GTRgeoff

People use both, as posted above, but it depends on your power requirements. The gaskets ability to hold pressure is the combination of its own structural strength at its weakest point, the clamping pressure of the head and head bolts, the evenness of the clamping pressure and any ancilliary aids to retention such as O rings or W rings. I've used an RB30 gasket modified to fit the RB25 at a time when RB25 parts were scarce and I had to move the car from Canberra to Melbourne and eventually it just pushed the gasket sideways into the water gallery. Blowing the head gasket could be from displacement, warping of the head, corrosion/poor preparation or a combination of those. The rings help prevent displacement. Edit: as for is it better than the super grommet gasket, that is using stock gasket and O ring, I don't know. You would have to be producing some massive power for it to have to need better, and so cost would be little inconvenience and you would use the best of everything.

This is not something for backyard mechanics, but a specialised engine machine shop will have no problems sourcing and fitting.

Duncan. Ready to order mate so if I can get details for direct deposit I'll tf the funds. Cheers Geoff

I should get off my ass and buy a Tomei kit to reproduce the module BTW I will not be producing bars from Tuesday 15 Nov until after Thurs 16 Dec as I will be out of country. I'm pretty sure the Vic Copper staying at my place can't weld either so he won't help Also, once I finish the current stock of about 4 R33/34 and 10 R32/180/Silvia bars I won't do any more until next year sometime.

We'd naturally love to see some pics when they are available.

What? A sport tyre and they only come in 17x255. What about when you need 18x275

An O ringed block will have a groove machined around each bore and a steel ring pressed into the groove. This will apply significantly more pressure to the gasket to prevent it blowing out under higher internal combustion pressures. It is often accompanied by a matching groove in the head to further trap the gasket. Block O ring (if yoou are getting machining done) costs less than a metal gasket including the OEM gasket.

Joel, if your car is a daily driver than you will thank yourself for sticking with the RB25. I have one of each of the R33 turbo collection and find the 25's easier to drive around town generally, especially the auto although I drive the GTR because I recently had back surgery so the seat holds me in place better and the wider track and better suspension kit reduces body roll. Other than the driveability, there are few impediments to the installation of a 26. The cost of the engines though is a bit high. I noticed you didn't mention a larger intercooler which is pretty well mandatory for safer power production. Forget the AWD installation. It is just prohibitive if you are going to pay someone else to do it. I had a discussion recently at a workshop about a guy who put the awd out of a GTR32 in a VL and the were literally hundreds of custom parts. If there were even a fraction of the parts needed to fit to the RWD variant (no I haven't counted but I have considered the difficulties) it would still be an expensive project. Make a few searches and look for the discussions that are available on the subject. There is nothing wrong with what you are attempting, but if what you want is a GTR you would be more satisfied with the real thing.

Take him JD. Keeps him talking

Item was sent yesterday and received today. Thanks Peter.

Phil I'd love to come see you race, and give Gary a few pointers (well maybe not) but stuck in Vic then in Thailand for a month. Good luck anyway. Hey Drunken, you organised a place to stay? Or would you like to house sit? Minimal strings attached and you may have to share with a Vic copper for a bit

Yeah Duncan, go do some flagging or such

What if someone were to suggest this guy sets up/manages several class winning cars Harry? Still a disbeliever? I'm still a couple of days away from finishing the model. Still can't sit for long after the back surgery.

Have you put it here as well http://soarercentral.com/ where the ALSC migrated to? Good luck.

