GTRgeoff

OR...don't waste money on Jap stuff and use the Whiteline caster and camber kits. Do you have any real idea what camber and caster actually work best on these cars? No don't answer, just go back to whatever ricer/dorifto tool site you came from. Let me guess, another half witted midnight drifter with bugger all real racing experience? That type of driving is fine for drift days, but will get you kicked out of a proper track day and will hopefully have your car impounded if you do it on th streets. Back to FF and NS sites for you!

I have a hand controller that might suit this, if it helps your sale (and mine). http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...iew=getlastpost

Considering the price new, it is a bargain. Feel free to take your comments elsewhere.

LOL @ Darwin shipping. Lived there a couple of years and always got the week to 6 weeks line on delivery from down south. Funny that overnight is still overnight though......although I've had a lock bar take 2 weeks 40 km across Melbourne.

Oh very nice. [clapping]

Thanks mate. Still haven't used the seats. This is just a GTR copy, but too wide for GTS25t without work.

So glad I reread my BS I post

Amazed the only people who want this want to haggle price. Already a bargain.......

I have an R33 GTR fibreglass bar that I was going to modify to fit my GTS25t track car, but it is going to be too much stuffing about for me. $250 pick up from South Morang. Can arrange shipping at your expense. Comes with mesh. Don't need it for my GTR as I have an original spare. It will fit in the front of an R33 with some acrobatics, and yes you can drive the car Perfect for anyone called Scotsman Cheers Geoff

I've reported filthy sh*tbox cars blowing heaps of oily smoke. One I was stuck behind at Maccas and almost choked before I could get the A/C to recirc. Dirty Magna!! Problem is anyone can do it and we already have cars that are a target of hate and envy.

Doh! Outsmarted myself. Neos already have solid buckets

Glad you like it Duc. Yes you do need some heavy tools but they aren't all that expensive from supercheap. With the offsets, do you think it might have been better around the other way? I'm thinking I might have got them mixed around at some stage so folks are putting them in the wrong way to match the slot location.

Forgies are pretty well mandatory in RB25s but I think the Neo is a bit better built considering only a few ringland issues recorded, plus they come stock with GTR spec rods. The head stuff is unecessary unless wanting to rev beyond 8000-8500 regularly and even then the valves will be a limiting factor, as well as the hydraulic buckets. Just putting into perspective why you would need to install such items. I'm all for a completely tuff engine, but only if you will actually use the expensive items.

Valve seats don't just pop out, or disappear. Get the fragments and photograph them clearly on the broken surfaces. Rods should not need a resize unless the bearings have spun and damaged the journals. Get them x-rayed though for cracks. Costs about $20. You would balance it while it is apart. Again, doesn't cost much but doing all the right things adds up. Also get the crank checked for straightness. I don't see the need for a 1.2mm gasket for the low power you will be running. It will just hurt engine response. Use a stock gasket and O ring the block. Same with valve springs (unless you are using a big big cam) and studs. They are not a normal point of failure on engines running upwards of 300 rwkw and I assume the NOS is just a 50hp shot, so unless you have plans of a big kW engine they will be just bragging goodies.

Ben the thread can look just fine, but won't reveal if a fatigue failure is propogating. Just go to an engineering materials supplier and tell them you need a high grade item of 8.8 minimum and take the old ones as samples.

Hughesy is a 'tard and totally not funny. Sif anyone would want to pimp a prem (whatever that is, hopefully not Bracks the other class 'tard of Victoria) Enjoy the party?

Interesting to see SK posting in such a discussion, and I agree with everything you say there mate. I concentrate a lot on peoples perceptions and attitudes when training drivers, especially heavy vehicles. I've also been very active with a national road safety program called Roadsense where I've done some human factors engineering work to demonstrate the cost of forcing drivers to concentrate on their speedos rather than the road and teaching them to properly judge the appropriate situational speed. Also, without being sexist, some of the toughest discussions I've had are with young females who believe they are safe drivers because they never, ever exceed the speed limit, but they violently argue and refuse to accept that they can't do the limit in bad weather. Their argument is that surely, because the government has decreed some arbitrary number as the safe speed it is suitable for all situations. Is it just me or is this a growing perception in young drivers that the limit is safe regardles of conditions? Perhaps there is a developing attitude that we will all be safe as long as they don't speed, fuelled by the government propaganda rather than real common sense. It certainly doesn't help when Monash Uni is supporting it (to the tune of big bucks of government support) and many other academic institutions don't.

Yes, buy replacement Bolts. Make sure they are high grade (8.8 minimum) as a couple of failures have resulted fom snapped bolts. Troy, aren't all RB tensioners and idlers the same?

Which piston did the valve break in? 1 or 4? As mentioned before bolting the cam down at top dead centre (#1) can cause the valves to contact a high piston and bend or break as the cam may not be perfectly aligned for that timing. A valve seat would not do this at all unless dislodged. Was there part of a valve seat sitting loose in the cylinder? He is clearly not a good mechanic. Viewers may have already worked that out. He should have cranked the engine off TDC and put the cams in then retimed and fitted the timing belt. Then he should have cranked it over a couple of times using a ratchet off the harmonic balancer bolt to ensure there was no confliction of the moving parts. He should have stopped immediately there was noise as well, not continued on with a compression test. If he refuses to repair the damage he has caused take the head and valve piece to a place that does engineering materials analysis for a report on the cause of the failure. They will know if the seat or fatigue or sheer ham-fistedness caused the breakage. You can use the report in a small claims case for compensation.

Ignore that. Costs no more to run than my GTSt and insurance is the same at $800. He already has plenty done to it. Needs shiny TE37's though.

Not that common but I suspect it was not warped at all but has an area that had the brakes held on after a big stop getting the discs hot. Pad material migrates into the disc and the steel changes into a different form that is harder wearing, so as it wears a shudder appears. Time for new discs. Get RDA for good value.

How much for the remaining front drive shafts?

GTR cams in GTS25t is a no go. Get nothing under 5000rpm due to compression loss. You also lose VCT on the inlet but if you are happy to lose that then they are perfect for a regrind at Ivan Tighe Engineering Brisbane for extra lift. Disappointed Nick. Nothing I want mate.

Razor, there is zero difference between R32, R33 and R34 Brembos front or rear, except the colour. Hope you didn't pay a premium. I recommend pull everything down and service the seals, use braided brake lines, get a good master cylinder stopper (I make mine from 10mm steel plate) and regularly flush the lines. Also don't use crap pads like Bendix Ultisquish but the Ferodos should be fine.

Those ratios are front to rear area, or the volume of fluid units it will take to displace the pads the same distance per caliper, not the whole setup bias which has to account for pad size and torque arm effort. The actual areas of the Brembo calipers' pistons are about 200mm^2 per caliper larger than GTSt so for the whole setup you are looking at 800mm^2 extra area to push, which means the R33 master will be using a fair amount of travel to do the job. One day I'll finish the document I'm working on with all the pedal arm dimensions and pedal travels as well as full bias ratios from pad sizes and disc diameters, but if anyone wants to measure R32 and R34 brake pedal arm lengths from the pivot to end and pivot to master cylinder pushrod in mm I'd be grateful. I'm pretty picky about brakes, and once I have the pedals setup I like to heel-toe, but if the brake pedal falls too much it makes it hard for me as I don't have the leg flexibility to do it anyother way so hit the gas pedal when braking.