GTRgeoff

All the best Scott. I have some views on this myself to help curb the street misbehaviour. More later.

I'll take the R33 GTR blinkers if that includes dellivery to Melbourne.

Jay, I'll offer $130 for the steering wheel, and pick it up.

Ever get the feeling the town fool has walked into the bar lookin for a gunfight, and only bought his capgun? Sorry Harry, but you're wrong. SK, explain again why 1/3 isn't used as well. On the Indy cars I noticed they use a blade anti roll bar and it rotates to change the second moment of area -> the flexural rigidity changes. I've just set mine to fully soft f/r on the GTR to ovecome some oversteer on the joyful roundabouts around here.

Insulate, definitely. At least sisalation. You know my thoughts on the ultimate and I'm still planning and pricing for brisbane.

Assuming some similarities with the R33/GTR pump, it is common enough for the screws to come loose in the back, resulting in some pressure loss. Reassemble using loctite on the screws. If/when you remove it make sure you dismantle the pump and inspect tolerances. Once apart you will learn why you can't increase pressure other than by increasing the relief spring tension. It should be ok following that but GTR32 pumps are notorious for failing due to short drive flats, a concern possibly shared with R32 GTSt but I have never bothered to check that specifically.

Nice GT40. I will have one in the collection one day. The Bushrangers though are pretty interesting. Basically an overpriced battlefield taxi. I worked on the project in its early stages and wasn't impressed. 350hp Cat to ZF auto trans, push button gear selection, central tyre inflation for different terrain profiles, safely take 9.5kg of HE underneath with good survivability. No big gun so it's just a truck.

I essentially agree with all the above comments, and here is my experience. I've been swinging spanners all my life, since I was a kid with my old man on the trucks. I did some other things in the Army before going full time as a mechanic then was offered a Mechanical Engineering degree, but all that time I kept always doing my own work and some for friends. It's something I find I enjoy. I get satisfaction from turning up at the track with my own work. Built, not bought attitude. I keep going back to it as a kind of therapy. Since my executive type role in ADF policy and technical integrity that I do now requires I be presentable I do almost all my work with gloves (try Mechanix). Clean hands without the damage of spanner rash. You can learn to do it without costing extra time on the job. I also am sick of offices, so I'm quitting professional life. I have a few sideline deals I'm working on to maintain my skills in Engineering/consulting/project management and make some easy cash but I'll be renovating homes for a couple of years before establishing a pretty exclusive auto modification and engineering facility in Brisbane. Not full time, but as work is available at the very expensive end of the business. This is something I can now afford to do. Make my passion and (now) hobby turn a buck without pressure. So, what are your alternatives? Take an apprenticeship? Good if you can get someone to take you at your age. I've just been helping a guy try to find one and having seen his work and ethic offered references. It will be tough. Join the ADF as an adult trainee? We no longer do apprenticeships but a full time course at Army School of TAFE at Wodonga. OK I'm pissed with Army for a number of things, but I've been here since 17 years old and it builds up. Use it for the few years it takes to get qualified and earn some nice bucks while seeing the country, or even the world. In the Royal Australian Electrical and Mechanical Engineers (RAEME or Spanner Gods to the non-technicals) we are treated a bit better. I should know as one of those early jobs was as an Infantry specialist in a couple of different fields. Some even stay on and take a few side tracks like Special Air Service or Commandos before going back on the spanners. There is basic training first then TAFE then OJT while you are managed by some real pros (what we call Artificers or "the ACE" for short) to fill your skills book. We train to B grade and the rest is up to you. Specialist courses for Tanks etc came as required, as well as drivers courses and any promtion courses. You still of course need to do some Army stuff along the way. I'd suggest join the reserves for a couple of months for a bit of a look if this interests you at all, but there is a difference between reg and reserves. Then there is the after. What the guys have said above. You might not name your price, but you can certainly compete for the top jobs. And what is to stop you changing to a new vocation later?? Good luck.

He deserves to be dragged from his car and executed gangland style in the gutter.

Don't blow wind up our clackers with your Sprinter mate. It's a myth Well done Scott, but isn't it time for a skyline??

As I have always maintained. Victoria Sux!!! That's gotta be more than just running a bit flat for a while. Is there suspension damage as well. Just the extensive wear on the old tyre makes me suspicious. As well, any pothole big enough to crack a rim like that could have caused other damage.

Isn't the 32 a GTS-4??? I'd guess it would be possible with new suspension arms to make clearance and new shafts to allow for the extra drive angle, but maybe massive wheels/tyres and guard work would be cheaper and a more solid solution. All the same you would get as far as Indian head and have to come back.

