GTRgeoff

Go to meggala's site for good ecu pinout data

He probably has valid reasons for not being too keen, such as 'What happens if you are running a hard tune and you forget to fill the water reservior?' or something goes wrong with the system. Many guys are running good power without water, and usually because their build and tune are all good kit. Water will always add to the ability to produce more power in almost any situation, and is great if you are running a less than ideal setup as it will allow more power for low bucks, but ultimately the best bet is to build stronger and have an engine capable of more power than you want to use, as I have done now after the last failure (BE bearing). I spent over $5K on the engine machining and other componentry and did all of the labour myself, effectively getting a $10K+ engine and setup, and will only occasionally run to 8500 redline and dial in more boost and advance for track racing, while the water is on. The rest of the time is kept realistic to save the engine and licence and let the little lady drive it sometimes.

OMG....I have been shown up for the fake I really am....... You are truly harsh Rianto. Maybe my clock was a little fast. Musta been close though.

Word from the guru...the fabled sydneykid ... is that 8500 rpm is ok on the stock head, which I plan to do. I wouldn't trust the stock conrods though so I changed to GTR conrods which will be safe at that rpm and only cost me $300 plus resizing the big ends for fresh bearings. There is a thread discussing this, i think on the bottom end limit....

The pressure is relative to max boost, which is not much really compared to mechanical pumps (up to 30psi in most cases) and unless you run non return valves for an accumulator action from the boost supply the flow is variable which can cause dribbling and poor atomisation. You also need a water/air injector to blast atomise the water which are temperamental to [low] pressure. All systems will have pros and cons though and need careful thought.

Right beside the drive thru, and left north on St George. Next time dude.

This appeared to be a good system however discussions I had with Aero development engineers revealed that spraying the water in pre-turbo can have a very detrimental effect upon the life of the turbo compressor blades and their leading edge shape. Even worse on life was when they sprayed a jet (not atomised spray) directly into the compressor blades but the result was the same performance wise. This is the reason I go with the mechanical pump system which is relatively cheap and simple to tune.

I was there in a bright red R33 from 09:35 with a choccy thickshake until 09:55 cause I thought I was stood up, and rolled in at Calder just before 10:30. Even then James and the guys were a bit late but it was a great event, even if it is just lair-assin' about. Gotta admire the skill of the D1 guys. Anyways, no biggie. The end result was the same for those who went...a good day.

Usually a lot of crap and some rust forms between the crank and the fitting (cam belt drive or harmonic balancer) so spray in plenty of lubricant and wiggle and turn and assist with the screwdriver. Done a few in the last month. If you have the engine out this is a lot easier, but if it is in, and you are trying to remove the oil pump, you have to drop the sump as the oil pump has a big bolt head that protrudes from the bottom and catches on the sump. Found this out doing a quick front oil seal replacement that wasn't so quick. For replacement seals for the oil pump and the cams, the RB30 front crank seal is choice and cheap and is at REPCO.

Hey is that the RB31 powered weapon we keep hearing about in your avatar SOSK? That chassis has a bit of attitude...I can almost see daylight under the left front A gallery of the car(s) would be nice if you could put it up.

Maccas Bell and St Georges at 9:45 sounds good.

meshmesh....I just hope SK is laughing as hard as I am right now....I think I have to take the rest of the day off.

Gary gets my thumbs up. Thanks Mate. I may even be considering a new career that I had never really been considered if things work out and I get to the Claude Rouelle seminar and workshop.

I use larger at the rear on the same size rims (235 and 255) due to the incredible front traction I have with my current setup. The fronts are Continental Sportcontact 23540ZR17 and the rear are 25540ZR17 Goodyear Eagle F1 of the very latest release and they juuuuust control the oversteer nicely.

Added some lo res pics. Not allowed to buy a decent camera so had to use web cam. Something to do with how much I spent on the engine build

Have a good one guys. I have friends from Qld who just wouldn't understand (toranasaurus lover).

The oil flow to block is the feed between 2-3 to the head on the inlet side. the very front one on a 25det is the cam change and the rear (3-4) should be left as is but I am not at all sure on the rb20.

