GTRgeoff

Gonna see how I pull up in the morning and maybe come for a drive up and watch a while. Anyways Roy will contact me in the morning and see how the poor old broken bastard is

Nice one fatz. What is it when it's a rental reversed into an armco? The ultimate display of giving it a go me thinks. So is it me or has Roy got a one track mind. Can't even get his mind off gettin some long enough to build some decent power *gotcha*?

NOT :wassup:

Not keeping score mate. I'm sure it will come out in the wash sometime. *warning* thread hijack Whens the GTR seeing the track?

Psyching myself upwhether or not to do a coupla runs tomorrow night at Calder...maybe. Can't bag it till ya try it.

Suggestions? Drop in on skylinegeoff for a coffee Have fun team.

Good pickup as always Enrico, thanks. Most of the runs were fourth and a couple in second and third. I do know this run wasn't taken to 8000rpm as the power drop was too great to try to improve. It's only there for track flexibility. A better turbo will make greater use of the higher limit I expect. The good news is I don't have a hand controller so won't be tempted to fiddle Pardon my cynicism but I expect that most turbo places would have no idea if they are honest, try to tell me it's crap to buy a better one if they are not honest and still expect me to pay for the privelege either way. I like the element of uncertainty and if she dies, I've got 3 other cars to drive until the twin turbo setup is installed. And why do that (TT) you ask? Because I want to.....just for fun.

I have been on the hunt for a cheaper alternative for some thermal shield and decided to try this stuff. Being the datalogger type I have been measuring the outlet temps from my Hybrid Monster FMIC and was very happy, until I put my hand on the crossover pipe and feel the temp after a hard run. All that FMIC cooling goodness wasted. This Flashtac product is available at Bunnings and maybe other hardware stores and cost about $20 for 10m. It is a layer of aluminium strip, thicker than foil and backed with a tarry adhesive substance. It did all of the piping required. I'm also a tight bastard so I preferred to weld up my own FMIC piping from 2.5" mild steel instead of ally or stainless, at least until I have my setup complete to my satisfaction. With my fetish for a twin turbo RB26 setup not yet fed, the FMIC piping is still temporary. The downside of mild is the rust, so unsightly and unprofessional so here comes the fix. The flashtac is shiny (bling bling) for the looks department, as well as rejecting radiated heat. I removed the front bar and set to work with a wire brush to remove some of the ugly rust. Then I gave it a wipe down and out came the flashtac. I pulled off the crossover pipe to wrap it as this one gets the most radiated heat so was most important. Just a slight overlap as you go along is ideal and work it flat along the way to get the look. To obtain a much smoother look rub it in with a glass bottle (beer ). Then the inlet and outlet get done on the FMIC as they are visible and that is way uncool to have rust on. I know, ponies before chromies but you gotta maintain some respect. Then back on with the front bar and happy days. No more rust and a really cool race cred finish to your FMIC piping. Now the crossover pipe just gets a little warm instead of hot to touch and as all Engineers know, thermal energy transfer is a logarithmic function dependent on the temperature differential so this is not a wasted exercise as the pipe is much cooler even if still *warm*. I would normally measure temps and stuff but the fingers are sensitive enough to tell the difference here. An afternote is that the tar adhesive does get tacky in the warm engine bay, but I am yet to see any actually melt out from its location. I bags NOT removing it from the pipe ever as it will be a solid gold Biatch. Enjoy in moderation. I take no responsibility for anyone silly enough to put this on their bling bling expensive polished piping as there will be a massive effort to clean off. DO NOT PUT THIS ON EXHAUST PIPE, please!!

Thanks and...it is Wicked.

Back with a result, the dyno map is in another thread I started but my money got me 220rwkw with the mongrel no breed turbo $250-300 is the going rate from Creatd and I am very happy. Visit my thread for more. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=45419

Well I finally got around to getting a PFC so I could make the most of my setup. The turbo was sourced for $600 from Rigoli in Sydney when I killed one. I was told it was modified a bit. Suggestions are that a HKS 2350 (correct me if wrong, I am no turbo fetishist) will supply this kind of performance so for the price I am real happy. Since the turbine spec is unknown I will remain limited to 15psi max. The build consisted of: Arias Forged Pistons 1.0 mm OS (1300) GTR rods with fresh bolts (400) ACL heat treated race bearings (120) Balance, clean and O ring block etc. including straighten of crank and lightening. (1100) GTR fuel pump (180) Malpassi Rising Rate fuel reg (120) Standard head gasket (90) Cam belt (90) RB30 seals (60) JustJap 5 puck sprung brass clutch (550) Hybrid Monster FMIC (700) piping (120) new Mig welder (700) Autohouse Tsukasaki PFC (secret) Dump and front combo 3" with Fujitsubo "Jasma" 3" stainless system and racing cat also fitted. Total of the critical bits was 4200 (4800 with turbo) . My labour was 25 hours. It was running OK sometimes on the stock 'puter but I had to fiddle timing and TPS and idle so not optimal and I couldn't gurantee the performance without doing some changes that left it idling at almost 2000rpm. I went to see Rob at Creatd near Broadmeadows for the tune, which was a co-effort (mostly Rob but good to see 2 pros working together) with Danny of Brusciani Racing as they have the dyno as part of a working arrangement for fabrication. Brusciani have probably the fastest street registered VL turbo in the country with a high 8 and they intend to hit the Calder strip tomorrow night (9 Jul 04). The result of the tune was an awesomely driveable (4th gear dyno chart) 220rwkw non shootout mode with peak boost of 15psi, so there is margin for dyno-queen numbers on shootout . Tunes like this can be had for a few hours effort and about $250-300 depending on the starting point. I also had the redline lifted to almost 8000rpm as the engine was built to take it. Power drops over 7000 but it is for the track where I can avoid gearchanges and just rev a bit higher between corners. While there is nothing quite like doing it yourself, tuning is one for the experts and this dyno run was repeated time after time with the great AFR's displayed. I can absolutely recommend Creatd for their tuning and was impressed by the range of cars in the shop and the clever ideas that Rob can apply to your machine. If the turbo eventually goes I will chase a bit more power with a brand name blower but will also do the injectors. Still have some handling to sort out. The quest continues. The other change I am looking at is a set of GTR turbos and perhaps plenum and throttlebodies. I spent a bit of time yesterday measuring up and comparing and it won't be too hard at all.

