GTRgeoff

Rev nice pic BTW, I bet Ipswitch to Toowoomba doesn't take long at that speed although the hill would be interesting... Unfortunately it's appearing very much to be a lash adjuster but I will be putting together my audio enhancer to get a clearer idea of the location before anything gets stripped. Lucky i got a spare or two.... Thanks for the thought. Very much appreciated.

Roy everyone has an opinion, it's what makes coming on here so enjoyable. Personally I have no allegiance to any Aus made car, which makes watching the racing enjoyable also. I have previously done the Bathurst weekend with OzEmail, but naturally my impact in so short a time was probably negligible. i did get a 1 min interview during the race with Grant Denier as the media thought I was on there as a weatherman. i was simply modelling pit strategies against the approaching weather and very nearly had Brad going out on wets on a dry track. Unfortunately the rain that was on the way in turned and we got none but I would have loved to see the other teams watching brad go out on wets on the dry track moments before a major downpour. Thats racing. And no I still have no particular affilliation with Jones or Ford. BTW the fans, generally, are about as ignorant as you can get which is probably why the whole ford vs holden farce is so successful. Anyway, what do you have in mind?

Doesn't sound as though many posting here have actually rubbed panels on the track but once locked together it was only a flip of the coin as to who was going off. Been there and done that in Sports Sedans. Both are guilty of being idiots and it is a blight on the good racing that was done. As far as Skaife being smart and spending millions on a team, well, I want to see the cheque that was written. I suspect he is owner only for a nominal fee under an "arrangement". Anyone who claims a team owner and fellow racer doesn't "...understand the Engineering" without a recognised degree or trade is a full on wanker. I refer of course to the V8 Superstars argument for standardisation between Skaife and Brad Jones 18 months ago. I have both and practice in both fields with integrity. Why can't he race like a pro? Lets have a real race series with real cars running factory parts and realistic mods......Oh thats right.....GTP.

In fact, as a 2L unit they are one of the lowest specific power output engines on the market in NA form (was 88kW). Can someone remind us what an EVO and STi run as far as boost pressures go?????

Ring lands...did four pistons due to a turbo compressor seal failure and didn't get any of this. Still only 30000 since that rebuild. The only way to find out will be out with the cams........

Adults only horror story. Please keep the kiddies away. Recently I've been doing a lot of on road acceleration runs to tune my IC water spray and water injection. All has been going well except I forgot to drain my catch can back into the sump regularly and with a whole lot happening didn't keep my eye on oil levels. The can is too small to properly settle out the oil with the sump drain open so I have a tap and I lose some oil to atmosphere through the filter. Anyways yesterday is a bit warm and I have the window down when a van goes past and I hear this godawful rattling.....and I realise it's coming from my car, reflecting off the van.......OH MY GOD......oil pressure is a bit low....don't panic...pull into a servo and switch off. The oil is off the dipstick so in goes some more, about 1 1/2 litres and I fire up. Rattling a bit and then it stops so I'm driving home and then I hear it......just when I'm trailing the throttle a little there's some rattle.....maybe the gearbox, it's pretty noisy with this new oil in it, isn't it, I'm just looking for trouble, right? Try it at the next lights, just bring the revs up a little and ease off and...rattling! Dammit. Once home and into the garage the noise comes at me like a Leopard tank is driving around next to me. I pull open the hood and listen a little and I'm not convinced it's a big end, too tappety so off with the oil filler cap and it seems to be coming from about number six exhaust area and at the same frequency as the cam spinning. I've since dropped in some stuff supposed to free up the lifters but it still persists and is down on power....not the full power stuff but just lethargic. I can really do without this sort of activity but looks like a partial head pulldown to have a look and see where the drama is. Just hope I'm not convincing myself that it's not too bad.... DAMN MY INATTENTION TO DETAIL To be continued..........

My inners pulled out overtaking a mustang at 195....uuuugly but no damage to either car.

