GTRgeoff

There has been a prepped sump on Ebay cheap as. Don't ask me to post the link. Speaking of Sumps Ash, what happened to mine? I don't actually need it since deciding on the 26/30 in the 25t. If it has been moved on has the recipient paid money?

Yes! Shop at Safeway today so the farmers get the drought relief. BTW it's national, not just Vic. Then forevermore go to the small stores and avoid Coles and Slackway who are making rediculous profits and burying primary producers with marginal payments for produce and so driving them to the wall even without drought conditions.

Why R34 mate? I didn't realise there was a difference and you'd be crazy to install without getting a clean first anyway so any well balanced set would do.

Heat and some time to play around will get you the result you need Mick, plus opening the top of the airbox. Not sure I'll have time to finish since I'm leaving end of Feb and have 5 cars to move to Brisbane and an engine to rebuild.

Just between Hurstbridge and Yarra Glen there is a small sign on the left. The real ballsy racers do hillclimbs for sheepstations.......

In Vic, EPA consider an oiled filter a defect. Apexi FTEW!!

I think the primary problem is the size of the inlet on the stock GTSt airbox, not the actual filter area else GTR's would have trouble with more power. The ribbed pipe is secondary but can be a major issue when sucking closed at higher power and on hot days so clearly that has to go. The solution? For me it is a black painted FMIC, opened airbox with Apexi filter (oiled are illegal, see attached docupic from Pauls website so K&N are out) and a replacement hard pipe also black. Leave the heat for the ricers with pods and shiny "look at me, I'm an attention whore" FMIC.

As I said before, paint is an insulator, but radiator paint is designed for the job so if you must paint use that. Anodizing is no problem. Powder coating - you may as well just go back to stock IC or blow up your engine now.

So a light press fit then. Sounds better and better.

How much heat do they need? No heat, then they aren't a real interference fit and need super bearing mount or such.

Brilliant stuff. Used to be they needed a light machine and could be slid on with loctite. So now I assume they just need loctite? They must be down to what? 3-4thou thick?

unlesss technology has changed the crank will have to come out so the area can be machined undersize and the sleeve then loctited on. You can't just slip an oversize sleeve on as the seal then will be too small. Plenty of cars wear the groove. It just depends on how much grit is at the location and how long it runs to wear down.

The prosecution rests. Getting an offer on the house today (hopefully - at last) so should be moving home to Brissy soon.......

I have been told to reduce the stable to make way for a V35 so the Auto GTS25t has to go. This is unfortunate as it has been exceptionally reliable and easy to drive around town. Exterior: It is black with skirts and rear pods and a S1.5 grill. I have painted the brake calipers in Metalcast red crystal. Currently missing the side badges thanks to local kids but I was considering fitting some painted in a black chrome finish. It comes with stock polished wheels or for $700 extra you can have the R34 wheels as photographed. Side windows are tinted but I'd recommend getting them redone. Engine is stock except for boost lifted slightly. I am developing a cold air intake that takes advantage of opening the top of the airbox. It has so far allowed much smoother power delivery but boost/power is limited by the stock computer which no doubt adds to the reliability. I have also fitted a nice quiet but free flowing exhaust system that has a nice sound without being annoying as autos can drone too much. After sourcing new suspension for my track car I fitted the shocks off it to this car. It is RSR springs lowered a small amount and what I can only suspect are stock shocks so a nice combination that saw me circulate Sandown in 1:31 and Phillip Island in 2:00 with Whiteline swaybars on standard rubber. I have recently replaced both steering rod ends and the Caster rods as they were leaking. Overall the car is very tidy with recent attention to the paint after I was tagged lightly in the right rear corner and had the bonnet keyed so these areas were repainted and blended and the whole car buffed. The interior still needs a detail to clean throroughly. I have owned the car since I personally imported it in 1999 under the SEVS system. Mileage was 60K km when it arrived and it now has 117K km on the clock. Cam timing belt was replaced at 100K km. Servicing is done every 5000km. Brake pads have plenty left on them as well as they were recently replaced. I just drove this car to Brisbane from Melbourne over 2 days with no problems, drove very well and averaged 500km to a tank sitting on 110-120kmh The car will come with a roadworthy. I'm after $10,000 with the stock polished wheels. All serious offers will be considered. Call Geoff on 0408124767, email, post here or PM for enquiries.

Have you made a note in my thread below? Have you grabbed some photos of the gudgeon and big end? It's not particularly common.

7500 will be fine Jono unless there is already a fatigue flaw present, and you would no doubt have found out by now. In fact plenty run to 8K without issues but again, that is the limit of the head before the hydraulic lifters start to give problems and float, not a bottom end problem. So what experience hve you had with rods/bolts letting go in RB25's Ash? It isn't a common failure by any means.

But basically no further than 8K as that is about the limit of the top end. If that thing is making decent power at 3K then you should be shifting a bit shorter to use it instead of revving the ring out of it in the interests of longevity.

I'll take the cam gear. Will you be coming to the cub meeting tonight in Sth Melbourne? We could exchange then.

That means the Sensors are likely not working so check/clean connections on the HICAS unit. It is not hard to see if locked. Either a long tube will replace the large HICAS unit at the back of the doff or there will be a couple of large washer looking things at the ends of the unit (Tomei lock) that can be felt under the boot.

As requested on the pics. GTR has only 2 outlets for the BMC and the offset bias chamber. GTS25t

Could always pull this right off topic and discuss how they both have Ford diffs etc..... No I'd like to see a return to using basically showroom (not "homologated") components for engine, gearbox and running gear with brakes, ecu and suspension relatively free but must use original mounting points.

A few points, based on what I know of the system and experiences on the track. HICAS only works over 80kmh and turns in the smae direction as the front wheels. It only gives 1 degree of turn. The light only comes on if there is a problem, not when it is working. Through a constant radius turn at around 80kmh it is quite easy to feel it start to operate. Since it turns in the same direction as the fronts it increases understeer by driving the rear wheels toward the inside of the corner. The natural reaction to that on the track is to back off to tf weight to the front or to give it some throttle to induce slight oversteer. This second option is where things get hairy for some. As you give it some throttle the rear starts to move out, and as you transition into oversteer the rear wheels turn in the other direction and pull the rear of the car in the opposite direction. A number of novices have then made the mistake of backing off which then commences a state of loss of control known as the tank slapper. This has ended more than once with a meeting with a wall or other hard object. The worst case scenario is when the corner is taken close to 80kmh and the system is cutting in and out. It seems fine for full drifting though as the intent is to get the rear out and use power to keep it out, but for track the ideal is not to slide so the thin edge is very thin indeed with this crap system. As you turn in so does HICAS, and then you have to adjust more so yes a number of steering direction changes needed until it reaches its limit then you may need to readjust for the loss of rate of change to the rear end. For everyday driving it is fine so leave it unless there is a problem or you are racing/pushing the limits.

carl that's just the result of rule changes and a strong economy. It was initially relatively cheap. I personally would love to see more makes, so that is why i watch speedweek and plan on getting to more rounds of different race series. Without investment and patronage the others stay small while V8s are still seen by the dumbarse general population as the only game in town.

Go, Go, Go, Go! I won't enter so might come up to help out. What with building a 26/30 for Red and needing a clutch for Purple it will be just one deadline too many

.....and my gay brother. Lend him a car for year with a 5l of oil and first time I drive it after getting it back it's rattling its head off. Only took about 3l of oil to get it back to normal oil level