GTRgeoff

Sounds like Sunday works for me to watch the drags, skidpan and Airport.

exhale 32, sorry to hear it but please put some detail in my broken engine thread linked below.

Nice tyres on the track too. I use them on both my track car and my V8 soarer. Second hand $100 each with up to 90%

Very impressive grid Duncan and thanks for the package . I have to agree on driver training. I've trained a lot of drivers and truck drivers and armoured vehicle drivers as well (all on military vehicles and some skidpan work) and the no nonsense approach we took resulted in great drivers, some without civilian licenses (we never needed them then, may have changed since). I think it isn't too much for similar efforts to go into everyday road users. Tyres are such a ripoff, and shaky marketing is not helping things. That article would maybe be of value if the driver was John Bowe or someone similar.

Steve, without the cams and gears in front of me I'm puzzled. Does the GTR inlet cam have a different attachment for the gear? RB25, the cam theory will be pretty mush the same for any high lift cam. Greater acceleration of the valves and springs, and I believe the Tomei's are higher lift and similar duration to the GTR cams, so will be more aggressive with the lifters. SK has been pretty detailed in the RB26 into RB20 thread if you take a look.

Oil is always a worry, and I don't have a definitive answer to the best oil for every circumstance. What I do practice is flushing with a mineral oil every 10K-20K depending on how the oil has developed with services at 5K. More frequent if it's a bit dirty. I run the car for an hour on the road and then dump the oil immediately and allow to drain for an hour, then in goes the cheap mineral detergent oil (OMD by shell classification, usually 115 grade) and i run an hour and dump again and replace filter and fill with the current favourite. Going to go up in viscosity this week though to 60, not sure of brand yet.

INASNT with standard internals and no decompression - 320 rwkw. Does have a mighty turbo on it and engine management. Maybe he can give us the rundown on the rest.

Sydneykid, just reviving this, why did you recommend the RB26 Inlet gear?

So what happened to the 80% max rule? Dammit.

Thanks Bob. What was the run in oil used, or did you go straight to Mobil 1. I have heard that large metal particulates are very prevalent in the Mobil 1 product. From memory that is 0W 20 multigrade, which is pretty thin. Surely worth a set of Forgies while it is apart? Rocket usually have Arias in the standard sizes on the shelf and deliver overnight. (was $1300 for mine)

Merli, hope he recovers well and is back out there again. Highlights the reason for ensuring a track day is well organised and has ambo's in attendance. I can't believe they don't count the bikes out and back in again.

In that case there is no way you can race with us What club are you with and can they race in PIARC events? Time to start thinking about registering guys.

Heath thats the observed test one, yeah? Should be fine as it's higher level than the L2S most of us get by with.

Roy the killer cars at MAS this year were the Winfield GTR and the beasts on the Fang Artisits stand with Leewahs R33 GTR. I don't think anything was nearly as popular except that WRX bathtub. Kept waiting for them to fill it with water and bubbles and put the promo girls in (in bikinis, you filthy man) Sure bling keeps some people happy, but you and I know that it may be in vain since there is pretty high probability of crumping it bad on the track, so why bother. Neat clean and a clear purpose impresses me much more than chrome. If I want leather and comfort, a Soarer V8 GTLtd does me just fine. I would be troubled taking something special out too as some ignoramus would love to take out their jealousy and damage it.

I reckon they should stop pretending their bling bling Dyno Queens are *wicked* road and track machines. They may feel like they go fast, but only same way it feels fast driving an Excel with the windows down...perception and reality are worlds apart.

Roy, I'm past help mate. You may need the blocks if your offset doesn't fit that big brake upgrade.....

Straight cut, shut, weld and port match on only 2 of the flanges. You wouldn't drill and tap to suit as there may be water jacket issues.You don't want a GTR engine due to the crappy sump and the need to replace it or weld and baffle it. Seriously I think I can do it for a lot less than people think, but shopping around is the key. If I don't like it I sell it and put my setup back on and maybe even make money, and learn a little.

My advice is to get some experience swinging spanners and welding, like I did, and it's nowhere near as expensive from there as most of it is DIY. Bollocks to buying someone elses kit. Also if you can afford the time, get a mech eng degree too, helps heaps. Ultimately for you to get a workshop to do this will be very Exxy, and they'll love you for the money you'll spend.

SK, don't say stuff like that......Roy has a massive brake fetish and you're just spoiling it. Make something up, go on, be nice. I'd comment but it would all be theory and would have suggested more feel rather than less, so I'm all ears since my initial instinct were wrong. From a cycling perspective, since I was a pro cyclist, most good riders only use the front brake and stiffer calipers and NC machined rims have improved feel immeasurably, but the introduction of discs for MTB has been treated like the second coming of Peter Brock. Not comparing apples with apples but it is a massive diameter reduction and swept area reduction. We used to have big probs with melting tyre glue for the "singles" that use glue and pressure to hold them on during long mountain descents. Result was a rolloff from the rim and sudden pain....everywhere.

Why are we always lurking in the same threads Roy? I can look at a topic and bet myself that Roy will be there soon or has already been and I always win . Wish powerball was that easy.Anyway that linked thread also discusses welding of wheels which is covered under Vic Roads website and is legal according to the standards, but back to topic, blocks are legal, spacers are not (the not bolted in things) as they limit the thread capture for the nut and a whole heap of other things us engineers talk about to confuse people. R32 GTR's definitely need about 10mm per side as they look silly on standard wheels and all that guard overhang.

You are limited to an extra 20 or 25mm (can't remember which) of track width, which is centre of tyre to centre of tyre, not outer to outer, but are also limited tyre width wise. Increasing the track increases your scrub radius which puts a little extra load on the steering rack, but shouldn't break anything, and certainly won't upset suspension angles

My car is quicker.....cos it actually goes

The media demo release of GTR. The official sim for the FIA GT Racing Championship in Europe. It has MoTeC datalogging, adjustable seat position, realistic head movement, awesome force feedback through my MOMO force wheel and with my force feedback seat it is easily the most realistic car sim coming on. PC only. Can't wait for the real version to hit the shelves.

er yeh. Right direction for what exactly. Nice job he's done though. Lotta money spent an a Vl but everyone has their own strange fetishes. Pity about the weak pistons doing their thing.

Kemuta Sydney and Capital GTR in eeerm ACT for the Skylines. Can't remember for the Soarer.