GTRgeoff

Some slotted are cast in and then deburred. Gives a different material structure to resist cracking but most are just machined.

Ryan, helping people is the essence of being a Queenslander and big to 3litr3 and Ben and the others who stopped for upholding that sense of helping. The rest can go to Victoria where they belong. I guess it goes without saying that Dan will do the clutch repair. Hope all turns out well with the repairs and remember this everyone when you see a fellow 'liner in the side of the road.

Talk to Howard at Racebrakes Al. So you of course plan to get the rears and master cylinder don't you? The few cars I have driven with this mod (just the fronts) felt crap in the brake pedal. Very spongy and pinchy in the rear, even with ABS on one, using braided lines.

Well I searched through here but not any detail. There is an interesting point on tinted windscreens though. Qld_mods.pdf BTW did I mention Qld is modding utopia compared to the Nazi states.

I do have a lingering memory of needing only one as a recliner and the other (drivers) fixed. I'll try dig it up.

Always the best place to start is those 2, then induction like a decent pod and cold air partition as the stock snorkel is restrictive...BTW the filter is the same for all 'lines, either T or R, then the PFC and boost controller (Jaycar item, an extensive thread on here by Sydneykid) and don't forget to apply some attention to brakes. A service, slotted rotors and good pads to pull up the power.

Width across the butt? I'm a big boy but will pick up and pay cash if they fit me.

Once you start the hunt for power you won't stop with what a stock cooler will support. I have measured the outlet temps at 70 deg from the stock cooler at 14psi with a hiflow stock turbo. When I put on an 800hp Hybrid the temps were never higher than 1 degree above ambient on FMIC exit except when I was cruising below 60kmh on a hot day in traffic. Save an expensive step in the tune and boost/boost a bit more/break piston rings or worse/rebuild engine/install FMIC/tune and boost cycle. Fit the FMIC now with a decent exhaust, then start chasing power and save the expensive detonation adventure. If you can't convince yourself read the thread in my sig.

Clearly contacting, which leaves me in no doubt the disc hat (the part the wheel clamps against) is too thin as many others fit these wheels. Whip the discs off, take them to a brake place that has, say DBA or RDA discs in stock for R33 GTSt and compare the thickness. You may then be up for new rotors but it would seem to be the only safe and legal solution.

Told my brother he oughta go to Syddley. He'd pick up for sure. Next you'll all be watchin' that limp wristed footy stuff they have down here instead of sport. State of Origin Whitewash to Qld my friends. BTW they have this here over the weekend

Jeezus a chick is the first one in?? SAUNSW = WEAKSAUCE!!! What? Are yas waitin' for permission from your husbands?

I paid 30K 12 months ago. Pacepace street engine, clutch, steel wheeled turbos, catch can, Apexi suspension, 18" TE37's and 260rwkw@1bar on a stock computer and airbox. Goes hard enough to put me in the running at DECA and pulls 0-100 in 4.02s and 40m. Repairs cost to date...an intercooler hose split and jake32 sent me some off a 32. Now if he'd only give me a bank account # so I can pay him some beer money. Strangely the thread disappeared just days after I bought it...... The fact remains that they are getting cheaper, and the more mods done means the harder it has been thrashed so the sooner you will pay for repairs. In that light I justify that mods are then worth only a fraction of the new cost unless you are offered an extensive warranty. My opinion, $30K max for a stockish 95; and a 34 engine is nothing special over a 33. Sure it has BB turbos but I fitted a set to my 25t track car and one shattered at 5psi so the time bomb ticks unless they have been reworked or replaced. Essentially, look at what the market is paying. If one has been on the market for a while and not selling, it's too exxy.

Still waiting on the bucket width and further pics.

I have them on one of my GTS25t's and they fit fine. My guess is your disc hat is too thin allowing the wheel to contact the caliper.

Exhaust wheel is ceramic on standard or V-spec, as demonstrated when one disintegrated in my RB25DETT track car. Now have 25psi compression in 1,2,3 and 150 in 4,5,6. Boost was 5psi at time of failure. They can let go at any time without warning but usually just after being refitted. R34 N1's use inconel which we use in the aerospace industry in axial flow turbines.

Fair enough Chris. I'll take it. Wanna drop it off one weekend or post it?

You know on the skidpan that co-drivers are allowed. Even filled all the seats in the XR Wog Chariot with knuckles wearing sombreros.

BTW here is the distributors website with prices.... http://www.idealseat.com.au/products.html

Indeed. Try it, you will be impressed with the comfort. Mine were aftermarket with the rails, but a slight mod to the universals would see you sweet. Someone on here did a tutorial.

Haven't taken the time to find out yet, but I do plan to do some engineering inspections once I'm up there. Anyway I just bought a set of recliner Recaros with rails and they are super comfortable, much nicer than GTR stock seats and better lateral support, while demonstrating much less flex. There's one (recliner) for sale in Brisbane now for a steal of a price.......

Looks as though they leave the lip into the turbine housing there. Wonder why? Cuts into the flow at least 4mm. Tomeis look nice though. Investment cast tubing. Would be a real dilemma to decide.

C'mon WA, you're only 2 hours behind. Do you have no love for Lauren? All the best Niz. Geoff

And on that I'd bet beers he never turns up....... Surely no-one but a dumb schoolkid would attempt to BS this team of BS experts

Steve, will call tomorrow to arrange time.

250+ on stock computer.....just replace the turbos. One of my R34 ones blew at 5 psi.