GTRgeoff

Got a set almost in my hot little hands and a good tuner. Keep you posted.

LOL at Gogira. Gotta agree. Troy, go the Rb25 DE with the GTR internals and 2350 (or 2530, bah turbos. leave the stats to others). Should be heaps, but maybe a bit toey for your granny road style.

Well it wasn't Nissans flagship performer, and the engine capacity could have been larger but I don't think he had a choice. Remember Longhursts BMW was much lighter and faster on the tighter tracks.

Fair enough mate. I was remembering the times on the day from the results posted on the window at race control :Oops: Still there's plenty of options. I'm still looking for the sponsor to pay me to get a GTS25t faster than Ben's white rocket. Won't be a fun daily driver then though.

Only to some extent. As a stock car it is certainly a better starting point, but the extra engineering (call it complexity) means that when things go wrong, there are more variables to solve for and more elements to fail, when the handling balance becomes a problem, just where do you start in a 3 diff AWD complex system? The GTSt has some issues, but they are not as expensive to solve IMO and the track can be increased with good spacers, just the steering gets hard with the added scrub radius. The V8SC's are a relatively basic piece of gear compared to the GTR's having now been up close to the Winfield GTR and helped work on the Ozemail cars. Was just to keep costs in control and the expense now is optimising the rigid spec. I don't think there is any reverse snobbery about it if people want to go faster in a rwd car. It's your money guys, waste it however you like . Seriously though I do want a GTR, but choose not to put one on the track. The money is not an issue, I have just set my own goals, and being the technical type, try to do it better on a lower budget. I'm just embarassed there are old cheap nasty zeds kicking my butt...for now. I'll do it with the stereo on and the AC cooling me down As for Roy's comment on the Carrera Cup cars, have you looked at the spring rates they run? SK would be having kittens they are that hard. No way they could handle much more grunt.

IN the wet, nice, but it ain't always raining and on the racetrack they are pretty off the pace until heavily modified and then unreliability sets in. You are obviously talking about the anti social drag from the traffic light thing. From the lights sure you can launch hard, but a gts25t should eat it in third. Even an STi is easy meat if you take them in a rolling start. I say again though, in the wet, an NA Impreza will mow mw from the line:D

Snowy for interests sake, how many old Zeds are going faster than you, and isn't there a datto 1600 thats fairly quick? All are heaps cheaper options and RWD. When the GTR was supposedly king there were a few RWD cars actually quicker, the GTR used AWD launches to get in front and drive the ass off until tyres faded, then drive defensively. Winning races was the game. There was also a Ferrari in the 1:19's I thought. The black GT3 was a lady as well I recall and her husband/BF was also driving that same car and was only about a second faster than my 195kmh limited ZR tyred 1:36. All this doesn't change me wanting a GTR for the road, but as SK has posted in another thread, he is enjoying the simplicity and elegance of the RWD setup. As an opinion, I think Bens setup in a R32GTSt stripped to the same level and tuned and suspension balanced would be a couple of seconds faster.

Guys, I appreciate that comment is going to come in, but if it isn't relevant then try to restrain yourself. It may insult some people who are doing us all a huge favour by sharing their grief, and an engine failure is pretty nasty stuff when you have to be without the car for a while and are exposed to huge expense. I appreciate what may have been considered a free bump but I have had the thread stickied while I am in data gathering phase. Just to clarify, I am gathering as much data as possible so I can establish the causes of the most common failures, when they occur and under what driving/servicing conditions. I will also detail the effected failure elements and when they are likely to fail as well (say after a seizure, what the effect on clutch and gearbox may be). This kind of effort is not inexpensive, having carried it out numerous times before and had to pay for it, so usually it averages $30K-$60K (I'm doing it for love of Skylines). I need good data so please treat the thread and the contributors with some dignity, and feel free to remove any unecessary posts. I am extremely grateful to those who have shared already.

Yeah, what he said. S-A will end up doing 20 under in the right lane within 5 years I reckon LOL at SK doing rwd suspension in his sleep. When can I drop mine off????

My experiences have been with lower power figures you can drive it up to the limit easier, but there is a critical point where the power is an all consuming thing, and it bludgeons everthing else into insignificance. My experiences with 220rwkw have been positive. It is scary in the wet with my fat power curve, power and boost starts at around 2000rpm. Denham was on the money. Just putting around, you then give it a spurt and it can go anywhere (remember my tyre choice is not to use sticky's). Open areas where I can give it plenty, like on a racetrack, it is much nicer. It stays on the boil and traction is less of an issue as you are generally going well above the speed where inertia fights traction and acceleration. It doesn't feel like a weapon, but the speeds build very fast. It is however a pig off the line and I won't be winning any drag races. Make some time one weekend and we'll get out for a longer drive to highlight the issues.