When I was doing some stuff to my Lynx I spoke to MRT (Brett) and had trouble communicating. I'm a mechanic with a Mech Eng degree and studying masters in management and he sounded like he was on another planet...nothing made sense so I didn't deal with him. This is a major drama tho under the trade practices act for misleading his customer not to mention the straight out theft and tax fraud if the customer is telling the truth. The ATO has a dob in line and I would call if I had first hand info that I could stand behind, which is why I won't. Serves them right tho for trying to modify a piece of crap like a wrx....shopping trolley powered to the limit of engineering design envelope. And steady with the flames... after modding the laser Lynx with a 30mm sway bar and suspension changes and oxygen injection and water and extra injector I got what I deserved too. The knowledge NOT to play around with already substandard cars so now I have 2 'lines.

Mines a bit lower and is running IMPUL 3 piece on extended width hubs. Take a look at the red 33 on the www.rwdturbo.com sandown track day pics. It's not as low as you might want but I do drive on the street and need some range of motion for decent handling on the track (non adjustable tein coilovers). Then again the offset may be different. I didn't need rolling and the fronts (235) are also cool.

You know it's real tho when ur girly :boobs: gets a skyline too cuz it can whup the poofy boys in their V8's. :burnout:

Maybe I'll stand for parliament one day..."I drive myself to work" could be a platform The pricks just rely on scaring the mums and dads with taking a few bucks of child support off them and who cares about road safety and revenue. If someone actually made a platform of proper safety management and driver education it would be a shoe in but since they make it about other s**t then the elections are more and more about who is going to screw the health/school/welfare system less. I'd like to see a proper referendum on attitudes toward road safety policy and see where that goes....... business should make more noise as every dollar that speed cameras takes off people is a dollar less that they have to spend on luxuries that the pollies certainly do not do without. Here's an angle. Older/cheaper cars are likely to have a less accurate speedo (I'm a mechanical Engineer and mechanic OK) and are more likely to be pinged in the 3kmh tolerance. Who owns the cheaper cars??? The less well to do!! Which sector of the community is paying the most in speeding revenue??? I bet the poor are because they cannot afford the legals or the expert engineering advice (I DO NOT pay speeding fines, It's a matter of knowledge and understanding). And the govt are just continuously bleeding the little guys dry and wondering why personal debt is spiralling out of control. OK rant over, but this is a real hatred of mine.

Gordo thanks for the Amp. Sorry to not get to know you better but I'll be heading home to BrisVegas end of next year hopefully. Might see you sometime.

usually for emissions you have to have the crankcase breather plumbed back into the intake, and this will carry the gasses that have forced past the rings into your intake charge including the atomised oil floating around. OIL CAN CAUSE DETONATION and if you are running more boost you may experience some heartbreak if your engine is a bit tired. Mine blew a compressor seal which induced detonation at high load on a hot day and cracked 4 pistons. It was obvious immediately due to the oil smoke but after the seal recovered somewhat and I traced the fault in the turbo it took another 2000km to really show itself as failed pistons. Even though it was caused by the turbo I now run a catch can to protect against oil induction.

GroundRun, obviously off to a bad start here and I don't have specific advice on 34's as 33's are my toy, but should be close enough. I found that something that feels like boost cut came on at higher boost/combustion pressures with a normal spark plug gap. I now run 0.8mm gap on standard copper plugs and have no problems. My turbo is a bit different and I now max at 10psi for lots more top end power , but more lag, than i did with a stock turbo at 14psi(about the limit for the inconel/cermamic turbine on a stockie). I could change this with an aftermarket computer, and may do so eventually. The problem is the limited spark available which is basically 'blown out' at higher boost/combustion pressures which kills the combustion process with a miss. Discussion has shown that exotic plugs also last shorter periods at higher boost requiring more frequent changes and negating their higher cost/lower change frequency. Coppers cost about $20 for a set at the 7 heat range. The AFM flows fine for most uses except really high power and that becomes unusable and undrivable on the street so while you have the stock turbo stay at least under 15psi and just take your plug gaps down to 0.8 or even less if the truble still occurs. Take it easy on the other guys, they have lots of advice but sometimes forget that not everyone knows the fundamentals of skylines immediately they buy one, and plenty of ppl will bull***t you on them due to ignorance. We all know honey catches more flies than vinegar. :burnout:

I've found that a car with less power to weight that cannot light up is probably better than an overpowered car for launch and slow street drags. But put the same cars on a circuit and see what happens......100-200kph the 33 I've got is devastating to people from the 4cyl brigade, and even stock 33's will lope away through tight corners and roundabouts, but give me open straights and corners, like on a racetrack which it is set up for, and it is history. Anyway street dragging is juvenile and dangerous to life and pocket. Buy a fast car, join a club and go to the racetrack and start testing your commitment to speed. On the road you can pull out of it at a reasonable speed and say 'yeah, I won' but there are no concessions like that at speed events, only laptimes.

