GTRgeoff

'nodrog'? you going backwards on us mate. Thought you went to import heaven, not SA. Nice avatar BTW. I reckon I just want the ability to pull those numbers by tweaking the hand controller if I need to, same with lifting the redline. Speed runs at avalon maybe in the Dutton. What I have now is too much on some surfaces. Need the girly to drive it sometimes.....keeps her in the ownership loop and off my case with the cost. (drop power with the PFC too ) I do have blue anodized hex covers on the 3 piece wheels (Impul) so I'se gotta be cool then.....

Open road....Hmmmmmm. Maybe save the fine money for racing. I have got a nice shiny plenum tho (DIY) and nice aluminium rose jointed suspension bits. Does that score cred? This rebuild I hope to net at least 250rwkw on 98 and 300+ on track tune with toulene. Should at least be good for that with forgies, big cooler, GTR rods and pump, PFC, full balance and the rigoli modded stocker (otherwise I'm in the market for a new 'dryer)

I have to rely on others for auto eye candy. Need the money for racing car maintenance and mods. I like the look of a nice car but can never justify the expense.

I take it you never cruised lygonmate. I avoid it like the plague but also the big first tues of the month on plenty rd at bundoora has been shot down by the blues. Laps on caville were always on tho

Bugger me, it's bloody fast and the furious. Always thought GC would become cali. Someone tell me brisvegas is not this bad.

Just to clarify for you all in case anyone is worried - inside a fuel tank where the fuel/air mix is extremely rich ther is no chance of a short causing a fire. Petrol needs oxygen to burn, and it needs it in the correct ratio. You could throw a burning match in a puddle of petrol, or better yet, a bucket half full and no boom. They repair fuel storage tanks by welding them internally when full of fuel. Diver wears a special suit and uses special welding rig.

GTR34???????Dammit Snowman......spoiling our all 33 25t program good to have you along mate.

One real piece of advice. Pull the fuse for the ABS before you hit the track. Not to make me look better but it will help stopping once you run off onto sand/grass etc. Seriously, CAMS headlined a porsche last year that crumped in at wakefield and the wheels didn't stop turning until he hit the tyres and shortened the car by 3 feet. Old John owns the tank museum down south and is in his eighties. Has a GTiR (was outside-red) with R tyres and no fear. Seriously quick and only started racing in the last ten years. He and his wife are lovely people and entertained me on my first meeting at the club. Old and young, all types of Nissan/Datsun/Prince skyline it is a great club. I recommend joining. In a few weeks the club has a Targa Tassie tour for 4 days and will be awesome, even car stickers. Wish I was going.

Butting in.... You can get a brass puck style single plate that will handle the power easy, but with a sprung centre so it won't be entirely undrivable (rev-pop-rev-pop to get going or just rev dump spin fine) and having driven one from Just Jap sydney I was quite surprised. Juddered a lot particularly in reverse up hills riding it but better all the same than a solid button. Get the FMIC as early as possible to prevent over exuberance, pinging (detonation) and cracked pistons. The thermal capacity of the stock cooler is very poor hence I used water spray.

I'm only after a mild 250rwkw for track and the shopping list is as follows: Forged arias 40 thou os pistons (1300) GTR conrods (extra rpm) (300) O ringed block and engine work (700) Heat treated ACL race beaings GTR fuel pump that has delivered 314rwkw (190) Malpassi rising rate fuel reg (130) balanced bottom end, lightened and balanced flywheel 6 puck brass clutch (550) 3" turbo back exhaust (need dump 250) RSR suspension Tight LSD (dont have specs, came as is) Power FC (soon) (1000) 800HP Hybrid FMIC 3" (700) Rigoli modded turbo (600) Rose jointed adjustable caster rods (150) racebrakes.com RB74 pads and Motul 5.1 brake fluid. (150) Water injection (100) FMIC water spray (50) Further suspension - pineapples, adjustable sway bars and adjustable camber kits F/R (300) Total ~$6500 and I do all of the labour myself so triple that. So as you see it is not just a matter of the engine, but the stopping and turning as well to handle the extra power. I think what tends to overwhelm newbies to big power is the rate at which you get to ludicrous speeds, then forget to brake early enough or try to turn going too fast. To make what is hopefully a quick track car, or even one that will safely make good power long term and handling, the bill gets out of control. Buy one with the engine work done and then do the handling and brakes.

JimX I like the way you're thinking.

Bad news. The engine bits won't be complete until next week (early) so there will be no time to build, install, tune suspension, run in and race. BUGGER Great to meet Snowman at the NDSOC meeting last night tho. Can't wait to see his GTR34.

Just call or email Darron at Just Jap in Sydeney. They are one of our sponsors and stuff arrives overnight. I got my last "S" badge from there for the GTS25t

Just a note on the HICAS lock bar. I'm building one now and the threads are a 16mm x 1.0 thread pitch. Entirely uncommon in Oz but you can get a bottoming tap for a bargain $65......ouch. Oh well it is cheaper than the off the shelf items.

I'm certain there is a definitive "how to" on here by the fabled "SK" with specifics on the power potential of each mod...... try this then.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=33412 It will give you an idea of starting point. 300rwkw is a lot to try to drive with. Are you sure your not going to be another Skyline killer as others have been recently?