GTRgeoff
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Posts posted by GTRgeoff
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Let's just say never leave a dodgy bottle of Wurth thread locker sitting next to the assembly lube
There is no substitute. Only ever use Loctite!!
And bugger assembly lube. Lanox spray is a million times better.
Having now had the grand tour of the work Deran has done in restoring this machine, all I can say is all the old busted arse 32 GTR's out there are not even in the same league, even if perfectly new from factory. The colour is magnificent and the attention to detail is beyond any but the finest auto manufacturers.
Consider the spray job inside and out, the underbody sealer, the colour matching on items as simple as the steering rack....... the list goes on.
If he ever drives it it will be a travesty.
Also the TB's need to be sealed or you can't get a low idle. 6 TB's let so much air through compared to one so cleaning them is a no-no.
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The 30 block will fit in the boot, but is heavier so is a bit more muscle to get in there with no damage....
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It will be fine but it is a bit of a waste of money going the big pump in tank simply because it runs without load, but if you have it, use it.
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Well I'm a lot disgusted with some people I thought were a lot smarter and a lot more considerate.
This is simple revenue raising and there is plenty of reasonable doubt as to the correct time and circumstances. There is no specific law that you need to wear a watch or have a clock in the car. Doubt? You bet!!
Mulkers, feel free to contact me for further detail, but I can recommend you go to http://www.aussiespeedingfines.com/pages/1259.htm and purchase their book, follow the process and if necessary represent yourself. I doubt it will even get there.
Before I left the cretinous hole of Victoria I got a camera fine for 4km over in a 60 zone (my first in 15 years), with 5 other cars in the image, I was more than 61% across the photo (actually 75%) and I don't need to be a Radar and Laser expert (which I am) plus have detailed training in the Law to know that this was not right.
The infringement should not have been issued, I asked for review and it was rejected (2 counts of misconduct just there) so I have now sent the reviewing officer a legally binding contract to provide affidavit to confirm the equipment was calibrated to the relevant AS or reject the contract in 28 days. He failed to do this so a confirmation document is sent to confirm we now have a contract which he cannot escape as the representative of VicPol, so no further action can be taken and no Judge would overturn it, ever. It was all sent registered and receipted and notarised. Aussie Speeding fines has plenty of info and it is worth just buying the book
I guess people can't see the difference between Law and Justice. This wasn't high range speeding given the circumstances and his previous error was one most of you would make too so he gets nailed on his license as a P plater.
Mulkers, go the defence, you are entitled to it. In fact the rest should buy the book and learn a bit of eye opening detail as well on the actual law, even you Sarah
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Yes I'm a bit amazed by the lack of understanding above as well. Especially if some of you guys are fiddling with tunes.
An injector is an electro-mechanical device with a mass that has to be moved by EM force to open and close. The larger the mass/smaller the force, the longer it takes to respond, which is defined as lag compared to the standard item in the PFC.
If you don't adjust the lag then it will take longer for the injector to open, so the injector is still opening when peak open time is being measured so less peak fuel is delivered, plus the valve could be closing before the fuel is delivered due to slower closing time and causing significant tuning difficulties by pooling the fuel and the subsequent effects could be lean knock, rich knock or even worse hydrostatic lock in the engine with catastrophic effects.
So it is critical to correct for both injector size and for lag.
The computer doesn't have any way of correcting lag automatically, so you have to do it. It then automatically starts the open/close sequence to deliver the correct peak open times in relation to the rpm and valve times BUT you will have an environment that needs to be fine tuned with injector corrections against logged Lambda data.
I'm currently using the Innovate Motorsports LM1 and LC1 modules with Bosch wideband O2 sensors for tuning the racecar and GTR, plugged direct into the FC Datalogit black box (for tuning all models of PFC) and I've found it to be both educational and a hell of a lot better money spent than handing over to some of the tuners who charge a squillion.
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i wish i had a job like yours lol
What job? I'm retired (39 soon) except for a bit of consulting work that I charge a lot for.....
Seriously I started with an XM Falcon ute at 17 when I worked as a Jackaroo and then Corollas and a host of other things. I tried all sorts of things to make various cars something that they weren't. Aside from a few absolutely dedicated race cars, everything was a huge uphill battle to make performance and then chase the problems that created in cars that just were never meant to do it. A GTSt Skyline is highly capable but needs plenty to get to the base starting point of a GTR including decent seats......
My best advice is save time and money now. If you can afford a GTR, then get it and enjoy it, but look after it.
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Sean, my mate is about to take over as the Engineering Manager with Boeing up at Williamtown for the twin jet engine capability.
