GTRgeoff

I'm with Roy. Coilover means the coil is over the shock and thus this is standard for a Skyline. Adjustable heights don't make them a coilover. Just because they are adjustable doesn't mean you have actually broken the law. If you set them too low then 1. wear the fine, and 2. your car WILL handle like crap. As lomg as the item meets travel and quality of manufacture requirements it is legal, else the entire non-genuine spare parts business is illegal.

Mate you forgot F*CKTARDS with fog lights.

Cmon, frameless windows mean with a bit of coathanger wire you can be in in 30 seconds.

Just use a big spanner.

No worries mate, I'll go a bit long on this one for other readers. Air has mass, so as well as having static or guage (Boost) pressure it has momentum or velocity pressure. Consider a really big pressure vessel where the air is sitting still. If the compressor were operating in there at atmo pressure then you instantly change the pressure to one bar there would be little difference in what was going on with the compresor. It would just be stirring the air around. It isn't the boost pressure that is being released by the BOV. In the engine the air is moving from one place to another at a high speed so has serious momentum. When the throttle body closes the air has to stop or go elsewhere, usually as a reversion wave like water hammer when you turn the tap off fast which goes back to hit the compressor which is slowed but then continues to try to force the air in so people without BOVS get their voop-voop-voop sound which is the compressor being hit by air impulses. Impulse energy is not good for any mechanical device and for a turbo would mean much increased loadings on the bearings and even seals as well as possible beyond fatigue limit loading of the shaft meaning it could snap off after a few thousand of these impulses. When a BOV opens it releases the air momentum to allow the compressor to continue spinning. Because air has momentum it also aids in dragging air through the compressor without the aid of the turbine forcing it along so reduces the drag keeping the rotating velocity high so potential energy is there to bring boost back on faster. Much like a helicopter pilot who loses engine power can wind off pitch on the main rotor and dive to maintain rotor speed so he can pull pitch at the right time to do an auto-rotation landing. When you have a too small capacity BOV the air will continue to escape in a continuous rushing sound. If it is way too small you will get some reversion noises. A large one, depending on sensitivity will either open and close rapidly (very sensitive) or make a single release sound which will reduce in intesity untill equalising but still giving a slight flutter. I ran 2 on the race car. One for road (stock) which was too small for even 220rwkw with large average power which just hissed contiuously off throttle and a HKS atmo which had plenty of capacity. It gave just a squeak on in gate changes since those shifts are pretty quick, but on cross gate changes like 2-3 and especially 4-5 it could be heard working and improved the time for boost to kick in after changing a lot. Individually the GTR bov's are not huge (I have a pair for after the rebuild on the racecar) but together simply act like a much larger one. I very much like the way they work in the GTR. They are probably adequate for street use at those levels you were running to prevent damage. Let me know if that makes it clearer.

The volume of the air recirculated will be the key. Unfortunately you never got to run the car on the circuit Ash or you would have discovered the benefits of running both. The reason it didn't flutter is because the was always pressure against the throttle butterfly because it wasn't releasing all the pressure. The flutter is caused by the valve opening and closing as controlled by positive pressure at the butterfly.

Bikes are great for a bit of fun, say Lakeside racetrack on a quiet afternoon but throw in some rain and overnight luggage and it's no contest. GTR every time

Oh so sorry to tread on your feelings there; personal joke between myself and Roy (who knows my background) but feel free to make a martyr of yourself. I considered the discussion finished and the sledging was free to commence judging by previous comments. Anyway BOT, I'm certain the purpose of the discussion was about saving money and time by only working on what was necessary. So far we have personal thoughts without scientific basis on the matter vs Engineering opinion based on science. The choice now remains up to the reader. It's probably easy to overlook the fact that one disc is considered fine but throwing a bone here and recalling Scotts earlier correct comment that street cars generally won't get the same attention as a race car there is some value in taking both in for inspection and measurement to determine wear remaining, especially if you are not confident doing this yourself. Bris you should know better When are you coming over to swill beers? Got anything on Saturday? I'm moving stuff into the new workshop so I can start pulling down an MX-5 head. Some extra muscle would be good and there's all the food and booze you can consume.

Waste of a Javelin missile to use it on a 32 but war makes monsters of us all

So you are quoting yourself. All correct except the turbos mate. Again, good luck on the sale but be honest on the turbos. http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/discu...n1-vs-stock.txt Maybe you can post the turbo part numbers.

