GTRgeoff

Just to help next time, the location is The Lakes Boulevard, Mill Park Lakes, South Morang. At the Lakes Cafe. "We" Funky? You there with your boyfyiend?

That's something that will be hard to near impossible to discover. Could be a piece of dislodged carbon flaked off and struck a hot turbine blade. Mine isn't the first for RB25 sure, but i had the time to put into doing the job properly with plenty of prep and port matching. Cost a bucket load too and that was doing it myself. Certainly wasn't heat shock as I ran the car for over an hour before driving to check for any leaks, satisfy that fluids were flowing properly and burn in the heat wrapping. I have heard of one GTR that was started on a cold morning and driven fairly hard straight off shattering a turbine, so is an indicator of heat shock susceptibility.

Benno's a real character, and keeps things pretty close to his chest for both commercial reasons and to have a bit of fun with people. So he gives me some line on "How do you like the idle? Bit lumpy hey?". Great torque down low but also a real tough clutch to get used to. I like it now but hard for the wife to drive. At one stage it had Argo rods as well but the first Aust owner that killed the engine about 3 times wrecked them. So the work has all been done at Racepace with Arias pistons and the oil system improved as well as Bennos catch can. For what I paid, it was the steal of the decade.

Just to add to my last as I was a bit busy. The ceramic turbines are a known time bomb. They can run for ages at normal or even close to their known limits without failure, or then let go with no changes. Often, one can let go after they have been removed and replaced for some reason such as a gasket repair. In about 2/3 of cases there will be ingestion of the ceramic dust which can score the bore, hold the valves open and pretty much wreck the whole engine as the dust goes throught the oil pump. I had just converted the RB25 to TT with a set of R34 turbos that had run at stock boost but producing good power. No warning, all was well and no boost controller so running of manifold direct pressure. I was on the first drive, just taking things easy and getting used to the response before getting the PFC tuned. Decided to bring on a little power in 2nd and was watching the boost guage for response. As it made 5psi there was a brief missing noise and a large puff of brown smoke out the exhaust (racing cat was fitted) and suddenly lost heaps of power. Had to really work the throttle when clutching for roundabouts as it wanted to stall. Made the couple of kays home but it didn't have the oomph to back up the driveway so it's parked until I can spare the time and the back is up to fixing it. Comp test showed 150psi in the rear 3 cylinders and 20psi in the front 3. That's the ceramic dust holding the valves open. In my GTR33 I have steel wheeled stock turbos, cam gears, adjustable fuel reg, possibly cams, head cleanup at the last rebuild and exhaust on the stock computer with factory airbox, so it looks stock. It made almost 260rwkw and is enough of a handfull in the wet that I don't believe I need more. Wheelspin through second in the wet is nasty with an open front diff causing torque steer. Good enough for the RSM to show 0-100 in 4.02 seconds on 275-35-18's taking 40m to complete. Who needs PFC. Just visit Benno at RacePace. BTW all was done when I bought it, and made very good sense to buy when I would have been doing a few things anyway.

I have the 34GTt rims on the auto 33 and they barely clear the Sumitomos so I doubt they will go over Brembos. 5052mm^2 vs 5309mm^2 is a big enough difference especially when the master size difference is so large..... enough research. Ask Funky for part numbers.

And my front R34 turbo let go at 5 psi wrecking the front 3 cylinders when they injested the ceramic dust. Turn the boost down before you regret it.

It does when you heel/toe on your downchanges, which I do pretty much all the time as it is smoother. with the flex in the firewall you need to adjust the brake pedal that much higher to overcome the travel before you start to contact the accelerator. This is for the style I use, but if you are double jointed then it's not much problem with it standard (eg Gan San in the BMI videos). Also braided lines and good pads make a huge difference, along with slotted discs.

Bill at Hobby HQ in Reservior Melbourne is good for prices as well. http://www.tamiya-direct.com/welcome.php

A couple of recent ones. Took these photos at 1600 res but still blocky. Full res looks great. 1960 Corevette. Revell crap kit for a comp. All had to do the same model. tried a new clear coat that was all orange peel. Bumpers and headlight and windshield surround was alclad metal paint and the sides and seat surrounds are bare metal foil applique. Leopard AS1 MBT with the Aussie conversion kit. In the old olive drab with mud cam as applied by the tankies. I spent 2 years in the Tank Regiment commanding Armoured Recovery Leopards, the Recovery Troop and at one time a troop of Gun tanks such as this. Tamiya CLK GTR Warsteimer sportswear car. The toughest decals on the planet. The chick on the front has to mould around the headlights. lots of Mr Softer to get the decals on smooth.

I do the occasional car but mostly mil aircaft and armour. I play with bare metal foil and nice paint on them, mostly preferring auto paint like holts duplicolor which I settle and release the propellant then decant the paint and store in an airtight jar. Been a bit slack lately but I'm with a plastic modelling club way out the north side of Melbourne. I also have a custom model spray booth and compressor with Aztec double action airbrush. I'll get up some photos later but some tips on photographing models. You need to go to macro to get clear shots up close. Also turn off the flash and get some nice light behind you. You might also need a small tripod to stay steady while the flash is off but it will get the best shots. Gets rid of the out of focus look. Resizing also doesn't help as it makes them look not quite right. When installing decals, try to put them on gloss coat, even if you lightly brush it on so you get the best adhesion, then do your final coat over the top. We do a lot of matt finishes on weathered aircraft and armour so the gloss goes on, then decals, then matt and then the wash to get a dusted look before doing snow/sand/mud. Great for the "I've just finished Paris-Dakar" look. Nice to see some other modellers on here. People think modellers are a bit strange but there are some real artists out there. Some pics from a previous model expo I went to. Resized but I didn't think you'd like 6megapixel 2.7meg downloads.

