GTRgeoff

Steve did you get that made? Problem is the thread is not too common and the tap is pretty expensive being 16mm and extremely fine. I can fix it for you (NC) if it is not already tapped/drilled out to 16mm, just PM me and I'll let you know where to send it.

Yeah I was talking about cold. So which forgies cracked when cold?

Is this anywhere near Epping..home of the fullsik commodore...just add HSV sticker to back window..the more crap the car, the bigger the sticker. I'd need to get takeaway pizza to make it home without starving.

Hi all I think you'll find that as soon as someone plays with extra boost, they'll knock off a few degrees of advance. Makes it feel real sluggish, especially cold, but you can run more boost safely for more top end power. I fiddle with mine almost daily and the difference pre-boost is very noticable. I try to get the advance up just enough to be drivable, without onset of detonation on boost. Kinda walkin the tightrope but i need lower end response, not top end.

A PM has revealed the dancer to be the infamous Snowman....and James was simply shooting up in the background, not dancing.

No pics but the bar is just a holllow bar with 2 tabs for attachment, one elongated for ease of alignment and threaded ends for the tie rods. I'll put together instructions as well as there is an easy way to install and a hard way.

Sorry, yes it's for the 33 GTS25t. On those the HICAS is electric motor actuated, so no hydraulics like the 32. Not sure on GTR33 tho.

Might have to drop into that too. Have a good one.

Had to be done. See you at the MAS Sunday morning?

Guys I fabricated my own replacement bar from mild steel and installed it, then went to the nearest place for an alignment. The result for me was noticeably improved control at and beyond the limit of tyre adhesion, however I now have to install sub frame lock rings as the rubber bush deformation is highlighted to a greater extent. I can feel the rear move away from the corner before it responds. The downside is the Hicas light is on but I will remove the bulb when i get around to it. I'd be happy to supply anyone who wants one for a reasonable price, say $100 including delivery and I'll make a donation to SAU of $10.

The SAU Vic Sheriff's office is seeking information on the pictured suspect. A known associate of the SAU Vic underworld figure James AKA Jamezilla AKA Golgo who is suspected of forming a "skyline force of extraordinary magnitude" to expand his evil empire. The person in the background is suspected to be said crimelord, James, however this is unconfirmed due to the lack of photographic evidence. The pictured individual is allegedly threatened with Dancing Lessons due to his overindulgence of the 'pointing' method when on the dancefloor. He has also been accused of using 'the clap' when dancing to melodies other than "The Bus Stop" and authorities believe he is in need of close personal protection and counselling. Please do not approach this individual, as it is reported he will melt at any provocation, causing extreme frostbite to all within the immediate vicinity.

Make sure they haven't disconnected the sender connection on the oil filter block, under the intake manifold. Mine goes off the dial when cold and drops to 2 at idle when fully warmed up and will go over 6 on the track at full noise. It all depends on how many kays the engine has done and what your oil level is. I let my oil level get down too low and it dropped to those low pressures, then a big end bearing ran. The bearings were old tho.

Is james spending any of the loot on his stand up comedy lessons?

I use the Just Jap 5 puck ceramic with the sprung centre. Drives mostly like standard except reverse parking up a hill when it shudderd a bit and can rattle when disengaged in those cases. Good take up, not too hard and will bite enough to chirp third pretty hard on standard boost. Being ceramic, on a hard launch, even as you ride it it will take up very suddenly after a little slip and away you go.

Don't know. It would just get dirty in mine anyway.

98r33....no drinking before riding....you might fall off. Got enough toys? Thanks James, he is the master.

I still have all the parts, was eyeing off the guage holder for some severe butchery but other jobs have given it a stay of execution. It's yours if you want it. EnricoPalazzo, the wheel has a Hicas boss and fittings for the horn. All negotiable.

Thx P1e

James it's lucky the Comedy Festival is on, where are you booked this week?????

Welcome Jordy.

