GTRgeoff

Busted. That was me. Sorry I didn't have time to catch up with the regular crew. I had a little time to throw an RX8 around the skidpan and head back yesterday. Nice to catch up though mate.

Mate if you can wait until next week and want to drag yourself out to Ipswich we can knock it over in about 1 hour. You won't really need an alignment unless the height is different by a decent amount.

Not a wing on the murcielago but another diffuser. it gives a sharp termination to the rear of the car to reduce high speed harmonic motion caused by von Karman vortices. To be a wing it has to have a proper aerofoil shape. Ants diffuser pulled the rear of the car down visibly at about 4th gear change at Calder. Under car effects are far more usable than wings on top. A 20mm increase in the length of a front splitter can increase front downforce by 60%.

Interesting toy but mostly useless from an engineers perspective that has a specialisation in aerodynamics. As Duncan says 4 kg is a worthless increase, especially given the height and the distance behind the rear wheels. Keep increasing the height above the axle line and you will impact the front contact loads. For Matt: at 45 deg you are well into stall for a wing so you will get only drag. 16-20deg is optimal depending on foil design. Your typical trendy GT wing is mostly useless. When you see them on real race cars then maybe they will be worth buying. An interesting concept is that of putting a wing on a slide mobile. Most of them probably don't analyze the effective change of chord length as a result of the change in the angle of incidence of the air on the wing when sliding, effectively lengthening the chord and logarithmically reducing the downforce. So essentially pointless. If you want to measure aero performance then invest in a decent Motec setup with suspension displacement loggers and use a wind tunnel or if budget is a problem a very smooth road and plenty of data smoothing. Then to compare the drag effect top speed runs are your best bet for the road runs. I've used a couple of tunnels in Melbourne and RMIT is about the best.

The car is in Oxley, but I have 5 cars so can't take a trade unless it's a BA series II Boss 260 XR8 ute. So we going to see you at any club dinners mate? I think Tuesday night is Springfield or something but check the SAUQld website.

Mileage now about 120,000km.

Still for sale but I may be forced to trade it so please feel free to make an offer.

Help my cause. I want an XR8 ute so make me an offer.

Received and very happy. Thanks Rick.

That just sucks Mark. As an alternative if you still have some stockers then Slide is still only $1500 for highflows. Mine made 320rwkw on 14psi on the GTR so on the 30 should go harder again at lower rpm.

Rick, I'll take it mate. Send details.

You're handling yourself until you have tested an armoured vehicle in a wind tunnel.........I spent a quarter mill of you guys cash doing so

That's a pity, but it comes down to so many factors to determine the actual failure cause. I always prefer the O ring because it is hard locked into the block so you literally need something to tear in the gasket for failure. Too late now with the engine in to do the O ring, but try some of the other metal gaskets available from the online traders like Slide etc.

Updated first post. Price now $10K

Yep, I need all the bits available. See you tomorrow.

Let's see, for my 26/30 in the 25t 26 Head complete with inlet and injectors - 1500 cam gears, 200 or whatever brad at spoolup is charging Block - 60 pistons and rods - 1090 machining - 1400 including bearings turbos - steelies from the GTR to make way for sliding highflows so free but say 1500 braided lines - 400 but donated from the RB25DETT gaskets - say 200 as I use silicone blue mostly build, install and fire up - free in 5 days for a poor broken cripple (me) so $6350 but then there is tuning so allowing $10K with tuning (no more than $1K and less at a good MOTEC tuner like SelectMaz) and a workshop to do the work is fair enough, but less if you are using a donor head from a 25 and not needing to muck with twin turbos. Still been too crook to get the cam gears in and run it away for final tune so no number yet, just running it as a na with 160rwkw.

The Switch is where it's all happening folks........

Peter I'll take the afms and airbox with fittings mate. When is good for you? I'll be at Cactus Jacks at Loganholme Hyperdome 7pm tomorrow night with the crew if that works.

Sounds good. Need something spicy. Just me though.

Yeah, retired millionaire at 38 is hard to take. I won't touch the Audi though as the suspension components and wheels are designed as low load failure points IOT save weight. Essentially not intelligent engineering IMPO. Consider the FMECA outcomes and the high speed risks and it is a recipe for disaster. Stick to a solidly engineered GTR which will outpower it and outhandle it without the price tag. The GTR will make the 250rwkw with a zorst, 1 bar of boost and RR fuel reg so no need to waste money on a computer etc.

I'm trying champ but I bet my ass is still too big. Great seat buyers and a genuine, intelligent professional engineer so if this guy says it's good to go then it is.

Anyway you have to really decide what you want to do, which is why I have the GTR33 as a daily driver, the GTS25t with 26/30 for track, the auto GTS25t for zapping around the city, the Soarer for cruising long distances and towing the boat and the Lynx for a workhorse to cart and carry. That way there are no compromises. Anyone want to buy a car?

Looks aside, no actually, the only people who think a 32 looks better than a 33 are only compensating for the fact they can't afford the newer model. I only have 3 R33 coupes and 5 cars all up so it isn't a matter of what I can afford. My outboard on my 6m boat produces more than most RB20's.

Same car??? Yeah... right!!!! chassis stiffness width of wheelbase (about 11cm wider) ability to produce 260rwkw on the stock computer better seats/driving position brakes 10 min to drop the front shaft for RWD fun but it will slide fine with the right driver in AWD put the shaft back in for AWD Feeling stoopid yet or do I have to continue?

Send a message to Spoolup, who has posted in here. I used his Spool rods and CP pistons for what should be a 9.0:1 ratio. He also has a website attached in his sig.