GTRgeoff

Why bother with a dry test if it only takes a moment extra to do them wet? Steel wheels and bush bearing, just a centre cartridge and the housings are machined. Stock 32/33 are bush and since mine isn't intended to be a full race car and I always take the time to come in steady, I don't really see the need, I have a race car for the expensive work.

Run an oil analysis, it will tell you what wear is occuring. Dan, that sounds a bit better, but do none of these "mechanics" know how to do a "wet" compression test or are they all just slack? Don't have the Sliders yet, and they won't go on until all the bits arrive, but word is they will get you all teh chicks

Tests done have shown 20's lose about 5-10% power across the board as the intake velocities are much slower. The adaptor is for 25's I believe which can run this due to similar displacement.

Another vote for the Same. I have supplied a couple.

Plenty of good advice here. I have a few points of my own to add/support previous comment. Stock airbox will be fine unless you chase mega power. I prefer the factory or Apexi filter, and really don't like oiled filters of any type. I also particularly don't like the HKS stuff either. A matter of personal preference. The Apexis give more flow and clean better than any other common filter, and I'll attach a test to demonstrate. Turbos are all a time bomb if you stick with ceramic. The GTR ones handle a bit more psi than GTSt due to being smaller in diameter so less centrifugal force at the same rpm. Slide will rebuild the stockers for about $1400 for the pair. Good insurance and cheap enough to not say no to, and they will flow about 320awkw with the other additions but keep the boost sensible and it will be fine for the stock setup until you can afford it. I'm gathering bits now and just waiting on the last items to arrive but 700cc injectors, Bosch 044, swirl pot and PFC are all going in together with the Sliding twins (do they sound naughty or what? ). On the compression test side look for 150-170psi with about 1% difference across the pots, higher being much gooderer of course With the heat yesterday the car was running at 100deg oil temp, so a cooler is not a bad thing if you are planning on some track, and as mentioned a relocator will do wonders for maintaining cleanliness. I have a couple of setups waiting to go on the track barge and the GTR, and the best around is the recent group buy by N1GTR, so grease up and he may do a favour...offer dancing and tequila and he can't resist Basically just get used to the car and then start finding more power. They will do silly stuff with a bit extra grunt like torque steer the fronts if you light it up in the wet so you will have to adapt your driving style slightly. Otherwise just buy and enjoy. Air_Filter_Tests.PDF

The man is all class and charm. No wonder he can't drag himself away from the mansion for a few drinks with me. Happy birthday mate.

Yes. There are sets for the inner surface and the outer surface. If dust gets into the door both are exposed. They can be replaced but there will be some work to it, such as glass removal but not too serious.

Wow, for someone on here for such a long time to have posted just once, you must have had to build right up to your very first time, what being so helpful and all. You come across as the typical engineer. Zero people skills, minimal application, no clue. Just take the time to go back over the first post, being the obvious target for your clever deductions from ADR's and consider if Qld Transport might or might not have clarified whether (note spelling, the other type is a nutted sheep) they have a specific concern over vented BOVs. Try not to let your obvious superiority by being an engineer cloud your judgement or ability to read. Take notes if you must. Just so you know, states generally comply with ADRs but must specify their own particular requirements (which can be as simple as stating the ADR or making their own up), hence SA does some things a lot different to say.... Qld. So if Qld Transport say they don't care about atmo BOV then that is what the various elements of the compliance arm must abide by. They cannot decide to commence their own vendetta. As for the noise compliance, the compliance officers must test for all elements that have a specific test associated and not just make a guesstimate, so in this case a driveby test which if memory serves is rolling at 60kmh through the start of the run in third and then flooring the accelerator and travelling the prescribed distance......nope the BOV won't vent for this test. Sure they can have suspiscions but that usually gets reported through Qld Transport/VicRoads etc. They then issue the order for the vehicle to attend testing. They don't run driveby tests as a rule because the cost outweighs the benefit. So thankyou for your highly educated opinion, but some of us here are also engineers and possibly (probably) much better at it than you. This is not the place to get in a pi55ing comp but believe me when I say you will depart embarassed. You may continue lurking. There you will trouble no-one any further.

