filter every 5000km), particularly in your environmental conditions over there. Also watch for high temp days and parking facing into the sun with the intercooler catching the light as it can heat up dramatically. Otherwise, best of luck to you, that's a nice machine to have. A gated and winged sump is a good idea if you are driving hard on twisty roads or the race track. The pump should be sufficient. An oil cooler might be a good idea though and fatz and Scotsman both have a buy going for them.

The other issue is the knife edge traction in the wet on these things. Point to note, my fronts were $100 ea Continental SportContacts. Were $100 and have done 4 trackdays and daily driving duties. I still have a least one day left but may get some Dunlop 9000's as they have a little more grip. So what if I could go 5 seconds a lap faster? Roy's tyre shows signs of a gradual lockup (tyre still turning after traction is lost and then a brief lockup) but it looks pretty severe. I've had a think about this one and would recommend he get it buffed out ASAP.

Be gentle with the SA folk Roy Have a good trip.

I'm certain there would ba a logical explanation, but I changed the filter, no difference, then installed the malpassi and pfc and had the tune. Anyways it runs fine now. So do you measure your duty cycle on the injectors? I was set to upgrade mine before the next step up.

I'd agree whole heartedly if it had ever been tuned, but on the stock computer.... The only thing you have prompted me to think of is that the stock pump was buggered, so why did it then run so rich that I had to crank in so much advance? I'm still puzzled by this one. (Queue X files music)

As bob and daveo said, I also had a car that had been punted over a kerb and broke the steering box. Was never the same and crabbed but this is somewhat of an inherent HICAS pain.

I actually found that taking it a bit easier and rolling third gear at Dandenong and through the final series of corners was a bit quicker for me. Even at PI through turn 8 (after Lukey) 3rd was a better option than trying to force 2nd and control wheelspin out of the turn. I won't believe you will just sit on it snowgander. It's not in you.

This was something I found odd when I installed my GTR pump. The car was rich as buggery and I was running almost full static advance to make any power (Really). I changed the filter to no avail, but it was full of crap anyway so this was a good move. I then installed the Malpassi and drove to get the PFC installed and tuned and all was better. Strange but true. I have no explanation.

Memph, sounds like a HICAS problem. Have you removed or replaced the steering wheel recently? I have come across several instances of crabbing // due to the HICAS having a hissy fit. At about 80 kmh the power steering reduces its assistance so it isn't so easy to hold the wheel, so it feels like the wheel pulling over and the hicas turns in the same direction. R32's and R33's both do this. Sometimes the light doesn't show because it has blown or has been removed. Sometimes the computer has failed. Try to work through the obvious causes but if you have no joy then I can help as the bars I supply remove this problem completely. Good luck.

Great work again Troy, and I would have been interested, but as you say it's an expensive solution.

Not a great place for it, no. In that instance I would be off to revolution.

Try the neoprene that warpspeed recommends for down in there. You can purchase a real thermal tape from Revolution Racegear but it is expensive.

Maybe we just suck as drivers

It does seem odd, but if it happens then there is more to understand here, and I am not seeing it clearly yet. Not doubting it happens, but really want to understand how, physically, it can. With the GTR for example, if one turbo blows the other will continue to provide some boost. SAAB have done this to good effect on V6 engines running the turbo off one bank. So with one turbo still running there is a considerable exhaust velocity to overcome which should prevent any particulates being drawn back into the engine, and the turbine housing design doesn't facillitate reverse flow. Still intrigued.

No, just going by feel. the tubing was too hot to touch before and only gets warm now. I do measure temps after the intercooler and saw a max of 36 deg in the airflow after a recent session at PI, while I have seen over 55 deg before with the stock cooler.

I'll have one r33 25T

Talking to the Aust distributor of Redline he said that Redline and Mobil have an additive that allows the oil to be run at lower pressure and it will boil at higher temp (700 vs 400) and so will last longer. 25000km per oil change for the turbo on track.

It's true, that was me. Was coming over the finish line in 5th at 220kmh and POP. Off came a turbo hose. I had been stuffing around looking for a leak and in my haste left one clamp a little loose. The hose blew completely off so no forced air was making it to the engine. What I couldn't see was the flame out the exhaust as the car overfuelled due to the AFM seeing plenty of intake air. There was a slight heat shimmer but that was all. One of the flaggies was waving blue and yellow which was kinda strange as I should have got meatball, but I was just rolling around to the turn 4 exit anyway. Then in the exit lane I was told the car was on fire so I pulled over onto gravel and Al was coming down the pit lane. He grabbed the Fire Ext as I was climbing out and put the fire out (Good man Al!!). Then the fireys arrived to cool the melting plastic off with foam. I already have a price on the tail light and I will repair the rest with ally flashing for the race cred look.

I'd like to see them too if you can post them up? Any suggestions from the engine builder as to how the particles got into the oil system?

No one will care if you are taking it easy and getting to kow the track and car. Just be sensible and ease into it. Road tyres will handle it pretty well. My fronts have done 4 track days and are still pretty good even though they show a good bead of rubber on the edge of the treads from PI last weekend. I bought them 2nd hand for $100 each at about 70% remaining too.

Most brake and clutch places can source them, the rears are apparently identical to a HSV model. I think they are RDA (rotors and drums).The shims are a shiny thin plate that goes on the backs of the pads to reduce squealing but mine got warped at the back from the heat of running the rears to metal on metal at a trackday. The pads were half thickness but just disintegrated on the inside rears. Braking was still good on track but horrendous on the road with no heat. Braking feel is improved without them and they are about $200 new. Who cares about a bit of noise. They don't seem to squeal any more than before. Pads and fluid are important as well. Racebrakes RD74 front and Comp2 rear and MOTUL DOT5.1 fluid.