GTRgeoff

Just use an Apexi panel and get the stock airbox back on unless you need to run huge power. My GTR runs the same size panel as the GTSt's with 260rwkw so decent power is not a problem, it just has more air inlets to the box and that can be corrected with a with of imagination and cutting and ducting. Plus you can then run a decent front mount without defect.

Dammit, I can't wait to get up there and run for council....... One of the fastest GTR's down here is the Racepace GTR which does 1.15 at Sandown (V8SC 1.11) is dead quiet so noise is not a real problem, but it is an attractive factor of motor sport. Why go to a rock concert if they aren't damaging your hearing?

You have to remind yourself just how many things put into cars are just gimmicks for marketing. Back then 4WS was the big gimmick on Japanese cars. We know it was a gimmick because it's almost completely gone. I used to operate 20ton 4WD 4WS cross country cranes which can counter and crab steer, as well as reverse the steering input if the boom is over the back. Not a gimmick for getting that big sucker through tight areas but in cars....useless. I've driven a number of different types of race cars from rally, formula ford and sports sedans as well as R32/R33 GTSt/GTR and front wheel drives with and without 4WS. I can honestly state that I can feel the rear moving about in the Skylines with HICAS and I prefer the natural and progressive consistency of the rear being straight, without input from a rear rack at speed. Low speed 4WS makes no difference as it's for parking. The big thing is though that not everyone pushes it hard enough or has the feedback sensitivity to warrant a change, but that comes through experience. If it works fine and you don't feel it impact then leave it alone. The way HICAS pulls the car around is after you lose rear traction. It works in phase with the steering input, so once you wind on some opposite lock it turns the rear wheels in the same direction which tries to pull the tail out. It only turns a bit so unless you can be pretty quick on the wheel it goes threough a transition stage then stops at 1deg so you can be constantly correcting for it, especially if you are in second gear with the rear loose and right on the threshold of the HICAS activation speed of around 80kmh. There are other things that help to destabilise the rear end as well like the subframe bushes which I could feel squirming around during turn in, but they also are easily fixed. Part of the drama of owning an ageing car is the need, especially if you go to the track, is constantly inspecting for things that might be about to let go so going to track is a good way of motivating to keep the car tip top.

Get some OMD 115 from Army. OMD stands for Oil-Mineral Detergent. I swear by the cheapest natural oil I can buy for run in and clean out.

Club meeting tues nite. Be there!!! I'll be the guy in the Skyline Jacket

Interested in the diff cradle axles. Are hubs included? If so I'll start off at $600 plus delivery. Location? BTW before anyone else takes a shot, you are required to post starting prices or risk having the thread closed. Cheers

I could cry at missing this. Still stuck in Vic recovering from back surgery. Victoria-miserable one day, shithouse the next.

Whats the plates say? Damn? (real thing for sale here in Vic, same colour scheme)

bren, R33's have variable rate power steering that gets harder over 80kmh. With the HICAS unit unplugged, unless you have the Tomei black box the steering can firm up at low speeds like 40-50kmh. Never really bothered me but some get really wrapped around the axles over any minor thing, I think their mothers breast fed them too long, but a bit of extra caster just makes it almost unnoticable.

Vetoed!!! She still wants a 350GT CVT8 with paddleshift. Black, big deep dish chromies and a nice kit.... Still want one though....oh and a series 6 RX7 for track only. What did these 20B's have? Something like 400Nm torque at around 3000rpm. Yeah!!!

No need to be abusive. I'm a true maroon Queenslander that's just been sentenced to too long in victoria - miserable one day, shithouse the next!!!

You NSW guys are all poofs....except B-man That is one slick machine Brendan. What was the sting? I've wanted one forever.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry2396250

Tommy, the arms are different, so no. bren....I hate you. Spa and the 'ring. Done helping you mate! You'll probably find it less chuckable with the 2-way as it will force a little understeer (a 1.5 would be better for circuit) so get some adjustable caster bushes or arms and pull about 7 deg of caster on the right and a little more on the left to counter the road camber during normal driving. this will counter the occasional "hardening" of the steering at low speed with the HICAS unplugged, unless you have a black box fitted to trick it. The extra caster also sharpens turn in dramatically and makes the car feel smaller and far more nimble. Enjoy. You bastard!!

Sold. Thanks to all who enquired.

