GTRgeoff

Pic

Try here Deren http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;st=4200

Ah, the "drivers car" line always makes me laugh. With several hundred thousand kays of heavy and specialist loads driving, driving instructor for defensive and offensive military driving, sports sedans, formula ford, GTSt at track days, good performances in GTR at motorkhanas and rallying for 15 years I consider myself a "driver". Never once considered a Silvia or Integra a proper sports car. Both easy enough for a numpty to drive and the Integra is about the pick of FWD. You really need to try a GTR or M3 SMG, there is a massive gulf in performance and handling. But for me a drivers car is one that is comfortable and will easily handle long distances without tiring you but still deliver good handling and power. Say a Soarer V8 and they still do 1:58's at the Island on semi's. Race drivers look for something else again. What I'm yet to confirm is if Nissan did start to setup all series 2 (for want of a better term) 350Z's with the euro spec suspension which really improved the car. In that case Laurens, and possibly the one you drove, will be a better car than the one I drove. Anyway Lauren/Duncan/Kel are the only ones of us who is living with a Z, and Jimbo has the GT, on a daily basis so the real aspects of ownership are denied the rest of us. I think they are both good cars, and really nitpick when looking at something new until I'm satisfied I want it, but with the GT I just buy the car and do what I'm told.

...and...the active diff can be an expensive biatch to repair apparently, where the 'normal' diff is a loosely setup 2-way.

They will as long as your wheels clear them. PM sent Adrian. Also interested in front right driveshaft only, mine has split the rubber boot so i want one while I reco it. Interested in the motor as well. How long did it continue running while turned over? Just a general idea as I'd have to completely pull down anyway to inspect. Cheers and sorry to hear of the rollover.

Hit the gym, get some beef about you and get a HARLEY you fcukin' poof Seriously they are just wrong mate.

Haven't driven the GT yet, but reports are it handles better than the Z which I was not overly impressed with when I drove one. Engine was OK but no top end. Handling was underster with stab control on and too snappy without but you get that with short wide cars, inherently unstable. Punchy engine down low though. Certainly heaps better than the RX8 I caned around last week. The owner of the 8 needed a GTR reality check after and just kept wetting himself everytimg he floored the gas pedal. He's still dribbling. Hope you still like it though Lauren. It's all about personal taste so ignore us.

Too true. But a 1.51? you should have gone straight to the sin-bin

Far Canal!!!!

Yeah I remember the one. It was the BBQ weekend for me I think. Chasing a boost leak I still rolled around in 2.02 on road rubber and got told off, so if you were squeezing it a bit Snowy then they would have got stuck right in. Dammit I was squirting it on the straights and rolling through the corners. Guess that shows how bad the blown shock was if the best I could do was a 2.00 pushing it Jack will be pushing the red BBQ trolley in sometime soon for me to work on so I can maybe make these

If these are the ball bearing model like the 2860s I'm certainly interested. A far better option than rebuilding my R34 GTR turbos. Get the pics and some futher detail and get back to us mate, and fair call on the totally unreasonable offer.

I'll keep my ear to the ground and see how I'm feeling. Must be time to drag Nelly into town for a few drinks and maybe Stacey can convince her to come and play at the track with me

What can I say? Fabulous effort Powerplay. Most would have been put off entirely at the thought of compliance. So where do I sell my body for a ride ?

Sorry mate, my contacts are with Ozemail and Stone Brothers so Ford only.

Adam, certainly this will work fine as you say. The AFM is a hot wire anemometer, so the volume of air passing is cooling it, needing a greater current to maintain the same temperature. When you increase the volume of air passing in a given time then it requires less current, and so signals less air is passing and therefore less fuel is required (DANGER!! Possibility of leanout and detonation). A retune will simply correct the relationship so you now freer flowing AFM can deliver the air you need. Rule number one team, if it sounds too good to be true it probably is! Rule two, you get nothing without having to pay for it some way! So there are no easy ways to increase power dramatically without a decent retune. JE on Autospeed did the bypass method and adjusted using the Digital Fuel Adjuster.

Yeah there are always differences in experience. For cheap and easy to get I've been using Bendix Ultimates in the V8 Soarer and Auto 25t, and the track 25t before the RB74s with braided lines and a stopper. Always feel the same to me, grabby but soft and squishy after and not linear so too easy to lock up as you just can't "feel" the progresion. The RB74s can be a little hard on the first application on a cold morning but have always felt good and firm and progressive. Oh I forgot to mention I'm a stickler for bleeding before an event and with every service so it wasn't that or the lines.

Thanks, my point exactly. $1500 would be the limit of value I could put on rebuilding the R34 turbos I have.

I hate the Ultimates almost as much as wankers in commonwhores with no grip on reality. Soft underfoot, grabby initially and not linear relative to pressure. And they are dusty. Greenstuff are not so dusty but never recommended for a large car on track, even by EBC. Hawk, pagid, Ferodo, Racebrakes Rb74/Comp2/9 are all loved and hated but they are a starting point.

Hell yeah, and I've seen what some of the bandits want to rebuild turbos with steel wheels. My GTR turbs were about $2700 going by the receipt, but I'd be chasing some Garrett cheaters for that money, GTSS equivalents are about 1200-1300 each and look stock.

But it has to come off some time Chris so I don't recommend it. Talk to the supplier and check the dimensions, my suggesdtion is it didn't get checked at manufacture. It shouldn't be an interference fit but a sliding fit. A machine shop or engine builder should be able to quickly take it out to the right dimension

Oh and the nut was the one behind the wheel.......

Steel Wheels on the back end or the stock ceramics? No damage at the back end whe the foreign object went through? PM me the shop details please mate? I wanna keep the TT concept running even if I am going to sell the car and get something else for track.

In my case it wasn't the adaptor kits, it was the single afm piping and the braided hosing for oil and water. R34 turbs were only 800. Felt really punchy on the first drive too. Higher compression ratio and R34BBTT is a good combo, brings on boost almost as fast as my highflow single but it ran out at 220rwkw. buckets of power down low though. I didn't go with the adaptor plats as I didn't want to push too close to the shock tower.

16 days to close of entries guys. We need to finalise entries, gather to complete the entry form and centralise the entry fees for payment. We won't get a club meeting in before the entries close. Those that want to compete or attend and assist/support, can you give a firm indication if you haven't already? Brisnosaurus, can you update the list of entrants?

It's done in big installations where they can use multiple stage turbos and multiple stage intercooling. The wastegate gas goes straight into the next turbo, but by the tim you need to start doing that you go with an axial flow design. Just not necessary on a car to achieve that level of efficiency.