GTRgeoff

Awesome stuff Shell. Money saved for mods and you'll feel better. I felt so much better after 12 years smoking up to 1-1/2 packs a day that within 3 years I had won a silver medal at the national cycling championships. I still like an occasional Havana but only on real special occassions. Now how do I quit having a stuffed back????

So......same old - same old at the rex club. Sad.

89, 109, 110, for me Shan.

Great news Age, but I hope the workload isn't too much. Nice to know we have friends in another club.

Then lend them to Marcus so I can get my polished ones back and flog off my freshly painted auto

Mine have semis on them (32GTR wheels) and I'm pretty sure they are legal but they may add further concerns if the engineer is a bit dense.

Cupholders? WTF for? Nice one mate. You'll be able to slip out for all the shopping now while Bris drinks your beer.

For some reason mine eats O2 sensors and runs super rich with them plugged in so I run them unplugged. Might be worth giving that a try. See how it goes after new turbos, PFC, 044 and 600cc injectors. As it is now it pulls 260rwkw on stock computer with steel wheel stock turbos.

Amazing as it is, I'm calculating from raw numbers rather than any specific calculator so zero consideration of the sliding calipers. All will be revealed when you check your home email but that is exactly the numbers I used. You must consider for all pistons when looking at caliper takeup and the application timing and this is part of the reason i believe the Brembo front/Sumitomo rear setup is so poor. The rears come on far too early and pinch causing discofort for the driver. I've been spending some time on it, because of the "guesstimates" that exist and I simply despise the Brembo front/Sumitomo rear setup as imbalanced and "rice", although Michael is fitting front and rear which is better. Michael the R34's I understand use a larger bolt, much like the 350Z

405.2mm^2 actually so this leaves brake to master ratio 13.76 on a GTR R32 master/GTR calliper ratio 15.43 R33 master/GTR calliper ratio 17.58 This is the ratio of master piston movement to overall brake pad movement

No the mounting points are in the same place, so the calipers have the extra radius built in. Not my favourite mod for the money asked for these calipers.

Err, wanna check that mate? Ill send you my favourite brake document.

Shan, the latest useful GTR and Skyline (inc 350GT) for me mate.

And that's why I'm going in that direction......

That will be a seal problem if you are stationary, if driving for a while it could be knockoff. Without having a look into the master as well initial soft pedal could be the bypass dimension. In order for the piston to fill with fluid as the pads wear the pressure seal has to bypass the feed tube from the reservior. If it is set to go too far past it will force fluid back into the reservior until it goes past (soft pedal) and then the pedal will firm up, but now we are getting real picky. Every mm it moves though is magnified by the pedal ratio. This site is alway interesting and does better diagrams than I have time for. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake1.htm

Sk would have noted that already on the RB powered race cars he deals with, so clearly not a problem. I'm about to pull down my 25 that I had blocked the front supply off on so will know soon enough. Clearly this is not just a return problem but a oversupply problem at high RPM as well, hence the restrictions.

I don't use a cockpit (space is the main concern), but have a great chair with 2 motion drivers for extra feedback, TrackIR for head motion simulation, Logitech Momo FF wheel and these GTR games follow on from the realism of the GP Legends game. There is no such thing as too realistic.

You bastard Will. I bet that was the one I was trying to grab I've been on the Nissan Japan website and the CVT8 is the most expensive in the range, but resale is not holding up. Good for us.

Same here. But I think I can make a go of SCUBA instructor with some selective building performance cars, engineering modifications and doing a few things with the wife in the real estate area. Variety is the key for me now but I can't just do the one thing. Will, that's about the price I'm looking at for base style if I must. I saw a vid of the new GTR prototype and it sounded like it has the same box.

Really Ash? Of course you can argue it, because a lot of those "extras" are hidden in the price with a markup and they expect people to mindlessly think they are being looked after when in fact a costing exercise will show how much premium you are paying for those valueless extras. A lot of warranties are only worth what they feel like honouring, so some get lucky and the rest get screwed. It's not exactly like I have no understanding of the mechanics or the law is it mate? I put zero faith in a warranty that I haven't specifically negotiated line by line, and I've only done a few in the $10-30million range. Your first mod can negate any warranty obligation. Paying your own TF costs has certain .... advantages. You'll work it out one day. The govt already reaps enough tax for doing SFA. The bottom line is the bottom line. You dn't want to come away from a car yard with a warm fuzzy I've been looked after feeling because you paid a premium and got a cappuchino. You want the best price and then never have to think about them again.

You have asked some very good questions which not everyone would consider as usually they take out what they have. If this is to be an extra car then I would suggest get a trailer and buy a Skyline imported for race/rally only. That way it is much cheaper since it isn't really road registerable. Either a 32 or 33 would be fine. Essentially the same running gear and you can strip down the extra weight and fit a cage. I have found that Skylines can be hard working on so I'm going the RX7 or Miata with a V8 route and will trailer to the races. I've had some fun racing the GTS25t but it is registered so i wouldn't want to destroy it. My expected setup costs for either would be 12K plus the trailer. then it would be a gradual improvement to bring the best out. Buying already modded is a good idea, but if it has been raced the price usually goes higher than you would expect. Budget what you can afford to completely destroy, but it has to bring the smile to your face. Forget insurance for a race car. Consider having a couple of sets ot wheels and tyres, plus a set of stockers to park the car on. if you haven't raced before then do a few days on normal radial tyres then go to semi-comp rubber. Set the car up to run on PULP and not exotic race fuel. Set the brakes up as soon as you can and get rid of any ABS as it can cause you to keep a high speed through sand traps rather than locking and bogging in to a stop before a nasty wall. Consider that you may want to race in a class going door to door, so keep your mods in line with what that may restrict you to. If you go overboard you may have to de-modify the car later, but if you decide to just do sprints where anything goes then you can build up to it. I'm near Epping so drop by sometime and we can discuss further.

$100 is a completely fair price to ask for a working pump.

Nissan FAST spares system shows both as the same part number and the same flow rate. I have both cars and have had both oil pumps apart but the fact I'm a highly experienced mechanic and highly qualified Engineer obviously mean nothing. Do not expect to lie to forum members and get away with it. They are the same item, not an "upgrade".

Not ordered yet. I need to rid myself of about 3 cars first, starting with the auto 33 which is just back from getting painted, then the lengthy process of finding the right combination. Slow improvement with the back, still a lot of nerve damage but I have the right after surgery care so things have turned a corner. Will still take a year or so before I can work, but that's life. They pay me for a few years after disability reetirement and then kick in retraining if the old type of work is unachievable.

20 psi is not good. 120psi is also not good so perhaps the salesman has no idea. Always take your car to a 3rd party for inspection. What Kyle has mentioned above is good info. With that mileage, and that damage the car is simply overpriced. Also, at risk of offending your dad, sounds like has doesn't have much of an idea as well if he can tell a car is "thrashed" from a few photos. Get an RACV inspection on any car you want if you aren't mechanically minded. An example, I have a 94 GTS25t I have run on the track. It's now twin turbo and has so many improvements it would take too long to list them and I'm about to rebuild the engine again and the gearbox syncros before doing a few more track days. I'll be selling it for a dedicated race car instead so you could say, yes, it has been thrashed and will continue to be thrashed around the track, but also lovingly and expertly maintained by a serious racer who just happens to be a very good mechanic and a mechanical engineer. Attention to detail is the difference and it will be so much more than an 8-10yo car that has been grannied around by some sook with a degree in hair product. Hope that offers some perspective. I think you would do much better with a private sale and Atreyu's sounds good if that is more what you are after.