They won't fit R33 GTSt. No idea on Brisbane freight and since I've recently had back surgery (again dammit) I can't lug them around to get quotes. Lat set I had delivered with TOLL was about $30 for someone who had an account.

Yeah, wasn't taking a shot. Just establishing the difference between the systems. I'd suggest for inexperienced drivers the changes could be difficult to deal with. You have the track background and experience where maybe you just accept it and modify your driving style as I do. Once I'm up to installing the lock in the GTR33 I can start to explain the changes it makes. Not that I track it. Only do DECA and a few nice roads as well as it being the daily.

That was the Super HICAS on 32's Harry and it's common knowledge the GTR32 behaves in a much more rear dominant way to 33's and 34's. When we get to 33 the HICAS is electric and operates over 80kmh and in the same direction as the steering input to induce understeer by holding the rear in. This is great for normal driving by normal drivers. We then take the car to the track or get it loose during some spirited driving and the HICAS gives us understeer into a corner, so the driver turns in harder and eventually some oversteer may occur. The driver then corrects oversteer by turning on some opposite steering and the HICAS follows pulling more oversteer into the equation. We now enter tankslapper phenomena and this is exacerbated by the useless viscous LSD in 33's which are easily overpowered once hot. As the inexperienced driver tries to correct and stay on the gas to keep going the car becomes more unstable as the HICAS keeps dragging the rear about, eventually going around and all to often hitting a wall at the track. Now a HICAS lock isn't for everyone. On my GTR33 I barely notice HICAS because it has AWD and a decent LSD, as does a GTR32, but on both R33 GTS25t's it was noticeable enough, especially on my track car that I got rid of it. The auto is a pretty stock car and I don't stick it to it on the streets so no point losing the HICAS.

Mufasa, bring it around sometime to give me a demo. I also have an auto 25t to compare with with the stock computer and box. Been interested in the MV shift kit.

Lotsa fun. Been playing a little over the last fews weeks, got some serious problems with my new AGP card with tearing and a stutter in all my games. Must be time for another reinstall, or maybe WinXP64.

Wanna get rid of these. $650 ono

I'd avoid the Bendix completely. Grabby at first application and spongy pedal as you brake harder, plus dusty filthy things. I only put them in the crappomatic, but only because I am going to sell it. RB74's have been good to me but I believe in maintaining corner speeds and managed 1:31's on normal street rubber and a blown right rear shock at Sandown while being held up, with 1:29's a possible like that. Sandown and PI only have a couple of big braking points though so they get a fair while to cool. Never had a problem with overheating them. Great pedal feel and good progression. Great buy at the price, but if you are going to seriously upgrade for the track then dive into the Ferodos.

That is most certainly the injector resistor pack. Nice effort Mark. Just wondering if it wouldn't be easier putting the straight ends onto the block end and the elbows ate the relocated filter end? That's how I intend to fit it in the GTR33 with the oil cooler kit I have. Should be a bit easier to install.

There is a time and a place for everything fritter you f*cktard, and having club members like Graeme that also have the opportunity to influence his colleagues is extremely rare. He has been a positive contributor to the forum and gives legitimacy to our club values and ethos of keeping it off the street. We cannot afford to drag down his reputation when he is defending ours by supporting the member who so idiotically broke the law. What he has done is wrong. In this club, and on this forum we do NOT support misbehaviour on the streets! The member in questions should perhaps come clean, take it on the chin and apologise to the members of the forum, the SAUVic club (since he is a memebr) and to Graeme for undoing so much good work. If he has done no defensive driving course then he should make an undertaking to the members to complete one with Kevin Flynn (one of our sponsors) and then keep it clean until his credibility can be re-earned. I was no angel when younger, but I didn't have the strong support of a family like SAU Vic and the wider SAU to show me it wasn't appropriate behaviour. Mostly just speeding but all the same just wrong. Clean for 11+ years. We (our hard working comittee and WRX club more specifically) provide outlets for these urges, take advantage of them. Hoonish behaviour like street racing could result in the impounding of the car. That is certainly an option Graeme and his partner could have exercised.

They look pretty good to me alfa. Thanks for the comments. I use auto 2 pack from my local auto paint centre. Paint in a custom booth with extractor fan and internal lighting. Also managed to get Midnight purple mixed in 2 pack so I can "do some touchups" on my GTR, as well as finish the Tamiya model I got. The Dino is amazing and must be a "must have" kit. I Have one somewhere but doubt it is worth that.