Thanks guys. B-Man, how old was the engine and what was it treated like for the spun bearing? The fuel pump is also an often overlooked issue so food for thought for us all. Silver-Arrowz, did you take a look at the other components such as bearings when the engine was stripped? If so what was the mileage and how had the engine been treated up until then? Bl4cK32, another often overlooked problem. Obviously all the pistons were replaced as I see indentations in the other pistons, or are they standard on a RB20 (it's been a while)? Were there any indicators such as humming noises from the bearing at idle and when cold or was it the bolt that just clean snapped off? Was there any sign of pre-cracking of the bolt (an old dirty/rusty part of the crack and a clean area)? Also new bearings in the rebuild? How did the old ones look at 106,000km? Just edit your posts if you have the info.

Good result rep. That auto must be getting nice to drive now. Now to business..... Perth crew. Look down now...(no at my sig ). If you have killed an engine, any engine, especially nissan or have some detail on some that died, please follow the link and take a few minutes to post it up. Cheers

Team I'm still running pretty short on responses in the busted engine thread. 84 views and I'm the only poster. There are guys here who have seen the destruction and can get the ball rolling. Be honest and if necessary highlight the deficiency of the human component as with both of my engine failures.

Come on. Post and be honest. If it was the nut behind the wheel let me know that too. This should be important enough to have done several pages by now.

Should whirl like a dervish now with the plugs out. Make sure the attachments aren't causing it. Pull the belts from the AC, power steering and alternator. In fact I am highly suspect of the AC if it is fitted. Would struggle to start and kept stalling. Was the AC compressor was siezed and the clutch material in the compressor was slipping letting it run. What exactly was the noisy sound like? A tap tap tap or a grinding noise?

I have to agree wholeheartedly. There is no way road driving, even targa, is going to be as severe as a track on running the engine to limits in high G cornering. On the track the driver is constantly looking for those extra tenths so everything goes to the limit and beyond. This is also the reason I prefer to do trackdays in my car instead of road rallies as I can work toward that perfect lap, but being older and hopefully wiser I am afraid of those big trees (and bustops for MinesDatsun) off the sides of road.There is a story of a sharp dipper at Nurburgring that puts a lot of G's on the oil pickup and it has killed plenty of engines as the oil vaporises under the load. Similar to water in a vacuum, it just starts bubbling and runs bearings.

Pull the spark plugs out and see how easily it winds over. If it still seems sluggish then starter or binding of some sort. Make sure the battery is fully charged as well. drop a little oil from the sump, just 100ml and look for silver/gold flecks of metal to determine the bearing wear. And fix that cam timing......

Yeah I'm certain I'm in for PI, just have to work on the accomodation side.

Hell yeah. Whittlesea council sux the doorknob. He also sponsored a coupla rally cars so I lost a potential tyre sponsor. Gotta track him down.

The new guy at the trye place is a bit exxy so I've struck them off my list. The Tyrepower guy was great. Likewise the Mr Muffler was not helpful.

I'm also going to make some specific enquiries in Melb with engine builders regarding the failure rate of RB26's. Pity you didn't get one in at the right time. What did this build cost, out of interest?

Dead battery and starter motor? Usually bearings don't sieze like this without snapping a conrod.

I'll be talking to Rob from Creatd tomorrow and start the ball rolling with Autobarn Epping (Daniel). Stickers and airbrushing are done at Creatd by Artistic so there is another avenue. I need to talk to some track secretaries from other clubs today and tomorrow and get the letterhead. I'll then start emailing my drafts to yourself, Snowie and Roy for comment. It is all deopendent on CAMS approval so can we just get a clarification of the likelihood of that (Snowman?)?

You could but still need room underneath to work and it's bad practice to hold a load on a crane or hydraulics while someone is underneath so the brace is the best/safest solution. Also bonnet might have to come off for lifting the engine slightly so the weight can be transferred to the brace and off the engine mounts but that is a couple of minutes.

It was a good get together and some general talk of where we hope to go, but needs to be better controlled from a structured meeting perspective. This will evolve with time though. Sky put some good questions forward to help with any confusion as to what aour fees will be structured around and CAMS affiliation benefits. Shan also has a very quiet voice so we need a microphone setup. He also needs to not hide in a dark unlit street corner when waiting for a mate to come jump start his car. Lucky I saw the reflection from his glasses as I came past the second time. I don't want to say the obvious but..... glad I could help mate. I think Creatd would be interested as a northside tuning option as Melbourne is pretty large. Also Autobarn Epping is worth a try. Factory Direct Tyres and Wheels Settlement road Thomastown. Daalder Exhausts plenty road near Bell Street.