Not bad, but you are right, the captured nut should be on the other side of the plate. Not much weld holding it.

Doughboy, Roy tells me you have GTR intercooler alloy piping kits. Can you let me know price and what the kit includes. Cheers mate.

Bugger it. $900. Offers still considered. Might also list on eBay to move them.

you suck monkey. no brake bleeder for you.

Go search for us research biatch How you doin mate?

No it's OK, I'm a radar and laser expert (in the Defence/Weapons system/Guided missile field) and it's not a physics thing but a Euclidian geometry thing called the Pythagoras theorem. I'm actually hoping to catch you for a beer some time Graeme and see this car that took so long to get delivered. No I'm not anti your job and have a few mates on the force. But I am anti speed cameras and pro more cops on the job keeping us safe by exercising judgement, as well as advocating better driver training. BTW I'm fine free for almost 12 years. I do not represent people in court. Maybe others would be interested in a demo, especially a detailed discussion on sidelobing and other interference that reduces the accuracy and validity of the readings, like the 2GHz frequency of water spray in the rain that is also a sampling frequency of the Silver Eagle vehicle mounted system Also maybe the failure by any Aussie Police service/force/radar operator to meet scientifically approved testing and manufacturers servicing and calibration criteria. Anyway taiphan, I suggest you first of all ask for the picture, which you have to pay for and assure yourself that it is in fact your car and no others are in the image. Also look for any metal objects that may reflect radiation causing an incorrect reading which means the camera was not set up in accordance with the operations manual. If you have no reasonable defences then just suck it up. You could also elect to take it to court and right up to entering the court room you can elect to pay the tax (oops I mean the fine) and any administrative fee and it will have cost the state more than your fine and admin fee. Might make the government start thinking differently if this were done more often to clog the courts and destroy any income benefit. Ash, again you post on technical matters completely unarmed. Tell me in kmh how thick your speedo needle is. Pretty easy for it to be more than 3kmh off line especially if you sit funny (called parralax error)which you'd have to with that head. If you weren't such a good bloke I'd have the Wog smack you one. He can't miss

I expect so although i must admit the GTR has more pedal travel than the GTST, although that has had a lot more attention to the brakes as it's my track car (when it goes). Still, it remains that even if they were the same, the volume difference means not doing both axles leaves the car prone to rear lockup which is scary.

Won't fit. I tried aftermarket wheels for an R32 GTR on Purple and they just touched so needed a few mm of spacer to clear, just to run the race rubber at DECA. BTW the Brembos are the calipers and the discs come from a supplier in Japan (not Brembo) direct to Nissan who also provided the discs for the R34 Z tune. If you have no ABS just be cautious of pinching the rears and locking them now the bias will be a little toward the rear. Of course if you did front and rear then you should be fine except with a particularly long pedal for the same braking force. The reason is a larger volume in the Brembo's pistons which means you have to push the brake pedal further for the same braking force so the rears can work as intended so will lock before the fronts. The consequences can be pretty severe loss of control.

Also interested to know if Croydon or SAS have the connector looms. Might make selling it easier.

Give Deren a shout mate http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&f=144&t=111125

Call Racebrakes Marcus.

Madness, I'm not sure how much power you want, but Ben at Racepace tuned my GTR before I bought it on the stock computer for almost 260rwkw. Consider that I don't race it as I have a GTS25t for racing so I have the luxury of completely factory idle, an almost completely stock appearance in the engine bay except for the rising rate reg (would have to be pretty switched to notice) and enough go to spin it up through second in the wet which can be pretty hairy without a LSD front diff as torque steer can kick in. It pulls 0-100 in 4.02s over 40m and on 0.8 bar boost (instead of the normal 1 bar due to a split hose) was good enough for a comfortable 3rd outright in the recent DECA event. With the turbos you have a computer change is not necessary. Mine are steel wheel stockies. One the 2530's yours would do as well but pull harder lower in the range. I'd spend my money on some nice suspension from Sydneykid and get Benno to get the most out of a nice stock looking setup. To be fair there are also cam gears, possibly cams but he won't tell me (the pr*ck ) head work and a good exhaust but they can be found at a decent price. ctjet, Rob is a mate of mine so I'd be interested to know what you base your comment on. Sure some cars have been there a while and I never discuss specifics, but a lot of cars come in and out quickly as well. As for a PFC tune, well that doesn't take long and he pulled 220rwkw out of my GTSt on PFc with RR reg, modded stock turbo and stock injectors at 80% duty. He is well priced and has some good performances in cars on the strip to back him up.

I'd be interested to know who tunes them as I have a PRO V-2 for R32/33 GTR

No-one likes you Pete...especially now!!! Pics or BAN!!!!! Enjoy mate.

I'd suggest you stop mucking about with Old Skool crap and go straight to live extrude honing. No need to run the engine but you simply attach the pressure feed of the hone to where the throttle body fits up. It ports, polishes and match ports in one go and every 30 seconds you just turn it over a bit with the starter motor. Cleanup is just pump through kero, take the plugs out and crank her over for a while then leave to dry while you do an oil change. No need to strip the engine. There have been reports of 30% improvements in flow rates. Sorry to kill your GB on the way cool HKS sand Ferni but that's a really cheap buy. Hope that helps.