GTRgeoff

I think the way people put GTRs on a pedestal is just idiotic. At the end of the day they are just a car. Not everyone can afford to have several cars, one for fun, one for cruising, the workhorse family truckster etc, etc ..........

In fact, an emerging problem is with the screws holding the backing plate onto the oil pump working loose. It's a must do job to remove those screws and loctite them in when the opportunity presents.

Yours if you want them Simon. PM sent with address.

No, it will be sudden, and painful to the wallet.

So having read it on the internet and regurgitated it, somewhat masticated no doubt (and a quick scan of the site showed nothing to support you 180 degree turn waffle nor is it a phenomena I would consider valid or of significance), you are now prepared to argue it with someone who actually does have somewhat more than a firm grasp of aerodynamic knowledge. Once you can explain a few basics like settling chambers, von karman vortices, the navier stokes equations, turbulent wall growth or the meaning of a reynolds number I'll be prepared to listen, but I'll point out I'm not discussing with the owners of the website, or an expert in cooler design am I? In fact their website is a bit simple so I suggest searching elsewhere. Look, learn but don't advise until you know, especially if SK is posting.

Sounds good. Emmachizzit?? Set of 4 in Bronze or whatever they come in.

15.8 kg each. Didn't check the Recaros.

Yet more unsubstantiated crapola. Essentially, unless you are running a full race car, you will be fine with a GKtech which is the best value available at the moment. I have no temp issues on the racetrack with a Hybrid Monster 800hp cooler.

R33 GTR Driver and Passenger seat from 95 model. Good condition, starting to show a little wear in spots, mostly on the drivers outer leg and back bolster but no holes in the fabric. Should give several more years service before a re-cover is needed. Will need a clean, as I just pulled them out and bolted in the Recaros and they are languishing in my garage. Let's face it, if I bought them I'd clean them regardless of what I'd been told so I won't waste effort. Complete with the seat belt bolts to TF your belt catch across. When I bought the car the drivers seat back pivot broke after about 3 weeks, so I have completely dismantled the drivers seat, repaired the pivot and reinforced it with weld. I have also reinforced all the welds around the lower seat frame, some of which were showing signs of cracking so it's now more structurally sound than new as the manufacturers welds are minimal. Inspection revealed no signs of cracking in the passenger seat. I won't arrange shipping, but will happily wrap with some bubble wrap over the soft extremities and cling film on the rest and provide an address for the courier of your choice to pick up. For local pick-up, if the Recaros are anything to go by they should just fit in the back seat of an R33 folded up. Price- $1100 All offers to be posted in thread. In fairness to other members I will not negotiate offline. They are not sold until I have cash in hand or account. I'm not in a hurry to sell and these can always go in my 25t track car, but I will ultimately be fitting fixed seats. I replaced them as they are not a comfortable seat for my ex-Rugby prop frame.

Who liked the Bourne Identity and Supremacy? Great movies, nothing like the books which were also great. I'll have a look later in the week. Then I'll get around to the book.

You oughta be a hand model Rich.

Mate, the ceramic is in the turbine, or exhaust wheel, not the compressor. They use ceramic for the weight and heat resistant properties. Ceramics don't bend and have a very finite limit in tension so the speed of the rotation causes them to try to stretch, allowing them to "grow" off the shaft so the adhesive has difficulty holding it in place. The blades can also just snap of under the centrifugal tension. Then there is blade separation/balance failure/shaft failure. I'm still not quite sure what you are trying to say. Do you know how many GPa of tensile pressure it takes to make steel and ceramides to increase in size? And what those tensile rupture limits are? And if the blades grow, how does that cause shaft play (which is also growing under centrifugal loadings due to its own mass)?

The centre caps I've seen looked ugly as hell. Maybe flat ones would do the job.......but never seen them.

Killrust.

Off forum sale snipers just suck!!! Anyway they went too quick so I'll have to ask more for mine....

Not bringing the cheaters unless it is raining. I want to Sliiiii......iiiiiiiii.....iiiide. Brisby, you'll take a run and damn well enjoy it. Don't make me kick your sooky Waratahs lovin' ass. I trust there will be a little time for volunteers to take a run.

It would appear that it increases the chance of failure, possibly because of particles getting dislodged that later separate and strike the turbine at a moment of greatest inconvenience.

