GTRgeoff

Cobo unless the ECU has advanced self improving features, not just basic self learning and protection, that attempt to extract maximum power at all times, you will find almost no difference with a higher RON/MON fuel. The possibility is an improvement in fuel economy. I am currently discussing a race fuel sponsorship deal for a new product on the market that is a measured 101.9RON and 92MON (motor octane number) which meets CAMS limits for racing fuel in my class. This product achieved an 11% increase in peak power without retuning in a stroked VK V8 that gets run on track days. Obviously carby fed cars will benefit immediately, electronically managed cars you need to make some changes. Specifically, I will be looking for an increase in boost and an advance in timing only to realise the extra power. If it requires a full remap I won't be running the fuel...simple. My reasons being the $95 per 20 litre price tag and the complexity of running a different fuel map in the PFC. I would be running the fuel during race only, then pumping it out into a container and refilling with Mobil 8000 and returning to almost stock boost and timing. We will be conducting a dyno test of 8000, 8000 with toulene at different percentages and the race fuel to determine the differences, for the purpose of advertisement and to establish road and race trim. There are plenty of threads on here if you ish to explore the idea further.

Bugger....I missed this completely. I had a great day at Ikea.......bluuuuuuurg.

Get a grip petal....it's a paint job and some spares bolted on. Rip the folks in the general market all you like, but be realistic on here. Making a post on here makes you open to comment....and mine is that it's overpriced, but I was only one of the early low volume importers from Japan, befroe yo had a license for you tricycle I 'spose. As far as too expensive for me...well where did I leave that other mill of property? Hope you get a sale 'kid but think long and hard about a donation to the forum if it comes through here and state it up front.

Since BP Ultimate is not anywhere convenient for me, I use Mobil 8000. when I was running at the limit with a stock intercooler I found I needed to turn boost down on Optimax or pinging would occur. Don't have an opinion on BP yet.

compared to that yes...but not nice to try to rip people on this forum. If he did get a sale he should at least donate a 4 figure sum to Prank for the forum

Hey, that will teach me to knock over a bottle of wine then get on the forum....... get the HICAS bar anyway

Why not just AXE the ATTESSA and buy a replacement bar from me, then pull the globes from the annoying warning lights. No ATTESSA, no problem...works for me on the track.

even the new owner of Phillip Island raceway...Lindsay Fox won't have the new Roller....but a Maserati would be nice. I read the Evo mag articles on the Aston they have and it is sweet.

Yeah but she does have a real nice set of wheels (meaning the whole car package), is blonde, is a Qld girl, and has a TO4.......can see the ad now.....LOST!!! Blonde girlfriend, dog and TO4. Reward for TO4 and dog!!! Last seen cruising with SAU.:drooling: Welcome Anna32....wish I was home in Qld :cuss:

Neither am I ........ WICKED avatar dude. There may be some adjustment on the slave mounting slots/holes, but it has been a while, but the best bet is a bleed first

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Maserati event sounds good and PI is a long drive. I'll book the cruise then as I want to get to Hanging rock, which is looking a clear winner. My brake checks are usually a bleed out and a few stops from 200kmh to make sure the pads are bedded in after idling around the city for a month.

I'll grab the XL black. [email protected]

Haven't had me along yet then Isn't this MSCA race weekend at the Island on Sunday?????? I'll possibly be servicing and checking brakes etc.......

Autospeed do reviews occasionally that you can search. You can buy each article of interest or ask someone who is subscribed really nicely.....

My fear is bad fuel from the servo, which i have had before. Foolish to push that far in the opinion of some but this was so bad the engine was producing no power and lotsa black smoke and burned $20 worth in 30km of driving in town. Refuelled at a different servo and it was back to normal. Had a bad batch a few weeks later and about 3 km away from the servo the engine detonated and cracked 4 pistons. I'm a bit more cautious now after a refuel but you could never prove conclusively for a reasonable cost the fuel was faulty. Water will just protect it a bit more.

Free bump These rock, I have a set from Clint on the race car and it grips now like the proverbial S**t to a babies blanket after getting a decent wheel alignment. Just screwed a little extra caster on and ....BABY!!

There is some good detail to read here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=34860 I believe the 25 rod will be weaker at the bottom of the neck due to the lack of material used which was discussed in the thread below. I am yet to get off my butt and FEA the rods. RB26 rod http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=10064 RB25 rod http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=10063 Thread on the 26 rod limits http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=31078

Going with the minimum customer involvement has to be the way to go for reasons I stated earlier. Hard enough to get people to fill the fuel tank except the car stops, so how would they be with water to stop the engine dying? Warranty department would be kept very busy. That doesn't mean WI isn't worth using for those after the extra edge or added protection, and anyone willing to go that little bit extra will maintain fluid levels for their performance, especially those of us who race. The V8SC team I have worked for are meticulous about pulling apart everything conceivable the night before the race and checking and checking and checking, and then something just up and breaks anyway.

