GTRgeoff

Oiled filters are not legal and K&N doesn't filter that well anyway. That leaves Apexi. I get 260rwkw in the GTR with an Apexi panel.

Given that GTSS equivalents from Garrett are about $1250 each for my GTR, I'd expect to be able to get something for the GTS25t about the same. That means that highflowing is just not economically viable at those prices. Sure there are parts and labour, but I see often enough guys getting charges 8500-9000 for a similar engine build inc RR to my last one. Parts/machining around 3K so that's 5500-6000 for labour for 25 hours of labour. Work it out. Someones taking prices a bit high here. A little bird suggested I could get both GTR turbos highflowed for $1200 to make 300awkw from someone who will remain currently anonymous. Ask Slide for a price on a Garrett or similar. And get teh chicks.

Don't know in Melbourne, but try Slide on the forum here of sliding performance or contact GCG in Sydney or better yet contact Sydneykid about his group buy of highflow turbos.

Meh, 70:30 sounds too much. Soarer V8's are mostly ally so quite light, but by the time I put in a full cage it will balance again. And it won't cost $100K Hey Munky, did you see that damaged one advertised on here?

Still looking for new home

Oh yeah, agree with Emsta. I'm doing the head on one right now for a mate off a 1.8 MX-5. You can safely go to redline in neutral. Also look for blue smoke on backoff.

Awesome handling on these. My dream is to get a cheap one imported for race and whack a soarer V8 in the front end. ctjet wouldn't ever catch me Ignore everyone else and just enjoy a brief nip out for fun. But the roofs are the only problem i know of. How sweet is the new folding lid MX-5???

Underpants Gnome Business model - shared with you by Beer Baron Inc. phase 1: collect underpants phase 2: ? phase 3: profit ????? Phase 2: attach wickedly cool logo and sell to dumbass kids with mobile phone fetish Phase 4: drink until falling down

R32 uppers are a known problem when pulling extra castor in. I'm certain SK has acknowledged and discussed this before. Must be time someone put together a decent rose joint setup with the expensive bushes and weather seals for these ancient old girls jsu to give them some movement for castor.

Alex, I despise Bendix. Dusty and spongy. RB74 from Racebrakes for the street and some fun stuff. Marcus, they will never fit under the 16's from my GTSt. Just drop them off to me..... Actually I might need them sometime, so let me know the progress report on the car. Jack, haven't forgotten me have you mate? Cheers

OK the first problem listed is often associated with incorrect HICAS rack position input, although it sounds quite severe in this case. When a lock bar is fitted the light comes on and at low speeds the steering can become quite firm, due to the lost feedback. I would strongly recommend that the plugs at the HICAS rack be removed and cleaned and replugged. It is a very odd problem though as it usually happens from startup, but could be due to an intermittent problem so when it can't resolve it goes into fault mode. You can do this yourself. Buy some contact cleaner spray from Dick Smith. When the steering wheel input sensor has a fault (it is behind the steering wheel and needs the stock wheel or a special boss to rotate it) it usually takes 8-9km (strangely about 5-10 min driving depending on speed limit) before it turns on the light, and symptoms range from hard steering to the rear and steering over to full lock so the car is crabbing down the road. It could also be the HICAS computer under the rear parcel shelf, and if your stereo install was back there there could have been contact and damage, or a wire spliced into for power etc. Check it out. Guys like Sydneykid have a mantra....."HICAS is not your friend". It was just novelty BS for marketing and all fast race Skylines remove it as it helps make oversteer unpredictable and has put a couple of my mates into the wall. I personally don't care where you get one from but when problems start getting this expensive it's time to ditch the idiotic junk. Nengun sell the Tomei lock with the black box to get rid of the warning lamp and trick the computer so you don't get hard steering. Lock bars need the dash removed and the globe pulled (half an hours work) and adjustable castor bushes so that with extra castor you don't feel the harder steering at low speed. I don't feel it at all on my R33 race car with 7 degrees castor. Maintenance wise, bugger all if kept fairly stock or well tuned and not driven like it's stolen. My auto GTS25t has cost virtually nothing kept stock. Oil changes and tyres since I imported it in 98. On the other hand the track car is on its 3rd engine build due to a twin turbo experiment that failed. 10K km old race engine buggered. The GTR33 though has cost bugger all in the last 18 months of ownership pushing 260rwkw. A new IC hose when one split, which you have to expect on a car 11 years old with an extra 100 odd rwkw. Hope that helps. get under tha back (safely) and clean those contacts.

