GTRgeoff

Denham good luck Just remember not to tell the cops what your defence is specifically. Just that you wish to defend your innocence. Then hit them with the physics in court and see if they can deal with it. If you do tell them they will bring expert witnesses to try to shoot you down and if guilty you will pay for their attendance. PM me if you want to talk to a mech eng mate or mob 0408 124 767

Looks great. cheap laptop and decent tuning software. Who needs a hand controller!

I vote for Sunshine and try to do it short notice, say 4-5 days in advance to determine weather conditions. I have raced there in the wet though and it was awesome. Also taken the race kart out in the wet and discovered spin that politicians would lust after.

I would agree with Merli. many quick cars fail to meet potential due to drivers. Personally i classify handling as the dynamic response to input eg. rapid changes in direction while braking/accelerating, and it is not really quantitative but more qualitative from an individual perspective. Grip I classify as more a steady state situation, such as testing on a skid pan or drag racing. Ever see a drag rail try to turn a corner? But they have massive grip. Great book though. Has that excerpt i posted on tyre grip. See below for *ehem* handling....note the body roll on that fat barge

BigDatto, thanks for the plug. I found I noticed the rear subframe moving around a bit on track after the lock bar went in so I need pineapples of alloy lock spacers. The fitting is easy but you need a wheel alignment after (just to whiteline specs for toe) and the light will come on but you could pull the dash and remove the globe.

They have a great one on Autospeed

One of my staff has one (928) and it is a nice car and will hang with a stock R33 GTSt. There is also something like a 964 that I was blasting by at the last track day...all race prepped for targa/tarmac rally but i was a second a lap quicker on street rubber and 195kmh speed limited. Be nice with turbos though.

Troy you need to borrow my text on Race Car Engineering and mechanics by van Valkenberg. I'll bring it to the next club meeting. Bet you have trouble putting it down.

Ha ha T. The trick is not to have broken ring lands on multiple pistons for 2500km There is a company in melbourne does ally containers split at halfway would be ideal for BigDatto's design, and cheap too. I'll hunt around and find the brochure and post later. My catch can was an early prototype by a mate in ACT and has swirl inserts in the top similar to a dry sump oil/air separator or centrifugal air filter on a truck. It spins the gas as it enters and allows it to settle before it comes up to the vent to atmoshere. After driving Tanks for 2 years that use more than 2L per km I could care less for the tiny amount of contaminated GH gas mine emits. Just a baffle is not going to do much in getting the gas to drop oil but combinations of accelerators and scrubbers will. Researched a similar problem for helicopter dust filters on Mil aircraft for my thesis but decided I didn't want to have sh)t to do with the aviation industry.

Latest Goodyear Eagle F1 have a AA wet braking rating and seem pretty good compared to the others I have used on the rear. Also Continental SportContact on front were good at my last race with nice feel and predictable breakaway. I pay $100 per tyre so go through them quick with an agressive setup. Combination was better than Pirelli P6000 All in 17's 235 front and 255 rear

Having a few extra kg to haul I never touch the low power indoor karts, but seriously recommend ACE in sunshine for races/timed laps and Somerton for the quickest hire karts in Melbourne. These are almost as quick as the old clubman kart I raced, just with a centrifugal clutch. Last time out I completely destroyed a left rear and was wrecked afterward. About $40 for 10 min (or was it 30-35) but a serious test if your are a little unfit as I have been with ruptured disc troubles for 8 months.

But don't leave it over tensioned when you run it. Makes a nasty whizzing noise. Gotta support Warpspeed here, as this is one area of engine building that is often overlooked and is critical to maximising torque, all other elements being 100%. Once you have determined the crank/cam relationship you can maintain the optimal angles throughout the engine life, if you are that keen to do so. Really only needs to be done once or twice though for streeting as the belt stretch should not be enough to be critical in itself, but you do need to establish the baseline. Possibly just as easy to spend a little longer on the dyno and compare some variations on a common tune, then fine tune the best torque setup. If the belt is stretching that much, or you are chasing enough power to really be at the sharp edge, it's likely more frequent belt changes are warranted.

Certainly if you don't wish to fit a lock system I would pull the wheel off and get it all straight, so the system works properly. I would seroiusly doubt there will be permanent damage. Is the steering wheel straight when you drive? If so is there more lock one way than the other? (means the steering rack has been off and replaced and not centred when aligned)

I have the light on permanently until I pull the globe from the dash. This is because I removed the HICAS unit and fabricated a replacement bar for improved track handling....no problems. I would suggest also that the HICAS will centre and lock if the steering wheel input was wrong. Duncan...you been drinking mate? Stop scaring the guy. Shan, the 32's are hydraulic run off the power steering rack, but the 33's are electric and won't affect the power steering. All the same the 32's feed can be blocked at the power steering rack and the HICAS replaced with a bar with no adverse effects.

Great to hear, although I am no fan of bendix, and have no experience with lucas, but am totally sold on the racebrakes stuff.With the spraying, cleaning is the key element, as well as laying up a number of coats, but I then used a gas torch to melt in the paint as some cleaners will strip the VHT off onto the driveway.

Count me in if this gets off the ground. SAU Race team engineer will look great on the resume.

James and I had a quick bite together when we didn't see anyone else waiting about. I was there from 12:30 wearing a Vic Rugby referee's jersey (yellow and blue) and james was running a little late...sans tee shirt.

So smoothe is near the BMW dealer? sms me pls on 0408124767 as i am out the door now.

DJ save your money. About $500 - 600 for a full set of slot front and plain vented rear (you don't need slots there) and allow 300 for racebrakes pads full set. Call Lalor brake and clutch as I am real happy with my braking on the track (except when the old pads self destruct on the rear) I will guarantee that with the same tyres and no ABS you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the wanky name brand stuff and the BDA (not DBA) discs. Just do the pads over the phone and racebrakes won't know you.

Soft???? Who's sookin' about with AWD then? Skaife reckons for real control you gotta have RWD crumpledore (wanker) Gotta say the GTR fuel pump pushes way too much juice into the 25. Running maximium static advance until the computer is installed and still no detonation but occasional bogging from overfuelling, or wheelspin in third

Someone want to make a time for tomorrow? We missed you last night James. No fireworks but boring and long. I left at 10pm and they were still rambling.

SAVE THE GRASS man. Is the belconnen ridge road in yet from mitchell?

only cos you whore yourself around so much

just not holding your tongue right........... sorry can't help, but free bump

Would have been the preference, but I didn't get a definitive answer on a replacement item so the stocker was the only solution. Slugs still under $1300 delivered o/nite from Rocket?