Now that is a world of hurt for technical integrity and triple checking........the whole aviation thing, and I won't touch it.
He and I studied engineering together as mature agers with trades behind us. We built holden V8 lumps, water skied and drank and perved on young girls and even got some study in.....
My machining work cost me 1400 for the 26/30 which included head skim, block work that was a skim, clean, full balance, full tolerance measure on every bearing in their intended location, crank plugs pulled and tapped and flushed and grubscrewed, welsh plugs pilled, collar fitted, tap high timing belt adjuster location, then (and this is the important bit) the block and head were given a full final clean so I didn't have to spend forever cleaning all the gunk out after the honing.
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Al, the ute was my option, but the XR8 auto sedan (BA onwards) is also capable of the 2400kg tow weights. As I mentioned the manuals and the FPV variants aren't suitable tow machines due to either the low limit (1600kg on all manuals), the power delivery and torque profiles or for the BOSS 290 engine the cam profiles which puts the peak torque and power too far up the rev range to be useful.
The ute is heaps of fun though, just over 1300kg........and no traction control through a solid rear axle and LSD standard. Brings out the bogan in me.....
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I have a 500hp GTR33 daily driver. The costs of running it are no higher than the 2 33 GTS25ts and it is overall a fair bit nicer to drive around.
Don't be precious, it is just a car. Get decent insurance, shop around brokers. Drive it and enjoy it or you will eventually regret it.
I have a BA XR8 ute with leather and the toss up is to take that or the GTR. At the moment the ute is getting the drive time because it is so comfy. The GTS25ts lost their appeal so that one is a racecar only and the other got sold.
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Actually Ash if the trailer is override brake equipped then the towing comes down to the capacity of the tow vehicle. Unbraked then the trailer mass is limited. How else do prime movers tow such large trailer combinations legally? There is the matter of whether the car will survive towing without significant support such as bigger radiator, trans cooling, brake packages etc which is why I chose not to use the V8 Soarer as a tow vehicle, plus I needed a general haulage machine.
In my case I went for an auto BA XR8 ute with leather and hard lid. An incredibly comfortable car, the auto only can tow 2400kg as the manuals are restricted to 1600kg. The turbos suck as tow cars especially the Typhoon. Also the BOSS290 engine is too peaky with the wrong cams for towing.
I'm towing mt 18ft 'glass half cabin and the GTS30tt racecar on trailer. The only change needed is the HD towbar that is $400 to replace the 1600kg factory job.
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Building a motor is simple, the tools needn't be the best except the torque wrenches must be good and accurate.
Otherwise spend some time learning a useful skill that isn't just cheque book performance and telling everyone what a great motor (insert workshop name) built.
You need to research what you want out of the motor, spend time gathering the parts and the tools for each step, understand how and why things are assembled in a particular way, talk to people that build engines and ask about preparations and consumables like what grease and sealant to use (in an RB I use the head gasket and that is all) and most of all find a good machinist that will talk about what and why you need things done and then get them to do it if they have been a great advisor.
Finally, PATIENCE!!!
Take the time, don't rush and while the impoverished idiots brag about how much and engine build cost you can smile quietly and have spent what you saved on extra goodies, or fuel, or at least had it running much sooner than waiting on their highnesses at the workshop to get around to it.
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Victoria.......miserable one day, sh*thouse the next!!!
The only good things down there are SAUVic and a few racetracks.
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This question does not have a simple one or two line answer as there are far too many variables to consider so the correct response is... "it depends".
Primarily I have found the major cause to be the mechanically unsympathetic nut behind the wheel. They choose to not understand their car needs maintenance and it needs the right support mods to make the power they want. They also choose to believe the odometer when it says 6X,XXX kays on a 10-18year old car despite the interior condition which usually tells no lies, so they think it's still fresh and can be flogged a bit. An engine has a finite life and will need a basic rebuild or three sometime through a long life. I just purchased an 03 XR8 ute with just under 100, 000km and it looks pretty good compared to the interiors of a host of imports I have seen with far less than that. Not that I think the Falcon has anywhere near the same build quality, I just realise that imports have the speedos wound back in almost every case.
They blow because they are:
1. not designed to make 14+psi on the stock turbos for too long, which can rupture and cause catastrophic engine damage,
2. even with the right turbos the injectors run out of capacity so detonation results and that cracks pistons and damages bearings, and
3. they are just plain tired and a number of events result in a failure.