No-one with a clue is going to doubt the cred of your car Leewah, and it sees the strip. That much power takes some coconuts to unleash too . Takes a bit to pilot that sort of power on a circuit and they were running decent numbers in the winfield GTR's. The benefit is in just get the handling OK for the corners then feed it in the straights (so I am told but I have zero experience there) to sledgehammer the opposition. Longhursts BMW was killing them in the corners. All told a drag setup will not suit corners well anyway. Show cars though......sparkles are for bloody fairies. Fangers and SAU showed 'em at MAS

Buy any serious performance vid with the mandatory "show car with big power on the race track" and laugh until your sides hurt. My votes for MRCRX and that stupid jungle Swift. The drivers...well.....couldn't drive a greasy stick up their own dates, regardless of the amount of practice they have, let alone pilot their rice tubs.

Just a tacho feed so you rev to the rpm for shift and set. No need to actually drive IMO.

Care to share that DoughBoy?

I think real power is not rice (just to clarify my recent drug induced ramblings) even if it is just a dyno sheet. Rice is a fiberglass bathtub WRX with less power than a stock rex even though it has a BIG shiny hairdryer.

I'm hunting more power but the choice of PFC was so i could detune for road use and then get back on the track with the full tune.. The really scary thing about a lot of power is the goddam corners come up so quick and with more power you are braking so much earlier and not getting the same benefit as on the strip or the rollers. Catch 22. My view is a car is to be driven/raced. If all you want is a dyno queen (no offence to you doughy as you obviously are getting on the track) than just bring the thing in a trailer and forget the car, you can then bolt up the engine to the engine dyno and not pretend you can actually drive it. And threads about rice are only rice if you make them into stickers and put them on your car:D

Mmmmmm datalogging Just waiting on the call for when the dyno is free. There's a race buggy on it and it gets priority as it is racing this weekend, which I'm happy enough waiting for as I have plenty of times spent my hard earned on race entry fees and worked until a few hours before to make it.

Snowie that is a tough blow. I learned today that on top of GTR33 box being compatible with GTR34, it also is that same 'box as the 33 GTS25t just different gear ratios inside. How cheap is a GTS 33 box? 600-700 Better give the scoobi a whipping then.

Gojira. I understood you could set a pre-determined lambda value for the load point and it would self learn to a certain extent. Had exclusive access to a couple of the MoTeC people for a whole day as we use their product in some of our military applications. Trying to get the 'company' to pay my way on their tuning and race engineering courses. Great gear but way to rich for my pocket.

Thats right, snowboarders being the Way Kool shredders they are ride a board even though they are strapped to it. Don't mind the board but prefer to ski. Good one though. Sucked me right into thinking you were a snow NOOB and got my ass owned. We rarely get snow here, it's more...ummm...very light hail that instantly turns to ice rink Damn, I wish I could make it along.

I should have dyno prints from tomorrow so anyone wants to see them I'll bring them to NDSOC meeting at Whitehorse Hotel. I've seen a few Creatd cars and they run pretty hard. Simon I'd guess Ben is just hunting the perfect tune. I believe new MoTeC has self learning so can deal well with climate changes.

Quoted around $250 by Creatd up north here so I will see how they go tomorrow morning and post back.

I'd say on the stock boost you would find little gain with the stock dump, but the response would likely change. At higher boost there is a definite change with the BATMBL style in the midrange and the exhaust note.. I'd sell the expensive engine pipe and probably pay less for the combined dump pipe and come out ahead. They are easy as hell to fit but make sure you use anti-sieze paste on the threads. In reality, when you look at the turbine outlet and the wastegate outlet diameters I see little need to go split on the standard turbo. There is a definite flow impedance designed into the stock dumps however.

or 33's Great thing about rwd is no broken gearboxes Andrew I'd be happy to check it out and just as happy to rig a high intensity LED to that little shift lamp, maybe in the line of sight so you can see it at warp seven. Take about an hour and $1.50 in parts.