Yeah fair enough Scott. There is a lot of uneducated/unqualified opinion on here and while it is fine from a trade perspective to suggest doing a complete axle at once there is no supporting science to it, even if it is the way you were taught and continued to practice. If Adam or anyone alse is intelligent enough to ask can he do just one without asking why not then I'll respect that and give a yes or no answer. When someone wants to refute with a scientifically unjustifiable claim that then it's time to justify my answer. I also am a mechanic with over 20 years experience but I'm also an Engineer so I only give advice I can support professionally. Mind you if I'm wrong I'll wear that too. BTW I've never been a fan of Bendix pads, even the ultimates but I do like RB74's from Racebrakes for a street/track pad. I hear good things about the Ferodo pads but haven't tried them. On road rubber on the track I haven't reached the limit of the RB74s during 5-7 lap sessions but with semi's and more power and decent suspension I feel I'm going to find the limit from advice I've received.

What occurs with brakes is the driving to aid cooling (air quenching) allows them to retain their homogeneous properties throughout the disc. When you are forced to use your barkes hard and then stop the air can quench the exposed regions and the area covered by the pads cools much slower. This can cause the formation of regions of cementite - a tough slow wearing form of steel which can result in a shudder in the pedal as the other areas wear faster. Often close inspection reveals an outline of the brake pad as a fine line of dark pits on the disc. It can wear out if it is not deep and likewise can be machined out if not too deep but often results in a wrecked disc, even after a really hard stop on the road and then waiting at a light for a few minutes. The deep grooves would be caused by some hard particles in the pad that have not been evenly distributed during manufacture so causing concentrated wear. While the disc is off place some emery on a flat surface and take the pad back smooth(ish). Bedding is important but remember a few days of city driving can be enough for bedding in too. I always have a couple of laps on the track day to make sure the brakes are warmed and bedded anyway. If you are at all concerned do both discs at once, but I tend to be able to feel which wheel is a bit funny under brakes so know where to start looking for the problem.

In my professional Mechanical Engineers opinion and with over 20 years motor racing and mechanical experience there is no point machining something that doesn't need it as the only imbalance that "may" occur is a slight differential on heat absorption capacity due to the small amount of material lost. As always you must maintain knowledge of the state of your configuration and repair/replace accordingly. Overhauling a single caliper is an issue of "it depends". If it is several years old without ever having overhaul then yes. If it was done a few races ago and just one is causing problems then no.

There is some detail and simplified language in the latest Race mag. I'll scan and post later.

Russ features in the latest Race mag. You're doing well mate and I'm looking forward to being there to enjoy the spectacle soon.

No problems machining just the one. Hope it sorts out.

Nick, this is not about discussion but false advertisement. Anyone who has been on here a while knows only N1 turbos have steel or inconel turbines as stock fitment. There is no difference between standard and V-spec turbos on the different models. Enjoy your reading KBNR32. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...GTR*+R32*++N1** http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...GTR*+R32*++N1** http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=71939&hl=

I use RDA slotted on my gts25t racecar and prefer them over DBA as the slots go all the way through without the afterthought reverse slot DBA have. Never had a problem with vibration or pulsations using RB74 pads and braided lines with a massive stopper so I expect it would be a rotor with an area of cementite transformation due to a hard braking moment and then not getting off the brakes while stopped. I feel the feedback from RE55S semis more than anything anyway. RDA have a new option with curved slots and dimples (not drilled through) for GTR so may be available for GTSt

You should have no dramas as they won't be byond their elastic limit. What RPM are you planning?

No interest in buying (I already have enough Skylines) but just to clarify for possible buyers who may be misled. V-specs never in any model had steel turbine wheels, but have ceramic turbines, and are therefore just as likely to fail without notice as non V-spec. N1's in 32 and 33 have steel wheels and 34 N1's have Inconel turbines and ball bearing centres. That said, good luck with the sale

Hot 4's doing stories on Skyline 6's. Either they have no stories or are just envious. Still they should stick to their rice. And you have a real car so don't need to read their crap. The info on here is more reliable anyway. Just enjoy your car for a little while until you learn what the right mods to make are, then take it to a reliable workshop.

Having conducted some research and ownig a GTR33 and 2 33 GTSt's I don't think GTR's are any more expensive than GTSt's to own unless you are pushing a fair bit more power, and then the fuel expenses increase. It works the same with any car though, the harder pushed the more prone to failure. Ultimately, if you are too concerned to drive it then now is not the right time for you to own the car. Buy someting reliable and cheap and get rid of the GTR until you are in a better circumstance to own one without getting an ulcer every time you start it. In the end though it is just a car so just drive it. The added benefit is getting to enjoy something special, it doesn't always have to be at the limit.

Slap in a late model toyota 6cyl tubo, give it some "drift" damage and charge 12K for it

There is a fuse, but an easier option is contact the member Dirtgarage for the switch. Enjoy and welcome.

Paid. Thanks for the pics. Looks good. BTW who is the poof modelling the jacket? Is he a foottaballer?