Oil surge is extremely uncommon, but the appropriate mods can help overcome the issue. filling the sump the correct amount, running the motor to ensure oil capacity is correct and then topping off again Then overfilling with a litre of oil will work until you start to brake and corner extremely hard on semis or move to slicks.
Otherwise, buy the car, enjoy it and don't overdo it without providing the right attention and it will be great for a long time.
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Popped a turbo/IC hose.
I did it at Phillip Island with everything hot and because of the overfuelling it melted my rear bumper and tail light.
It went POP and had no power and had a very rich exhaust, like 2m flames.
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hey guys does the rb25de neo head water/oil galleries line up to rb30 bottom end??
despite vct though coz im going to keep it...
HELP!!
Mate, not everything has to be a massive drama so take it easy, think and do some more reading. Sure there is a lot to get through but it's worth it. spoolup is running a neo head so they must line up reasonably well.
How about get a head gasket and overlay it to see if it will line up?? Take photos and post them up to add to the knowledge base while you are at it.
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I've never ran with 2 down low but even with 1 low 1 high the belt is really tight to get on. Near impossible. If I were to do it again I would position the tensioner 1mm towards the centre more.
To get mine on I have to position the cam belt with the lower tensioner loose and then slide the top tensioner on. There was no way I was able to slide the belt on with the tensioner already located in place.
BUT once all on the belt still had a little too much slack which required slight pinching up.
I think you mean 1mm further away from the centre to add a tiny amount of slack. Using the guide measurements mine is in the perfect location without having to tension the belt using one tensioner high and an idler low. When I install the belt I use a high tensile bolt instead of a stud and just locate the tensioner and start threading the bolt. Makes for less offset tension in the installation but the bolt does need to be well prepped with a quality thread sealer tape.
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Bugger, almost makes me wish I didn't take the boat out on the river for the fireworks.
Noel, keep me posted for the next outing mate.
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Then is the CAS actually in the right location when installed? If the key is not in there then you can get it out of alignment.
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You can check the CAS by removing it but leave it plugged, then rotate it, it should make the fuel pump start up as you rotate it.
Also make sure that the injector loom is actually plugged in and the CAS. I note also the air temp sensor is not plugged, check the plugs for the AFMs and anything else you may have unplugged.
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Dave, watching the amount of fumes/smoke exiting the catch can vent at high rpm on the dyno I'd suggest there is some resistance to the head return flow but not massive. Still not entirely convinced a return is necessary but if you are considering fitting one then at build is the only time that is sensible.
hans, it doesn't really matter but most go left as that is the natural lean of the engine and run it into the sump.
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Simple, find a workshop that will work to your satisfaction. I have them in the racecar which is a 26/30 combo. Not a hint of noise.
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You are welcome scott.
Just one thing before the mods hang you, as attractive as she is please make your avatar a little more co-habitation friendly.
Cheers
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I agree Richard, they are the best value for money luxury sports car available and far better quality than any locally made car and they still look great. I've had the UZZ31 since 98 and only need to replace it as we really need the ute for our current lifestyle. Plus here in Ipswich a V8 ute is mandatory and they have no traction control for the circle work
The V35 sedan is unfortunately the ugly duckling but hide it with lots of black and shiny wheels and it's not too bad.I'd guess it has a torsen perhaps since it will spin them which is a pretty decent diff. Most were an option but some were transplanted from Supras. I've spent a fair bit of time on PlanetSoarer and the old ALSC too.
Brendan it was a toss up for a Cosmo for me as well, but the compliance at the time was non existent and the back seats just a little small.
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I love it mate. Have been agonising selling the UZZ31 to get a UZZ32 but I think a BA XR8 ute will serve me better. Plus the wife wants something newer so has decided on a 350GT-8 sedan. Ugly but 8 speed with paddles.......
BTW in case I change my mind, has it got an LSD and if so what type? I couldn't do the boat ramps without one.
The V35 sedan is unfortunately the ugly duckling but hide it with lots of black and shiny wheels and it's not too bad.
R33 Rb30 Conversion
in RB30 conversions
Posted
Wrong.
The best choice is the one that suits your car (unless you have a 19th century technology R31 or earlier). Then you work around that. I have the 26/30 in the GTS25t with 26 plenum and throttles and TT's and run it all with the 25t PFC, and the only sensor changes were the z32 and the water temp sensor since the 26 sensor maxes the temp signal. Even as a TT I have it set up for single AFM. I also have a single O2 sensor at the split pipe join.
If you have to use twin AFM's then you can wire it to supply an average input from the sensors.
PS, Fatz you are a massive shoebox torturing wanker
Have you no pity on that ancient barge???????