GTRgeoff

When i was rallying 1600's we used to have a couple of holes in the tailpipe so we could sick steel wool in and put a bit of wire behind it to stop it coming out at the wrong moment during scrutineering then we would drive round the corner, take out the wire and blip the throttle to spit the wool. Don't know the answer for a 3" or 3 1/2" tho

Yeah I covered all that at TAFE while a mechanic and at UNI getting Mech Eng Degree, but to be breaking shit??? Then again I did do a bit of truck driving in Army Mack recovery vehicles with a 5 puck brass button clutch std and a 5 spd crash box and until recently was cycling 60km a day so I don't lack leg strength. Still this one feels similar to my laser Lynx for pressure and is obviously not transmitting the same torque. I hate to sound like a know it all smart arse but guys seem to be paying a squillion for their gear and not researching the best value for money componentry. The badge name has more cred or the workshop name and they are being seriously ripped. Unless serious machining or pressing I do all my own work in my garage with a trolley jack, 4 vehicle safety stands and a chain block into the ceiling (my house so I reinforced it). I rebuilt this engine I use now, did the clutch last week and i am getting new discs to install Monday that cost $650 for slotted fronts and plain rear. I hate to say this but apparently the rears are the same as some HSV's (now i have to disinfect) out there and fit right up. Lot better than $1K for DBA but hey...no brand name. Rather spend my money on track days.

I looked in the Trading Post and the prices were yucky so I went to Cash Converters for a speccy 'cause they are usually exie and they were all under $165. Some were filthy but I got a LAZER that was spotless, fullface and colour matched my track skyline. AS 1698 approved and only $95.

Don't know what numbers you guys are running at the flywheel, but I have a 6 puck brass comp plate with an uprated pressure plate that feels very light underfoot(no real discernable difference from std) and is relatively easy to use since it is sprung centred, gets a bit juddery when parking but thats why I didn't go button. Given the quick 0-100 (flat 5's) times I get and the 255/40/ZR17 's will light into 3rd at redline from 2nd I calculate approx 300kW brake. The std clutch was slipping in 3rd due to the torque and I'm taking this thing to track days without dramas. Anyway my point is either you are running huge numbers, or have been sucked into buying over the top clutches that are not suitable for your application. Clutch braces are fine, as are brake braces but no race car I've driven in the last 17 years has been that bad. I did have an XF that cracked away the firewall around the brake MC but some bonded and rivetted ally plate soon sorted that. Oh and the clutch in the 'line only set me back $550.

I'm a new member of NDSOC and we just cracked 300 members. Nice club, interesting people. Looking forward to getting to Sandown next weekend too. Costing me though. Just getting the 33 reregistered I need new rotors, all 4, @ $640 for plain rear and slotted fronts, rego, club membership new extinguisher CAMS licence new 6 puck clutch the list goes on. The accountant will throttle me when she adds it up

Your right about the coke bottle, keep the costs down. I race, and the only reason I keep my machines clean is to maintain cred at the track. Pretty cars generally don't get worked or have had too much spent to risk an off, while a filthy machine infers no pride, but each to their own. Watch though if you start blowing heaps of oil out the breathers, means something bad like cracked rings, or pistons (4 of them) I recall there is no crankcase hose though on a 33, but a return line from the turbo oil is there.

JT nah, got the crappy black auto with the RR panel losing paint and sanded back bonnet. My red manual is a beast with 3 piece wheels and a custom rear wing. Just getting back on the road now to start club racing again but got my roadworthy and the discs are undersize so time for a new set. DBA will cost 1K for all 4 from Autospeed but I'm told by a guy in Epping he can get slots for under $500 (not DBA). I'll post when I find out. Also got a green soarer and black laser lynx. give us a wave and feel free to stop and chat. ____________________________________________________ OK this is the price update. Slotted fronts ar $220 each, plain rears are $190 for the pair (cause they don't work too hard, even on track) so @ $640 I'm well ahead but I will have to get the heat sensitive paint out and bed them in properly cause I won't get enough driving in before Sandown next weekend. Always worth doing well anyway. The procedure is on the DBA website.

r33per I use mine to remove the recirculating foul air that comes from the crankcase. Turbos get a lot of blowby the rings at high boost which is an AF mixture, exhaust gas and atomised oil from the stirring and stuff in the crankcase. These things are detonation inducers and lower potential max power and can bring on detonation. I vent mine from the catch can, through a filter, to the atmosphere and not back into the pre turbo/post airflow meter pipe. Recirculation is done for emissions so this is prolly illegal, but so should be pushrod v8's Makes sense to me to get rid of the waste and I'm a Mechanical Engineer and was a Mechanic before that.

Good to see something done about Cretins Against Motor Sport (CAMS) and their empire building, V8 Supercar loving attitude. You would think no-one else races. I've had CAMS licencing on and off since '86 and I begrudge them every penny 'cause they just make it harder and harder. Only do club speed events now.

I'm in the Lakes with 2 x 25t's, a GT LTD Soarer and the 'hot hatch"