GTRgeoff

Personally it's offensive to refer to R33 and R34 as Godzilla, as they are superior vehicles that have also handed ass in Japanese and European racing......sounds like someone has inferiority complexes.........now where's that trolling smiley Each sets benchmarks from the previous on the racetrack and shares the same running gear, they just improve as they go because much though we might not like it, they aren't perfect yet. Still for a cool daily driver there's nothing like a (any model) GTR.

No, the R34 N1's use inconel which is far superior to steel, but I understand there is no difference between Standard, V-spec and M-spec but happy to be shown different.

Actually I've just done some checking and these are R32 or R33 with the .42 AR on the compressor housing and as such are plain metal bearing with ceramic turbine, not ball bearing. R34 never had that housing on the compressor. Sorry to let you know. The others are R34 though with BB but are still ceramic of which one of mine let go at 5psi so are still a bit of a time bomb, and is why I'm after something new. Sorry but no longer interested in either pair. Was hoping the M spec were a bit different. With all those seats I suggest you discuss business dealings with Nick (Blitz) or Christian as it sounds more like business than cleaning the lounge room out.

OK guys there seems a bit of interest so I'll start discussions with the machinist and see if I can get another run done. I'll post up details on timings expected. Geoff

Thats a fatigue failure as you can see from the close curved lines across the broken face and the rough area to the other side of the break. Starts somewhere about where I've marked as best as I can discern from the photos. Just couldn't handle no more Cap'n

www.nismo.com.au has them if you want a quick look at a current product. I'm thinking a cute new front lip in CF would be nice too......

All sorted, too busy looking at the pics and not at the words so got myself sucked into chasing the G sensor cable from the plug, not the ATESSA computer cable. Now for some wet weather but on setting 3 the torque guage jumps slightly as soon as I start to drive off.

And how did you know I was coming along???? I think the list needs an update.

Mmmm custom carbon...I can see us becoming good friends already Need some underbody stuff.......like a rear diffuser for the track 25t and the GTR BTW GTR lovers, my mate Pete (Bass Junky) is doing some pretty nice ally air guides at a good price if you wanna get in on it http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=95289&st=0

Bet he doesn't sleep and hears every little noise

Very nice. Never thought the whites would work with Purple after seeing Leewahs but it's good. Love the 18" TE37's for getting into the Bremmies to keep then clean. Originally thought of ditching mine because of the size of the rubber but worth keeping. Mine are bronze. Get the GTR cruises started, I'll be back in Qld in a few more months. Added mine btw but being 95 doesn't have the nice headlights.

Bring on the next one. I might actually go buy a copy too since they were good enough to print it.

Mark, definitely the 5 pin plug/wires running into the G sensor unit as shown on the instructions. All wires are solid colour. The earth is unshielded and wraps around the wiring to earth on the G sensor chassis.

Fiona can you provide detail on the difference between the turbos? I notice that one pair have 0.53 AR which is exactly what is on the R34 turbo's in my race car (I blew the front one at 5psi). The .42 AR is I think pre R34. I'm legitimately looking for new turbos for my race car so if you could please clarify I may be interested in purchase.

Finally the morons on PRSC are waking up, but not saying they were wrong ......yet.

A small problem in the GTR33, the colours on the wires don't match the instructions. So what should I substitute. I have black, brown(earth) red, yellow and blue.

Sounds like Qld are following the herd on modifications, which is a pity as it is still the Mecca in Aus for a car enthusiast, but I would suggest that the any non standard item law works against police who have a number of such items throughout the car. I like the info put forward by 26GTS though, thanks mate. Also you may find attempting to take action against a copper may be legislated under some ambiguity that prevents any such action on the grouds of harrasment/incompetence and certainly exists in SA, and is reported to exist in VIC. It's time for letters to everyone folks, including industry reps with a stake in the aftermarket industry.

Can you post up a scan of the instructions?

Can't say it's the reason I post mate, but jealousy's a bitch and so are you (so Snowy keeps saying). Better watch I don't get my eyes scratched out Seriously Budge, 227kW. I think my Laser Lynx makes about that but it ain't all about power. Look forward to seeing it Saturday anyways, just wish I was allowed to get on with fixing the barge so we could play. You'll note though that my question still hasn't been answered. Is 3" mandatory (no that is not another shot at Budge).

Snowie, no response from CAMS on the license renewal so I'll do it direct with you next time I catch up, if not on the day.

Pete, I'll be at Calder Sat (maybe a bit soon) and at the next club meeting, so either will do

Fixed mate, and thanks for the heads up. An extra bit of crap got into my sig instructions. Hope that item I sent is satisfactory.

Hi GMR33, sorry but I havn't been looking much, and tend to not try to "plug" my stuff by intruding on discussion. If people want them they soon find me. In this case though I can offer some advice on HICAS, as I have 3 Skyline R33's to compare. R33GTS25tt (yes TT) without HICAS (my poor broken track car), R33GTS25t auto with HICAS and R33GTR with HICAS (soon to be without). The HICAS is designed to induce understeer over 80kmh. Understeer is considered the safest response for numpty drivers. The problem though when racing/driving at or near the limit is that as you enter the corner on your line, the HICAS then turns the rear toward the corner causing understeer so you turn in more to hit your mark. But because HICAS then runs out of turn angle the rear then starts to take over and you will slide the rear a bit, especially if you set the car up a bit harder on the rear bar, or you compression slide like I do in the auto and GTR. So now your are winding off lock, and maybe oversteer a bit so HICAS turns out of the corner trying to turn you around. You can then end up in the tank slapper (or sankey, like a porka 911) and usually a wall is right where you don't want to be. It's fine for normal driving, but can catch you out as soon as you have a play without warning. So I don't recommend disabling it for everyone, in fact the auto is keeping it as it has to go (5 cars is apparently too many the wife says ) but I do skidpan stuff in the GTR and drive it daily through some fun places so it has to go. Bad news is I have only a few R33/34 fabrication kits left and they are more or less spoken for by some mates, but there are plenty of R32/180/Silvia kits left. I have no plans just yet to get more parts machining done until the R32 ones are almost gone as I'm redesigning the threaded inserts for easier fabrication. I'll see how demand goes though for 33/34 and may bring them back sooner. All other info is below. Cheers Geoff

You've put an RB in it right???

So what's the adjudication on this now. I recall my 4 point 2" is ADR approved at 51mm and button QR and tags, but do I need to now go to a 3"? (when the track barge is going again) Also I have the FIA mounting plates on the rear shelf for my harness, but they are a bitch to install neatly due to the shock well in the rear of R33's and the location of the speaker hole. Also have the plates under the floor for the lap belt mounting. For the GTR though I just use the rear seat belt mounts and front belt mounts/seat frame as it only does Deca stuff so is more for stability than impact safety.