This sounds crap, and I'm no drag fan. What I would like to see is something similar to sports fields, just in industrial centres where noise won't matter, for cars. Imagine, if you will, a huge expanse of tarmac. Nicely barricaded for spectator safety, within reason, and big enough for 60 foot practice with a slow down and mild drifting or driver training. The [local] govt provides sports fields for the conduct of dangerous activities such as footy (ever played rugby union and been at the bottom of the ruck?) but nowhere to do those socially unaccptable things such as learn vehicle control at or beyond the limit of adhesion, which would stop a lot of people driving too fast in the wet for example. It would remove most of the unacceptables from the streets and as long as it is maintained to a reasonable standard be for the use of the general community on the grounds of no liability to the provider of the facility. Needs no watering either. I know when they shut down the 1/8th mile drag in ACT the kids went to the streets of Braddon which they were shutting down hard and threatened consfications. I was there having dinner one saturday night and the cops arrived just before we left and closed off the streets. We got pulled over and Gestapo interrogated. I showed my restaurant bill and then threatened legal action and complaints to the Ombudsmans office (who's exec assistant was in the back seat) and they let me go, they just handed fines to everyone in a 'hot' car as they left. Suspicion was I HAD to be involved because I was in a lowered Soarer with 17" wheels. I like the idea of getting it off the streets, but a high tech solution is not the answer. Anyone else got thoughts?

I had time last night to space it further off (the crank angle sensor (CAS)) and run the car and the bad tap has gone but I had the sensor off by 1 tooth which retarded it bad so I pulled full advance on the CAS but it was pretty sluggish. Also the rpm drop when tightening the retainer bolts has stopped. I'll get back with more once I have fixed this problem.

Recently I took upon myself to remove the cam gear cover and run without it. The need to see things moving was too strong I suppose but have today made a discovery.....and not good. When I was remounting the optical timing unit I noticed that the bolts were pushing through too far and would contact the cam gear as it rotated so I put in a couple of spring washers behind the timing unit to stand it off a little. A mate of mine copied my setup almost exactly, which I noticed a couple of weeks ago when I was checking his cam timing which a quality mechanic had told him was 40 degrees out (wanker), it was spot on. What had occurred was the positive locating piece on the end of the cam had snapped off, meaning a bit of double checking befor refitting the timing unit, and I thought no more of it. Today, after some annoying surging I replaced the fuel filter, which as usual was full of crap, but there is still a little roughness, a miss, at around 2500 rpm but it changes a little by plus or minus 200 rpm with temperature. It is so noticeable through the gearstick I was concerned about balance in the engine......but these things don't just go out of balance over a couple of weeks so can that idea. So anyway the plugs have been replaced, the ignition coils are running at 1.3Kohms of resistance and the fuel filter is new. The malpassi is fitted but not turned up (until tuning with the PFC) so it has no effect and the GTR fuel pump is singing and pumping strong as you can see the hoses flex under the pressure. I decided to pull out the mechanics stethoscope and have a bit of an explore around the engine...the injectors are tapping away and everything sounds sweet but there is a little miss and it is noticeable at 2500 rpm when standing outside the car from the exhaust outlet. So then I run along the exhaust side and decide to stick it on the timing unit and it is tap tap tapping REAL loud and in time with revs even as the revs lift. Not easy to hear elsewhere but right on the module it is scary. Now I pulled it off and discovered the same has happened to mine, the locating lug is broken and the faces at each end are shiny from rubbing. So I think back to something strange that occurs when I fiddle with the timing....the revs pick up when I back off the 3 locking bolts for the timing unit, and drop again when I tighten them. So I suspect that I have jammed the operating parts together inside the unit, causing the tapping and the change in idle speed. I will have to wait until the roads dry to determine if putting extra spacers in will fix it, or if I need a new timing unit from the wreckers, as in the wet it will just be a wheelspin session (yep it's raining in Melbourne) as the car is mostly making really good power past 3000rpm on stock boost...like just spinning up in second in the dry with over-enthusiastic throttle operation, but sometimes it just goes all sluggish, usually when the engine gets nice and hot after a good 30 mins of driving. But then it can change and goes wham with the power again. So if you have done the same to your engine, and haven't spaced the timing unit far enough off the mounting bracket, just be cautious until I get to the bottom of this. I will post back with developments.......

Huge trailer factory in Thomastown just on eastern side of railway station if you want new. Try the racing websites (through CAMS) and mags as they are always advertising private sales of car trailers.

The manual states the harmonic balancer bolt is 446-466N.m or 329-344ft.lb. To undo it use a 1/2" drive socket with a breaker bar and locate the bar against the front chassis cross member under the radiator (requires radiator removal) so it is firm. Take car out of gear, keep hands clear and make sure ignition module is disconnected, then turn the key to start and wind over briefly. this will crack off the bolt tension allowing easy removal. Alternatively, place car in gear and try to muscle it off. Make sure handbrake is very tight or a friend holds brakes on.