Pity about Scotty Kev, was a very enthusiastic guy. I used to do something similar in Brisbane when i was rallying. Had a railway line crossing on top of almost the same profile but wider, so I'd hit it at 80kmh and just gently touch down on the other side. Of course you can't go past balancing a Leopard tank on a knife edge for sublime, except maybe crossing a donga that's too wide flat out with just throttle control to rock the tank so you transition from one side to the other without hurting yourself and the 42 tons of steel, stuff it and you nose in....hard.

Did the candy apple/crystal red on the 33 auto calipers. Looks good and dust doesn't stick from those cheap but crap Bendix pads.

Only if you're a fat bastard like me.......

Speaking of looks, I'll be pulling the Bremmies off to fit braided lines and give them a recolour in the same crystal Metalcast red I have on the engine covers, similar i guess to SK's.

He has it Harry, watch the vid....

I think I need to go wash...... Dane, you and Bris need to get a room.....

Plenty of us slide aour GTRs around at motorkhanas and skidpan events, but just for faster times on tight layouts, otherwise "drift" is crap. Here is Scotsman at Dutton Vic last weekend. Scotsman and the tyres end result after 3 days trashing http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=56700

v-spec means very little if you plan to change the suspension, and if you have problems with the active diff you'll regret it, although they work fine until then and there seems no difference in handling on the track. Non v-specs are equipped with a mechanical 2-way diff at the rear. But yes, get the colour you want. Purple is good

Ahhhh, another with a brake fetish

Try Google earth. Looks real pretty. FFS it's one of my everlasting symbols of home, and never fail to take a drive up when visiting.

Getting a few tyre kickers and silly offers. Price is fair at $280. I'll keep it rather than sell it for less.

You're right Keith, Steerin wheel position is the next point of call but sometimes people let their fluid get that low. If I gave a detailed explanation first time I'd be on here forever. HICAS has been covered so many times it's ridiculous, but massaging the search function to get the best out of it takes time. Maybe it's time I did an FAQ sticky and a decent entry in the Wiki. Jace, sounds like you have 2 different problems. First, does the light come on after about 8-9km? Is your steering wheel original? You realise the HICAS is run by a separate computer completely from the ECU? Did they separate, clean and reconnect the plugs to the HICAS unit? Again, putting the HICAS into diagnostic mode can help so search for the sequence. Stock ECU's can be had on here for as little as $100, so assuming the "fix" was just for the HICAS you were totally ripped off. In fact a power FC is $900ish delivered or $1040 if in a hurry. Your missing problem at idle is reasonably common. Is it an auto? In D and idling makes it feel worse. It's just dropping a cylinder. Could be a cracked coil pack housing allowing an earth leakage so not enough spark to fire the cylinder. Is it just dying to really low revs? could be the throttle position sensor not set right and the idle adjustment is out. If you have a problem, detail what is going wrong as much as possible. Save the 20 questions routine. We love to help people but spend too long guessing what might be wrong. Think functional grouping of components that may be contributing. ie the steering is going hard. Is there a warning light, how are my fluids, what steering wheel do i have on the car, have I hit a kerb while doing fully sik dori dori's, are all the belts ok and that kind of stuff? Just to help us out. Cheers

You are a dead man walking

Yes, but air has mass and therefore momentum so if it is able to continue to maintain velocity it will be more efficient at cooling and will utilise all available paths to escape rather than stagnating in a dead end with only the vanes to run out.