Nova As if. Hughesy is about as funny as haemmoroids

Sound like a candidate for the Whiteline Bilstein kit Harry I find it is real quick on the street, especially with the subframe alignment bushes and adjustable swaybars

Sad to see her go James, but I can always offer a ride if you feel nostalgia for Purple and bronze TE37's (although you may find things happening a leeetle quicker ). Whiteline kit with Bilsteins is so sweet. It's taken a long time and I hope the joy in the pocket removes some of the pain in the heart. Cheers

I've done a few. There are a few extra things that can be done to improve the basic engine. GTR rods are recommended. Get them sized (if necessary) and crack tested by the machine shop. Should be under $300 for a set. Get the crank checked for straight by the shop, and get them to supply the bearings. Plastiguaging can be easily mucked up but they do it all the time. If you intend running high rpm/power or at the track then get the front oil feed blocked to reduce oil to the head. Oil can build up in the head and assist with starving the pickup -> bearings can go. Also think about a sump baffle if you intend to track it as well. O ring the block as well so the stock gasket can take a significant power increase. Works out less than metal head gaskets. Get a full balance. Good luck

Sounds like a fair deal. Blind tests are always fun. I have my theory why a side imbalance is not noticeable. The swaybar links 2 spring/damper combinations, so when cornering as one side is compressed it is also compressing the other. The swaybar in the example above is a 22mm and at that deflection is exerting a greater load in kg than the spring on the opposite side is (as it will on all deflections). This will attempt to force the opposite spring to compress but that compression is limited by the cars body mass. Therefore body roll is controlled equally on each side. It can be difficult to visualise but the system has to be considered as a whole, and not just a single component working in isolation. To that end I am attempting to get my FEA program working again to demonstrate visually the dynamic relationships. As a specific response to a previous question; the adjustment holes are not just a wank, but a realistic means of adjusting roll resistance and front/rear traction balance, but offsetting the adjustment holes causing an imbalance is only of consequence in isolation on a test bench. As a system it works. I may prove myself wrong, but that's the cost of learning. BTW Harry, is (was) yours the 1200 with the big engine or the 1200cc donk?

Well that is just never going to happen. While it may seem boring, I recommend one of the larger shops where you will see a wider range of work, including the oil changes.

Does Benno work on the rex too Rod?

Errrr, no, you just said that, I said it would have to be an extremely sensitive chassis for the side to side differences to be obvious. Thanks for the info. Planning on SII RX7, preferably the SelectMaz one Issy has that is apparently unbeaten over any series it ran but he wants me to build one with his input. He says he will campaign again next year in Vic. I was actually referring to the class entry costs, but thanks for the other info too. Matt, sorry to have come on harsh, but mate I wouldn't comment on what you know about IT security against someone else. It was an unnecessary comment clearly intended to just "bump". Add input that is beneficial to the discussion or not at all.

Just to try help clarify some more for the watchers (and Matt, you barely understand brake bleeding and balance let alone handling setup so it's a bit rich you magnanimously passing judgement on who knows what), the anti roll bar operates on a principle of torque arms, which are attached to springs and dampers with a mass attached. As the car rolls, one side of the bar lowers, and the other is raised. Because of the contiguous nature of the bar, the same torque is seen at both sides of the bar. A sway bar should not be so great in spring rate that it affects the primary spring and damping rate (although I run a massive 30mm rear on my laser lynx for my own fun), as this can cause some concerns on an extremely responsive chassis such as Harry's lightweight 1200 Improved Production car. Hence it is entirely acceptable to operate slightly different torque arm lengths, and is in fact a benefit for adjusting setups on certain track configurations. Some of the literature I have enjoyed on oval track setup has opened my eyes when I always sought balance. With a distant history in open wheelers and sports sedans I can see Harry's pov on their configurations, as they are sensitive chassis' also, but for normal sedans that see occasional track there is no issue to run an offset hole. Open wheelers are much more compact as well so configuring for dual blade roll bars is a snack (and usually the budgets are pretty high as well). Also a spring may not be the exact rate specified, so if the car performs a little different side to side you can then shorten or extend that side to make up the spring rate. Ultimately we'd all prefer blades for adjustment on the run but costs are a killer. ff topic, I'm heading to Brisbane next year and looking at IPRA but their website is a bit weak on detail. Do you have any leads Harry? Comp numbers, cars running and costs?

Just noticed you're in Sydney, so how's $140 delivered for the wheel?

It would be too complex to fit the rotator on each end and achieve accurate control over the bar rate. Was only one end last time I was under the Ozemail cars. The bar has an overall resistance to flexure. Large differences would cause some issues on an extremely nervous car.