GTRgeoff

Great to deal with. Thanks Elliot.

I could offer a best engineering guess but need to know what material the treads run into. Is it ally or a steel insert?

No worries. There's no accounting for "taste" Basically a quick look at what is intended to be engineered will give the engineer the opportunity to decline to save the modifier money with a couple of quick pointers on why it won't get approval. The engineer will evaluate all aspects of the modification from safety of occupants and those who may be contacted by the vehicle right through to can the vehicle structure handle the power increases and weight increases as well as braking. Some are easy, and some will take significant effort so will cost more. So basically if you intend to undertake a mod that is structural or really off the wall then consult the engineer first, which you clearly intend to do.

Third vote for ~8000rpm due to the hydraulic lifters.

Yeah too much angle. In the track GTSt I took the rear shelf out to use FIA plates under the shelf with eyebolts on top, but in the GTR I use eyebolts straight into the stock seatbelt mounting points.

Engineers don't defect. Consider the pyramid of technical regulation in the automotive world. At the bottom: Cops defect on the basis of suspicion (alleged failure to meet governing regulations), not any actual technical qualification. In the middle: Only a technically qualified person who is so authorised can clear a defect so a mechanic at a roadworthy or RTA/VICRoads. At the top: An Engineer will evaluate a modification technically to determine if it meets the requisite legislation on safety/fit for service so effectively if it is engineered it cannot be defected. I would not even look at something like this, both to save the owner money for not passing an Engineering inspection and to keep the hideous thing out of my sight.

Actually the worst are the ones at the back on the HICAS unit. Clean them and then see how you go.

I intend to do some engineering in Brisbane and I wouldn't approve it. Both dangerous and rediculously ugly.

You shouldn't need to unless doing a hone. The pistons come straight out. Use a block of wood in between to stop them coming all the way and use compresed air to blow them out. One of the easiest jobs yet rarely done.

I just went through the manual and can't find any detail on the torque specs. Since the caliper is alloy I'd leave it for a brake specialist but doubt even they would disassemble this part unless absolutely necessary. For the rebuild kit try www.racebrakes.com.au

Keen on that steering wheel spacer Waz. Do you know if it will fit MOMO wheels (Race in particular)?

OK great.

I don't use them.

So there was Deren new to Brissy and not really knowing anyone, and now he has a fan club following the restoration. Didn't take long.......you're a hit mate. I remember a long while back he was so conscientious that he removed the TBs and cleaned them out, including the mucky sealant around the butterflys . Kind of mucked the idle a bit hey mate? Anyway I saw this car pre rebuild and it was one of the most outstanding stock examples I had seen, but a bit soft in the suspension so that Deren had a bit of a moment when i went through a series of corners at 80 that I normally do in Purple at around 120. Pity the stock shockers can't be rebuilt. Not even sure new ones can be had. After seeing the attention to detail of his early work I knew he had a passion for the spanners and he's turning out to be a pretty good mechanic by the looks. Call you later champ.

It's most often a dodgy connection so go over them and pull them apart and clean with crc/rp7/lanox. As Deren said, only remove HICAS if you have a need like racing or if the problem will start costing more than the bar to fix..

Buggered if I can remember but I'll have to get another soon after this engine freshen......

Hunt the junkyards and old rally magazines Dunc. Someone will have an old Halda lying about And just tell Kel to lean close for the navs. Could do wonders for the relationship....... Seriously, talk to the gravel crew. There is so much noise in a rally car with stones banging underneath they will know the cheapest and best. After 15 years rallying on a budget with no sponsors you get used to second hand and chasing bargains.

Suck it up big boy. Staring down 40 is no big improvement. Party now!!!!

Nissan spare parts, strangely enough.

Onya Jack. Happy birthday mate.

Freight not a problem. Do you have a freight company in mind?

Themes sound good but I won't be tracking the GTR at all, just the 25t with 6 TB and TT's until it's sold for a new project. If my morning times are ok maybe I can hang around for the afternoon.

I'll take the diff if you will post to Melbourne.

I did it doing all the labour and fabrication myself. Have about $3K spare to do it yourself. $5K-7K if you were to pay a workshop. Standard gaskets are expensive, about $400. Another $400 for lines, all the twin exhaust setup fits but the manifolds need to be cut and welded and match ported or an adaptor plate fabricated (part of this revision), fabricate a single AFM intake for the turbos, oil returns are a pig, the list goes on. My goal was TT on a higher compression well built race engine, so I had a logical reason, and now done I'll stick with what I'm doing but not worth it just for bragging rights. I'm still contemplating a decent single and good manifold and selling the "kit" but still running the six throttles. I am in the process of checking over the engine and fitting different turbos, new injectors, GTR throttles and intake and the adaptor for the exhaust manifolds so hope to be running again in about 4 weeks. Didn't get much time to try it as there was a problem with the injectors it seems. With a stuffed back I have been unable to do the pull down.

Mail sent. I'll take the G sensor.