Always great input Gary but....seriously that's really down to splitting hairs for a Racecar (does BSM really mean Buckets o'Spending Money?? ) I know I can be accused of the same often enough when I need to make a point, and dammit my fault for not quantifying the type of use but the purpose of my exercise is to establish the best VFM for general road users and occasional trackies. I don't recall outlet temps ever getting more than 1 degree above ambient with the 800HP (monster) Hybrid. Also water temps seemed fine but I was on road rubber so couldn't get into it harder. Hey have you seen the new race magazine for racers and race car builders? Worth a look guys, unless you are SK. GKTech seemed on close inspection to be as good and clean in construction, with finned internally bars much like what you see front on in the cooler. The settling chambers have good radiuses and the pressure drop values are good enough for me. I worked with some good fluid chambers and a mach 7 shock tunnel and possibly the only person in the world to put an armoured vehicle in a wind tunnel so I have a keen eye for what shouldn't be there. You realise there is a percentage loss value attached to each bend and length of straight pipe? Of course you do so why not shorten pipe and use water/air? just to get off topic. Weight is usually the answer, as well as plumbing complexity and more electrics but I think there is good scope on a line. Anyway why were you looking at non standard in the Nazi classes? Shame!!!

The trick to a clutchless upchange. As you ease off the throttle pull it out of gear. As the revs drop to the right point just pull it into the next one. Apply accelerator and continue. Downchange. As the revs hit the right point just give a small touch on the accelerator to unload the box and pull it out of gear. Rev to the right range and slip it in the next one down. All in the timing. In racing I use a half double clutch for upchanges where, as I back off the throttle to drop the clutch I pull it out of gear and as the clutch disengages it pulls into the next gear. Can take as little as 0.3sec to change. Racing dog boxes are quicker.

Hi Sharni and welcome. First good step, having a go. The rest is just for the fun of it. In fact this time I'm just going to try to slide as much as possible. Starting Rain Dance for more sliding goodness.

A number of issues we investigated with turbines some time ago in aerospace applications of ceramics. With the radial loadings they "grow" which results in greater surface tension, will occur especially when overboosted from stock. A slight impact can cause catastrophic failure which is common enough on GTR turbos after they have been removed for some reason, as it would make sense that a turbo that has run faultless for years will suddenly throw a turbine and the only other factor we can summarise is a loose particle striking the turbine blade, snapping or damaging it and the rest is easy to imagine. A failed GTR turbine often results in an engine rebuild due to ingestion of the particulates. Some suggest as often as 2/3 need rebuild. No amount of adhesive will protect it as needed. So a summary. If not removing and keeping stock boost then leave the time bomb on to tick slowly. If upping the boost, expect the worst if you can rationalise the risk vs return and accept it. If the need arises to remove the turbo, expect the risk to increase dramatically but if you survive the first week it would seem you dodged the bullet. Sorry Sewid, just the result of experience and research. One of my GTR34 Vspec turbos let go at 5 psi within the first 2 hours of startup after fitting. Cost to rebuild GTR turbos comes in at about 2800 with steel wheels last I checked. GT-SS equivalents from Garret are less than that. Having wasted $800 on the last set I'm not sure I would do it again since I CBF rebuilding these at that cost. So lets get to the "right" ceramic compound. Inconel as used in axial flow turbines (jet engines) and R34 N1 turbos. Can handle the conditions, less likely to self destruct and lightweight. Everything the ceramic stockers need to be but at a cost. Also, you can't just run the boost as high as you want. There is still flow characteristics and excess heat to consider.

Go with the Recaros, and it's your choice on interior trimming. I personally don't like the GTR seats, finding the Recaros a better fit and stiffer construction.

For an intercooler, the variables affecting performance are surface area (internal and external), mass, surface finish and flow rate. All those being equal, they will perform equally well. Thus far I have seen little significant difference between the top brands, the Hybrid and Gregs offering (GKTech) so now it comes to price. Aluminium is still aluminium. If the surface finish is matt then heat TF will occur at a constant rate with all other constants. The flow rate is good for the expected power requirement. The mass will allow good heat dampening. With the fittings supplied and good instructions, for the price the GKTech cannot be surpassed on quality, performance and VFM (value for money). Even the GTR cooler requires substantial stuffing about with piping so at $400 average price is a genuine ripoff in straight comparison. If the name convinces you, well fine, spend your money on HKS etc. I base my opinions on solid science and engineering fundamentals and if your power budget is easily covered by these then there is no technical justification to buy anything else, price of course being the determining factor. Amateur technologists and ricers feel free to argue. I am in the mood. BTW I'll add that Greg is a fairly long term member of the forum with a passion for cars. I recall pics of his CRX and believe he's now in a Skyline. He's a young guy who has seen a business opportunity and taken a risk and to be honest, I've been a bit jealous watching as his business has started to grow as he's taken what I think was a considerable risk for someone so young. He specs and contracts the manufacture of individual items and kits and then sells at good prices. So good luck to him.

Well, not if you are using it in a race car, which is the intended recipient for my bars that weigh 0.73kg and 32's can save over 20kgs with all the crap removed. I only offered bars to road car drivers because they were so expensive at one stage and fixing HICAS can be expensive and is no guarantee it won't go haywire again at some stage. Unfortunately too many think it's just another piece of rice, but I do attempt to weed them out, usually the ones asking for pictures.