Possibly not worth the extra cost, given the AUD performance against USD. The stocker is fine for up to 120K km and is about $100 AUD delivered from Just Jap in Sydney. The annoying part is to undo the big bolt at the front of the harmonic balancer and then removing this sucker with a puller. Put it in gear with the handbrake on and undo the bolt ACW and remove. The critical part is aligning the crank at top dead centre (TDC) and the cams have an index mark that must be aligned against the rear cam gear protector plate index marks. Try to do this before removing the harmonic balancer and as a tip, remove the spark plugs to allow easy turning of the crank later. Take car out of gear. Remove the belts for the power steer alternator and A/C and the cam gear cover plate. Then use the puller to remove the harmonic balancer. Then remove the lower timing belt cover. Then the left hand tension adjuster for the cam belt on the left as you look at the front of the engine must be loosened (17mm) off and a 4mm (i think) allen key inserted and used to slack off the tensioner as far as possible by rotating clockwise, then retighten the nut to hold it. Behind the harmonic balancer is a plate, remove it from the shaft, then remove the timing belt. You can now see the water pump (easy to replace) and the oil pump that sits around the front of the crank. The oil pump requires the sump to be removed or some blatant butchery to remove as it is the front attachment for the sump and has a large bolt head protuding below into the sump. Leave this alone if the oil pressure is fine. I have never had a water pump fail either. Double check the alignment of the index marks. there is one now that can be seen on the crank timing belt drive which points to a v in the oil pump housing on the deep alloy flange sitting out to protect the belt drive. Make sure the cams are aligned. Now locate the index marks on the timing belt and orient forward as marked. Align the most distant one with the drive index mark. Then slip it on and work the belt up to the exhaust cam gear and slip it on. The slack can be mounted over the inlet cam adjuster for now to hold it in place. make sure the belt is between the 2 guides halfway up the front of the engine and recheck the belt indexes on the exhaust cam and the crankshaft drive. Now the slack must be pulled from the belt between the exhaust cam and crank by holding the belt to the exhaust cam and pulling up on the left side of the belt hard until it can slip over the inlet cam gear. Recheck the indexes for everything. Don't use a screwdriver for working the cam belt as it can nick or cut it and reduces the life. Once satisfied that everything aligns, tension the belt adjuster back onto the timing belt until there is about 5 mm deflection on the belt when you push against the longest leg. Now reinsert the bolt and turn the engine one turn CW (make sure out of gear now) to ensure no mistakes or interferences are present. Remove the bolt and reinstall the front belt guide plate and the lower cam belt plate, then the harmonic balancer and its bolt. Put car in gear and tension the bolt. refit everything else and make sure all derive belts are tensioned properly with about 5mm of deflection and you should be done. Remember to always check twice. I'll read this again and try to add some more tips later.

They can be resized, as can the bore, but let me know if you still need it. $30 delivered. Surely you are not going to pot luck a single piston and put it straight in without considering a rebuild? A new set is about $600 plus rings and take about a week if you know the right person in japan. Also the bearings are about $140 and machining $250ish. All worthwhile.

It has been explained to me recently that the 25t has extra oil supply to the head compared to the 26dett. This causes oil surge and can result in some blowby oil if there is crankcase pressure due to blowby. No biggie if the oil quantity is small, but if is like 600 ml in 30 min of track time (from experience) it is time for rebuild. The oil supply can be modified as I have to mine to the same as 26dett and so far no probs.

Great for you to offer this but since many states consider these illegal, who is going to accept liability for the safe operation of the product without damage to original equipment and possible third party liability in an accident where the insurance companies will immediately jump on these as a contributing factor (we're not all engineers on here but some are luckier than others) regardless of the cause? As well, I would suggest some research into automotive and race engineering before making such a broad statement as that above. The increased kingpin offset will change the steering response and feedback in different situations, pulling harder toward the unlocked wheel in a single front lockup and giving a feel of greater understeer in hard cornering and possibly make the driver work harder, making the car uncomfortable on long drives. That said, I use a design like this for racing my 'line and would recommend them for such, but if you intend to use them on the road invest in getting them engineer approved for your state of oeration and obtain appropriate approval from your insurer. Normally I wouldn't cruel your good intentions but this is a safety matter that potential purchasers need to decide on with some facts as they could end up paying the rest of their lives for the failure of such modifications. Good luck.

What you MUST push is the self defence case. They then have to prove that was not what the excessive speed was for. A former VicPol officer and safety advisor was fined for speeding on his m/bike (camera) and claimed he accelerated to miss a ute that was pulling out and would not have been able to stop, hence the extra speed, and slowed straight away afterward. The magistrate was fuming that VicPol continued to prosecute but precedence is set for speed cameras/red light cameras and traffic up your ass and preservation of life. Ask a lawyer for help. You should have sent a letter asking for the fine to be dropped on the self defence grounds AND the police should have detained the 4WD driver for questioning due to dangerous driving and suspected car jacking. I will stress again this was self defence and you must make this clear to the Magistrate.

I can help as I have 4 0.5mm OS pistons left after my last ...ahem... misadventure. I wouldn't reuse the rings though

You seriously can't get it wrong, but I would happily show you how if you are interested as I will be having some time off. I have one to do tomorrow at 10 am on an RB20 180sx

Edit, made some changes to descriptions.