I got a bit enthusiastic cleaning the engine bay and a day later the barge started dropping cylinders under load. Fine off boost and stumbling at idle so I whipped out the coil packs and water had filled in 3 of the plug wells and was seeping past the rubber weather seals. Even so the damage was done and a serious coating of baked on crap is right up the ceramic insulator on a few of the plugs. I tried to clean most of it off but was still dropping a cylinder so a new set of 7 heat range standard plugs gapped to 0.8mm has solved the problem and it's delivering more power than ever. And I was worryng it would be a coil pack. I leave the plug cover off with the copper plugs so i can clean and gap them every time it starts to get rough under load....about 5000km but the power is better than the platinums. Sounds like [some of] your plugs got water around them and were not firing in some cylinders. After 18 years of racing cars, swinging spanners for a living and getting a mechanical engineering degree I still find that plugs are the number one culprit for lost power and misfires.

The question is answered...the widebody car is a Kakimoto. Too bad for me, must just be some body work has been done to mine.

And they are SIK too, but on the MCCR site I saw mention. Maybe I'll just call the car shop with the machine.....

I was in a situation where I had to put standard wheels of my stock car onto my track beast, and they looked mega narrow under the body so I put the hub extenders (about 20mm thick and bolted to the hubs with a different set of studs for the rims) and the 3 piece track wheels, running 255 45 17's, on the stockie and they hung out almost 25mm while they sit juuuust inside on the track car. I was thinking that it was just some bodywork had been done but then I saw a comparo on the MCCR website that mentioned widebody GTS25t's, and only about 100 were made. Does anyone have more info on this? Is it fact or fallacy?

84 you should go to your local exhaust place with an idea of what you need and buy mandrel bends and some straight pipe. Get a hacksaw and some blades and some carb cleaner to clean the pipes down after cutting as wellas some cleaning rags to get all of the metal bits out. If it has to be alloy there are places that do that as well but this stuff is so easy to do and so cheap it doesn't matter if you screw up something. Give it a try. Bit of polishing or some black paint...sweeeet.

I saw four brand new electric blue high profile Falcon V8 patrol cars coming off the Ring Road in Melbourne in a convoy. They all looked a little older and real serious except the last guy who was slowing back to get some space from the others and then herbing it up with this huge grin on his face. Obviously an enthusiast in the best kind of car....someone elses!! More of this guy on the force........

JiMiH, no worries. Wasn't trying to slag down anyone in particular and not you. Japs get crazy too and there was some truly weird stuff in cars I was importing. A bigger MC wont help, it will make it harder. You would need a narrower diameter MC wich would require a longer throw for the same amount of clutch actuation. Now a bigger Slave cylinder would help, but wouldn't move as far. i think there would be plenty of pedal anyway but maybe try a brake shop for a Slave cylinder to do the job. Maybe even your MC or SC is corroded and needs a reco to loosen it up. Most likely MC in that case. Maybe I should have given advice asked for in the first place instead of carrying on like a wanker too.......

Autospeed are cheaper ($1K) and delivery is free. The Std rotors are 30mm front new and 28 minimum. I got slotted fronts and plain rears for track work for $650 but not DBA. Don't need a brand name anyway. I'll know how they go next weekend at sandown

Go to Spotlight or a hobby shop or Jaycar for spray adhesive.....works a treat and has repositioned many a roof lining

nismo_au I went to my local tyre and brake and he got me some discs, slotted front and regular rear (coulda got slots but they don't work too hard) for $650 the lot. Want some info? I am going to my first track day on them next sunday at sandown so I can update you then on performance.