GTRgeoff

Try the Soarer Central forum mate. http://soarercentral.com Or links off planet soarer http://www.planetsoarer.com/

15 seconds is a bit much Paul, they are a little quicker than that. We're talking a system that needs responses in the milliseconds but in truth the standard sensors (see cheap) aren't that good so the computers rely on open loop tables for open throttle or under load and use closed loop when at idle or close to, when there is little load. They have a heater unit in them as well to help get to operating temp. How long it takes is not something I've troubled myself to discover. Again, go the steak dinner

Just online paying bills mate. Lucky to catch me.

I can volunteer the GTR, since I don't have work to attend as such.

R108's mate, look like the 17's on my Soarer. The V8 is plenty good though in these and I've done 8 hours on a tank through NSW on the Newell Hwy, but using the standard wheel/tyre size. 10km/l average at 107kmh on the cruise control that is now modded for unlimited up to 180kmh. It drops in economy a bit on wider ones (235F/255R) to around 8km/l on the EMV screen and a bit over 6km/l around town pushing it. Tossup which I prefer around town, R33 auto or Soarer V8. Both use about the same fuel but it's still heaps less than the GTR (only cos I like to punt it a bit). Celsior was the only choice for a swap though, why would you chase a Soarer? We must drag sometime

Pete, sorry but we're all out for the whole weekend. Hope you all have fun and seeyas at the barbie.

I remember seeing that quite often. If there is a meet Sunday I'll be there, but I think I'll be at the Barbie Saturday too.

Who has that? Even Denham detuned his but it's the corners that will be an issue if you can actually go that fast, not that drifters do anyway......... An oil cooler will be heaps for a 25 unless you are on slicks.

Pete, still waiting on a response from friends. Will get back today.

As you know I like my Soarer, even with 3 different R33's in the garage. Plenty of resources available for cheap fixes to the the occasional problem as well Denham

Waste of effort if you aren't actually goin fast......eg running slicks to their full capacity. RB's, unless modified trap a lot of oil up top so an extra litre is the go. Don't waste your money Matt

So lets stick to RUNNING costs and not mods. The 2 are miles apart. eg my last service, oil $50, filter $20 but will last 4 oil changes, labour nothing. WTF, the same as my 2 GTS25t's and V8 Soarer. Tyres are due soon, $140 each with 90% rubber for Dunlop 9000SP 275 35 18 from Europe, so $20 more each than the GTS25t track car. Fuel is costing about $20 a week more but hell, I'm enjoying it right now and driving off to a few dive sites.

Best to use a pressure rated line. A decent hydraulic hose shop will set you up with the right type with fittings.

For a start on Qld, Bruce Josephs runs a site called www.roadsense.com.au which may then lead to other resources from the site if your brother is so interested. Bruce also sells a book on his site. This would be an easy defence with some basic accel calculations and statements but he does need a decent lawyer familiar in road offenses. A good lawyer will ask for costs but I doubt the cop will even let it get there with weight of evidence against him. For the record it takes my GTR33 40m and 4.02s with 260rwkw on good bitumen to get to 100kmh so while the AMG is good it won't do that. If you need engineering assistance with the accel time/distance calcs I'm happy to do so and am familiar with Mt Cootha being an ex-Brissy boy and soon to return.

Cos being a proper sized Aussie male (Who ever heard of a skinny assed little Kiwi???) with a good Rugby forwards frame an R32 just don't fit, and I have good memories of a particular 80's 'stang and its blonde owner from Texas (USA).........

OK New year Price drop $1100 but still considering all offers.

Running the standard diff (well my second one now) I needed the full traction setup to prevent the bugger from open wheeling to the left after 3 laps at somewhere like Sandown. Sure I should get a decent one way but with 5 cars and a dive hobby who can jsutify one of them.......

And if you are not lowering aggressively, I would suggest it is the best course to take if you want to limit your budget.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/Project/skylineR33gts-t.htm http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/fact_shee...line_R33GTS.PDF Will get you started. Oh and that was neg as the 33 uses a short upper arm so as the car goes lower, the top of the tyre comes in. I use the whiteline pineapples (subframe bush kit) @ $120 a set on both the GTSt track car and the GTR33. I have them set in max traction. The squat is not extreme but is sufficient to add that extra hookup that is needed. Both are mild cars with very fat 220rwkw in the GTSt, so a large average power and 260rwkw on the GTR, which still needs that bit extra. Fitting is pretty easy if you can swing a spanner but constant changing would be a pain just to chase setup. Set to whitelines figures and leave. For more detail talk to SK as he can recommend for specific outcomes you desire.

If it is only the CAS alignment guide pin then don't bother replacing the cam, even though it is an easy job. Just set it right once and leave on. And use the washers.

A quick search for some setup detail by Sydnekid will show 1. All Skylines have too little castor 2. All Skylines, when lowered to a useful competition height (not extreme) will have too much camber So ultimately you will need both but caster is the most important first step for the 25t. A datalogger and the geometry model would be nice. Maybe one day.....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=95434&hl=

The extra load from the bolt heads grinding on the back of the CAS wouldn't help either but that s what happens when you don't us e the cover and neglect spacers.

Just use the whiteline bushes in the standard rods.

Will confirm later.