This engine would be good for over 300 rear wheel kW for quite some time, and launch a 1400kg car from 0-100kmh in under 5 seconds consistently, but more important, pull 200kmh in around 11 seconds. With 30% drive loss that equates to about 430 kW at the flywheel or close to 600hp (what our 5 litre V8 supercar racers put out). Consider the 5.7 V8 in the HSV here is only 300 kW with a 1800kg car, this is a serious piece of machinery. Also the more cylinders, the more work to get high rpm. The available tirque of the nissan RB's usually means you don't need massive rpm, but i want the flexibility on the racetrack. The cost is not high. The machine work was $1200 AUD...less than the Arias Forged pistons. Honda do a fairly good engine, but they won't stack up to the potential of the nissan RB series 6 or the toyota 6's with forced induction, which have pushed more than 1000hp (1300 in one case). Their S2000 engine is a treat though.

My own experiences with mazda BP NA engines revealed them to be a good stout engine, until I whacked a load of oxygen, extra fuel and water in and started to pull flat 7 second 0-100kmh runs with FWD.......then they start to hurt but my lab tests indicated not only higher BEP overall but also very much higher peak combustion pressures, almost like detonation with the oxygen injection although the spike appeared better controlled. (Hint: use an in cylinder pressure transducer) Perhaps you didn't consider a failsafe location for the water injection back then??? It should be the number one priority. As someone who may have developed a DIY water injection kit, how could you recommend going straight to the most expensive commercial kit available without sharing your experience??? You jump straight to devils advocate as a reason to shoot down other DIYers without qualifying yourself.....pretty unsharing. So share your wisdom and experience....we're waiting. Perhaps suggested volumetric flow rates vs capacity @ rpm and how to determine flow rate. Maybe the types of spray nozzles used. Where did you source your supply pressure and locate reservior? How does water injection allow determination of RON and MON? Not something I have ever considered so I am interested in that.

While the cooling effect is welcome, and the alcy can add to the fuel charge somewhat, the presence of the atomised water is considered the major detonation suppressant. I am yet to see a truly convincing study into the cause of the phenomenon, but suspect it is closely related to the thermal capacity of water and the energy absorbed when it converts to steam in the combustion chamber (latent heat of evaporation). If you do go alcohol, use isocol or denatured ethanol mix rather than straight ethanol water mix, as the website provided by meshmesh states, because the straight ethanol is a bit harsh on things it comes into contact with.

He's half right meshmesh, it is like pissing in a fan. The urine passed is at body core temp but when it hits the fan and is atomised and blown back you will cool off. definitely has benefit though for the right situations. Say for staging at the drags and you have a fan pulling air through the cooler. Now if your intercooler or bank balance is marginal for application - say you want to do a few drag runs without a large outlay of cash - a water spray over the small cooler with a low thermal capacity to sink a lot of heat energy will allow you to run higher boost for longer. My own data capture relating to this is significant in terms of the lower maximum temperature out of the cooler, the rapid temperature drop after a run and the lower than ambient starting temp, all contributing to a bit more boost and more advance = performance for almost no outlay. Ultimately this is limited by the cooler flow capacity and the amount of water that can flow over it, but by then a number of other elements start to inhibit power increases so wholesale upgrades of exhaust and cooler as well as turbo may be necessary. Putting an 800hp capacity Hybrid FMIC and temp logging was very enlightening. The sheer capacity of this big sucker to transfer heat out of the air charge is amazing. On a 26 deg day the temps went to 31 just cruising at low speed but on a power run they dropped rapidly to within 1 degree of ambient in a matter of seconds due to the increased air flow over the cooler. With water spray the initial temp is lower than ambient from the get go, but thus far has not been a problem.

It's probably on the limit with stock pistons and marginal with lightweight forgies. I'd suggest most of your parts are available on this very forum, such as GTR rods (which I got for $300 AUD for the lot). I also sourced bearings locally from ACL using their heat treated race series of RB30 mains and SR20 Big Ends (tricky huh?). Sk suggests the stock cams are okay as well, and the lash adjusters will pump up slightly at that rpm but not enough to make a real difference. It's not some crap subaru motor . Just clean up the combustion chambers and maybe port match but otherwise leave the head alone. Worth doing the seals as well and RB30 oil pump seals are about $20 each and also fit the cams, while the rear main is also RB30 compatible at $25. The key was getting a really good engine shop to machine, 'O' ring the block, balance everything and x-ray as well as straighten the crank slightly. A good enlarged sump and baffles/gates will be of benefit for you particular application as well.

I'll take this opportunity to disagree with you quite strongly on every point you have made except regards aquamist. As a mechanic and Engineer of very broad experience I am less prone to the blunt statements of "tuners" whose livelihoods rely upon reliability and repeatability, for good reason. Hence they will not be willing to work toward novel solutions. Back up your statements with fact and experience or refute my own, if you have the knowledge. Otherwise you are just being negative without the education to make a difference and detracting from the thread. As a known detonation suppressant, there is little to surpass highly atomised water which means that in almost every situation tuning on the edge of the particular systems abilities you will make more power. The issue is cost effectiveness for the power you wish to make, and the inconvenience involved. In some cases it is a bandaid, or it can be a cost effective alternative, and there is also the combustion chamber cleaning aspect for long term operation. No-one is suggesting stuffing a garden hose in the intake and turning it on so the incompressible nature of water is not of any concern if care is taken. Atomised oil is injested via the PCV valve and we don't wet our pants about that everyday even though it is also incompressible in large fluid volumes. I hope you respond with something of value.