GTRgeoff

Call Howard at Racebrakes Melbourne. I buy from there regularly and just give CC details and shipping address and next day I have product. Don't know he'd waste time on cockroaches though.

Just to add, Paul, that applies only to the water pump and not to the oil pumps. Shaun you will have to separate the gearbox as well to attack the rear sump bolts from memory, or maybe a 1/4 drive socket might squeeze in.

Snowie, thought of a good video crew to get this on film? Maybe your mates at serious performance. Set up sales of the vids with a cut to the clubs.

Not true Ash. CF needs a layer of kevlar through it to create a crumple effect and prevent the large elements coming apart in slabs, thereby becoming a greater threat in pedestrian accidents. They also need certification to state compliance with ADR's and indented stamping to that effect. At this time I am not aware of any manufacturers complying.

With the inlet gear it is an oil pressure activated VCT unit and can't be just replaced unless a new front end is welded on, so the whole cam must come out for machining. You also lose the VCT. Bass Junky has developed some VCT adjuster plates and has been looking for people to trial them. They work the same as with the exhaust ones then but with VCT.

That's some helpful stuff TO4GTR. 18 litres is a fair bit of oil but I suppose it would fit. Crank would be swimming though. I wonder if he filled it through the dipstick too

Would have been nice to take a look and see some quick times. Gotta agree with snowie that a cage should be mandatory for those times. I've actually just been over bugging Issy at Selectmaz to see if the Improved Production car is for sale but he is running it next year so I'll probably just build one. Much less maintenance for track and lower costs runing an RX7 now that they are getting less popular.

But Youngs Modulus remains about 200GPa for Steel. Titanium alloys are from 100-110GPa.

I think it stuffs with the AFM.

It may well work but since RB25DET's are extremely sensitive to fuel quality and ignition advance and increased boost and anything else that can cause detonation (hence broken ring lands and an engine rebuild) I would suggest avoid it like the plague. I've broken 2 RB25 engines and there are others in the broken engine thread in my sig so take a look and see if you want to play with fire. My advice, spend the money on the usual stuff and save big dollars on rebuilds. No guarantees though, something can still go wrong in the hunt for power as with my RB25DETT race engine that cost me over 7K to build myself with turbo setup. One of the turbos let go lunching the front 3 cylinders.

The single rear appears to be off a GTR which has a yoke instead of a bush.

The Alchemist put this to rest a little while back. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=75069&hl=

I'll wander over at 10:30 but if no-one is there I'm back to the couch for Indy.

I have 3 R33's, they all smell a little different but are very distinct from the typical aussie car smell.

Sensational news Ni, and congratulations on being convincing enough to get a 'Yes'. I hope you have many happy years together.

And most of the rattles and squeaks caused by the rock crap-jap suspension have just disappeared. At the risk of being out of line, just how much boobie jiggling is too much?? I didn't think there was such a thing.

What's wrong with 'NALA Was a good story on today tonight just now about bulletproof and potential suburbs and had some good ones in Brissy. Basically what Bunta said tho.

Try any brake place. Since you are too scared to say where you are, try Lalor Brake and Clutch.

Well they either cancel out or you are doubly damned And while I like my V8 soarer I have 3 skylines to atone for my sins.

Give me till June/July I'll have a newly completed reno for ya Quitting professional life as an engineer to do reno's with the Missus, and I'll be focussing on the inner west and northern suburbs which tend to be leafier and prettier. Throw up a whereis map and start to learn the layout a bit. You should do ok around Red Hill, The Gap, and well there are just so many good places so I gues elimination is better than posting all the good ones.

Cheers mate. I was a bit shocked when I measured the rears to find such a huge rate imbalance front - rear. All still looks in good condition and maybe ok for regular track but the GTR is less track and more daily driver. Suddenly all these rattles and squeaks have disappeared

Just measured up the "you-know-whats" mate and have the following Front OD top 126mm OD bottom 94mm 13.4mm wire 8.75 turns no signs of stack contact, ovoid taper to the bottom with the last 3 making most of the taper. Rear OD top 126mm OD bottom 117mm Wire top 5.25 turns at 11.7mm signs of contacting Wire bottom 4.25 turns at 13.8mm Ouch Let me know if you think you need more detail. Shocks were fully soft on adjustment.

Stolen from Steves Sig in WA

I do a lot of counter tailing as well. I live in a quiet street with no through traffic so if followed it would be by a neighbour or someone with a reason to be there. So will often drag a following car around a few extra blocks and get them lost in the back rabbit warrens of the estate then bugger off through the poorly known back entrance. Security gets stupid with a Skyline sometimes.

Accountants, with lawyers, are the natural enemy of the Engineer.....but they need a life too. I wear a suit to work even though I'm a "uniformed" member of the ADF and the suit is much nicer