Now that just sucks - doubly so. You can't fight them on fuel quality. I once went through 20L in 25km. Car was billowing black smoke the whole time. It was clearly poor fuel in the stock auto GTS25t and it compensated by going mega rich and using as much as it needed to protect the engine. The bolts are definitely a no-no to re-use. Rebuilding my engine last time I was torqueing them up and one kept turning a bit too far, then bang. It was nowhere near first torque and had failed. I measured the rest and found some were a fair bit longer than the others so got new ones from Nissan. So is the builder springing for the new work or was it your decision to use the old bolts?

Trained ear my ass. I would destroy them with some pre-assessed sounds and a sound meter. I bet they couldn't explain what the difference was between 90 and 93dB mathematically let alone by ear, especially in an outdoor changing environment where sound can superimpose and reflect.

Yes but if the intake temp is 20-60deg higher the intercooler then has to drag that heat energy out of the intake charge. Also, as air is compressed it heats, so there is already that extra temperature to resist the energy increase of compression (marginal but an impact). All elements attempt to achieve their lowest energy state which fundamentally resists an increase of energy. So the turbo won't make the same boost at a much higher intake temp. You then have to compensate for that somehow. The turbo is also running at a higher temp as it absorbs some of the heat energy of compression. When most people are running to the margins of at least one component of their engine system, that extra heat could be the deciding factor in an engine failure. Also items that are susceptible to heat can do without an increase in the heat cycle max temps as it brings them closer to fatigue failure.

A very attractive young lady friend went to the sphincter of the universe for ANZAC day a few years back. Despite her charms she is a bit loud and opinionated. Long story short, when the guys tried to ditch her they were only offered 2 camels (or was that donkeys). Gets her wound up every time

Porkas????.....PFFFffft!! 944 isn't a real car. I think the GTSt was quicker at the island I've been pestering Issy at Selectmaz to let me buy his S2 RX7 that was never beaten in Improved Production class. The prick has decided to campaign it next year so I mught just have to build one with his help.

Just magic Snowie. Try not to break her One of a kind so parts will be tough to find. Hey Emre. I suggest you start a little higher than 2 camels mate (long story) Hope the family is all well. Now to get Nelly's shoulders fixed and start on a couple of our own.

This is looking good. I've been thiinking about getting back into class racing and a revived attraction to the kind of racing that isn't marketted to death.

Yeah it does look greyscale. Must be time to wash Just rip them off, use paint stripper to clean off the old paint then wax and grease remover to prep the surface. Use the ground coat, thin layers until a smooth finish, then apply the colour. 2 light coats (dry looking) to get the smooth colour base down 10 min apart then a final semi wet coat (so it looks glossy) and allow to dry. I suck at paint and even managed to make it look ok so it should be a breeze for everyone else.

Purple or red!!!

Finally in the engine bay, and looking good. Just to decide now if I want to put a different decal on the spark plug cover.

What a wank price. GTR33's selling now range in age from 95 to 98(being the youngest I've ever seen here) and while the later models have some nice extras, they are mechanically the same. The V-spec does have the active rear diff and a faster ATESSA processor speed but that is exactly $50K more than I paid for a 95 car with a Racepace built engine 2 years old, 260rwkw on the stock computer with steel turbines, Apexi height and damping adjustable suspension, brand new DBA slotted brake discs and new pads, well maintained and 18x9.5" Volk TE37's. All in Midnight Purple. Hasn't cost me a cent that I had to spend so far but I have replaced the suspension with Sydneykids much nicer Bilstein kit from Whiteline as I'm recovering from back surgery. It's a buyers market for GTR's right now so take a look around. Set a firm but fair price and make an offer. If it were well under $20K I'd say take the risk on bringing one in but for the approx $30K plus for a GTR33 you should be sensible and buy local. If the car is interstate then take a quick flight if you think you will buy it. Sellers will start to feel the pinch after a couple of months of not selling; and cold hard cash is a huge incentive to not stand on their price principles.

Likewise my 3 imports that were done in NSW and ACT were fine to bring here to Vic with just direct transfer of rego. Ever want to really put a govt department representative on the back foot? Ask for a formal correspondence citing the exact requirements and the references that back it up. Ask the references be enclosed as well. Often the BS will then go away. Sometimes they just do stuff on a partial understanding or hearesay and when they actually have to substantiate it or read the references they understand and stop the crap. States don't manage importing and compliance, the Commonwealth does. States don't validate the qualifications of Engineers, IEAust does and the Commonwealth recognises that. States only authorise VASS engineers (or equivalent in other states) to work within their framework. Hence if an engineer in one state has completed the engineering inspection IAW the federal requirement that DOTRS have mandated the states then have no authority to question that other than through DOTRS. If DOTRS have a recall issued it will be through the states licensing and rego authority and they should say as such. Not that Vic has an issue with the compliance but DOTRS requires it be re-inspected, not just fully recomplied.

There was a problem on the system Thurs night but after receiving a message yesterday mine fixed itself.