GTRgeoff

It's back!! The red barge, as pictured, is finally on the road with a freshened engine carrying Arias 80 thou forgies, GTR conrods and fuel pump (noisy bugger that has delivered 316rwkw), balance, O rings, lightened fly, desurged head oil gallery, adjustable caster rods, ACL race bearings, Hybrid 800hp fmic with piping welded by moi and SAU stickers side and rear (didn't think too many would see the front ). The forgies are quiet and the perfomance gods took notice and said it was good. Soon to follow run in are some more adjustable suspension bits (camber mostly) and pineapples, Hicas removal bracket when the thread tap arrives, Power FC and some whup-ass tyres. I want to thank Gary, aka Sydneykid, for advice on the right things to do, some of which are outstanding at this stage but a budget is a budget, Daniel from Autobarn Epping for recommendations on the machining work (Duggans Balancing Reservior) and other help, oh, and p*ssing off to QLD when I needed new GTR rod bolts....and I swear the idiots at Northern Nissan Bundoora are the most useless bast*rds god ever shovelled guts into after ordering the wrong bolts that should be in a lawnmower AND telling me I was wrong, then getting 10 bolts and expecting me to PAY extra after offering me a price. At least they sent the cutest parts runner in Melbourne to deliver the other 2 bolts. I also want to thank all the good people of SAU for the inspiration to do something a little special when the sad moment came to retire another set of pistons. So if you see me comin' wave....and lock up the wimmin folk.

Street Weapons are a SAU sponsor so try http://www.street-weapons.net/store/ and Memphis will look after you....and make sure you get some SAU stickers too

Yeah, then you could buy the exchange brass sprung centred clutch from Just Jap and it gives a little for normal driving but grips like s*** to a blanket.

I think the "S" was a bit too italicised so maybe upright in the same font as the GT"R" Just to be pedantic of course

OK I'm in for 2 still at that price

I run the 7 heat range coppers in both cars and the stocker does fine but with the track car I regap before every event to 0.8mm. Leaving the crap cover off lets me do this in 20 mins which is no biggie as I consider the cover unecessary. Sure it idles a little rough on cold mornings but that is part of having giddyupandgo sometimes. Won't care when I get to Brisvegas.

If you change the intercooler the effect is hotter or colder charge air depending on which way you go. You know the limitations of the computer can be exceeded even though it has a knock sensor so you could assist or kill the engine. There is no perfect solution without good tuning using knock sensing amplifiers but the hot wire afm is the current ideal solution AFAIKfor everyday and power. If you just want horsies, go MAP for the lack of restriction I suppose.

Still wanna sell this thing dude?

Atmosphere is ~70% nitrogen and 28% oxygen and the rest hydrogen and everything else. This doesn't change, but the densities can change due to barometric and temperature variations. Hot wire anemometers usually maintain a constant temperature, and when the air is cooler it increases voltage to maintain the same temperature, allowing the ECU to modify the fuel and timing to compensate giving more power. Likewise for hotter air it will reduce fuel and timing advance resulting in less power. But the temperature is not everything....the mass flow of air at any temperature is what is required to elicit the change, so for a given temp at sea level, the same temp at altitude would have a differing effect. Ultimately a Hot wire will in one unit give a huge number of influencing parameters input in the computer that cannot be offered by MAP without temp. Hope this clarifies a little

Is this the knob? http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/u...2865-rn003.html Works out to $48 oz + postage so might be worth that

Warpspeed You got me interested. Looks like some research is in order. I reckon a plenum is ideal for investment casting.

Ally has some troubling properties when melting/casting so I have left the whole idea alone, particularly the after roughing effort required...artificially ageing, solid solutions and binary phase diagrams. Not something I would be getting too far into in the garage.

This M/F*ckers Crazeh!!!!! That's some expensive alloy. Have you fitted up and determined improvement yet or is that the next zany installment?

It would be my choice if the seats were a little more sporty and less upright/armchair in character. The manual box may be suspect but they are seriously potent. Enjoy

James, I understand you have a cat replacement pipe. Why not get another made with some mesh welded in and put steel wool in front of it. Will strangle hell out of it and make it quiet as hell but will be no fun to drive. Do the testers check the system for cat etc?

Hoping to be firing up tomorrow sometime.

Or get Lanosil from Supercheap. Comes in a pressure can and keeps the shiny stuff looking good. Needs a clean now and again tho. I did the engine bay in the soarer and it looks showroom after a few days driving. Sprayed everything. Got a couple more cans now to do the other cars.

I'm hoping to get the engine back today so I can commence rebuild - dammit. Need to run in a bit before next weekend. Sorry to hear Andrew. Hope all is ok.

12 months....expect 1200km and you will be cleaning up oil everywhere man. Been there before. Was controllable at first then just kept getting worse.

Just grab a drill and a tapered grinding stone to start on the deeper areas and all the burrs, gently does it now, then use a flapper wheel attachment (coarse) on the drill then use a fine one with the scotchbrite in between. Then your choice is the buffing attachments for the drill or the bench grinder if lucky enough to own one. If buying a benchy then buy big and powerful NOW not later. Eventually you will have.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...&cat=500&page=1

Whats the weight difference then? Very nice by the way.

First of all try CAMS http://cams.com.au/ and you can find all sorts of clubs For Nissan http://www.ndsoc.com.au/site/ And for others, via RWDTurbo, my social car club, make sure you check the pics of us at Sandown http://www.rwdturbo.com/ and the links page for other clubs. Just ask if you want to know what classes of racing are available

Howdy RowdyR32. I was there also and was talking with Snowman a lot of the night. I have been a member about 6 months with NDSOC and we could do worse by following this route for affiliation. They are well run and friendly and we stand to lose nothing by doing it this way, but, if a social event gets out of control we could expect a backlash and discipline. Food for thought but I would expect those interested in joining would do so to hit the track, participate in the social aspects or do concourse show events. No room for showboating...this is a serious club. I'll put my hand up for financial support of SAU Vic but will also remain NDSOC for the racing.

With 2 cracked ring lands (2 pistons but not too bad), poorly sized pistons and rings due to a workshop error I have now discovered and blowing about 400ml of oil into the catch can per 15min on track in the wet I still had enough mumbo to spin up fourth at 180kmh. The first pistons I did due to the turbo I cracked 4 and one had 35mm of rings and lands just gone....drove for another 2500km and still making great power but the dipstick was held in with a spring and the catch can kept filling super fast. Daily drain effort. RB's are an impressive engine and take some punishment. Get the leakdown and compression test ASAP

Can get them from Just Jap for $25