These pads not only wear out, but they can get choked with dust so when you wash the car you should run water over them by letting the window down a bit and pushing the window in a little. Gives heaps of space to flush. Make sure the door drains aren't clogged too. I got some darkish strips down the drivers window which is the early stages of the wearing, but the pads have plenty of felt left on them. Clark rubber might have something that can be used to replace the pads.

Bugger Sarah, that is a nasty bump to do that to the seat. Take it nice and easy for today and don't be too sad. At least you are pretty good and that is way more important than the car.

How did you not pick the flaggies, Jarrod and yours truly in the SAU autosalon Tee shirts????

Thankyou gentlemen. I might actually give the Wiseco's a shot, but if I can grab Marks number that would be great Paul. PM sent.

Just jumping in with a quick red herring, since the usual suspects are on. Who has CP pistons? I called Rocket for Arias 1.5mmOS for the RB25DETT and they think there will be 8 weeks wait. Personally I'd like to get the block in before that. Any other alternatives? Wiseco? I have a great report on those in Honda but what about in teh RB's? PM or email if you don't want to whore this thread.

Fixed, sorry Peter. Dammit Steve you aren't supposed to read them.......

No untruth so no case. I love how the commonwealth spent a gazillion dollars on my legal training.

Just to determine if you are falling victim to some misconceptions I have added some info I put in another thread. This is my opinion as an Engineer. The difference between bush and ball bearing from an engineering perspective is very little in terms of performance, however a bush will wear slightly faster than a ball bearing. In operation they both run on a film of oil so there is zero wear, but at startup or switch off the bush will spend a miniscule amount of time with the metal surfaces contacting. Taken over a very long period of time the wear adds up, but consider that the stock GTR32/33 turbos are bush and many are still running strong today there is really nothing to worry about if you take the time to warm up and switch off with some thought for the mechanical components of your car. Any bearing can be destroyed with lack of lubrication or lack of mechanical sympathy. Many also consider that a BB will spool faster, but this is mostly due to newer technologies used to lighten the rotating parts of the turbos with BB and not any specifics of the BB vs bush system, while most bush systems have remained static development wise for quite some time. Finally, a highflow still looks exactly the same externally when visually inspected so remains technically completely legal. So for a stock looking setup the value for money remains with the bush bearing at about half the cost of the BB, and that is exactly the direction I have taken.

Stock the comp is 0.53 A/R. Not the first time that hack mag has BS'd the readers. Waste of money to be honest.

Brilliant. Thanks Christian.

Take it up with your insurance for a no fault claim and fight the ticket. The Police should have photos of the accident site and by you fighting the ticket will have to do their calculations and will be able to estimate the speed of the other driver. Accident investigation unit has all the tools to do this. Your insurance company can subpoena the photos and calculations for your defence and to stitch the other driver up. This one is a no brainer unless you were actually in the wrong. Something you have to decide for yourself.

So I have been told. Never taken the time to measure them.

I just measured up. GTS25t injectors are 11.5 ohm GTR injectors are 2.5 ohm Toyota 440cc injectors are 3.5 ohm Hope that helps

Try Doughboy. He has some GTR33 ones with pull clutch. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=147196&hl=

Ali, Nissan will have them in stock mate.

Just to throw an oar in, the difference between bush and ball bearing from an engineering perspective is very little in terms of performance, however a bush will wear slightly faster than a ball bearing. In operation they both run on a film of oil so there is zero wear, but at startup or switch off the bush will spend a miniscule amount of time with the metal surfaces contacting. Taken over a very long period of time the wear adds up, but consider that the stock GTR32/33 turbos are bush and many are still running strong today there is really nothing to worry about if you take the time to warm up and switch off with some thought for the mechanical components of your car. Many also consider that a BB will spool faster, but this is mostly due to newer technologies used to lighten the rotating parts of the turbos with BB and not any specifics of the BB vs bush system, while most bush systems have remained static development wise for quite some time. Finally, a highflow still looks exactly the same externally when visually inspected so remains technically completely legal. So for a stock looking setup the value for money remains with the bush bearing at about half the cost of the BB, and that is exactly the direction I have taken.

No, R34's have ceramic wheel. They do have ball bearings though.