GTRgeoff

My only concern is I'll be putting remote filters and coolers on the Skylines I'll be keeping, and they almost never use the same filter. Otherwise I'd be on board mate.

Goddam Victoria...it's an Icebox. Surprised even Kiwis will live here.

Getting a cold so with the back still healing I was too sore and tired to go stand in the cold.

Getting a cold so with the back still healing I was too sore and tired to go stand in the cold.

Take a look here for good links www.roadsense.com.au I believe it is a minimum of 200m for a speed check with a calibrated speedo. A good lawyer will destroy him. Admit nothing and deny everything.

Denham, consider the thickness as well. Are they 33mm compared to the 30mm of the GTSt size? If they will fit then do it. Get the spacers made and enjoy. Might be some extra cost in the final solid brake line elbow mod though.

Car????

The Standard GTR34 turbos will do it, but take note that after being removed and refitted it increases the likelihood of the turbines failing. I fitted a set to a GTS25t and 2km into the first drive at 5psi the front one let go, wrecking the front 3 cylinders. To what extend I don't know yet as I still have to pull it down but compression is 25psi on the front 3 cylinders. I have steel wheeled stockers on the GTR and they produce 260rwkw at 1 bar.

More pics, especially the rear.

Congrats Lauren and Paul and welcome to your first mortgage. Sounds like a pretty nicely setup place and a long termer to boot. Don't forget to check the rafters in the garage for strength to lift an engine out (or in) yourselves. Saves on car repair bills so the mortgage gets paid From the title I actually thought there might be a wedding or ..... news of a hybrid V Spec model GTSt from the Nismo shop (oh I'm so funny today)

Is this the one that goes on it's side?? I almost puked after a few minutes of that. Better have another look.

Denham I hand you your ass at the track using them....and a few guys using the rediculously priced DBA stuff. Go with them mate. Never heard of a failure and yet the DBA stuff is a bit of a concern in some circles and I do know of failures and a well known race brake expert dislikes them. DBA sponsor Improved Production in NSW. RDA sponsor same in Vic.

So what's taking so long...??????

Again, rob the bank.......

Aero bars: these are good for an extra position but you need to adapt to the extended position as it puts a lot of strain on the back through the illiotibial tendons. If you can easily put your hands flat on the ground then you are ready to start using them. The best ones don't take up the position on the bar tops where you need to put your hands. You will lose some stability control of you bike (hence why triathletes can't ride to save themselves as they constantly ride straight roads on them- see tricrashletes). Mine are spring loaded so pop up when I am off them to give me full access to the bar tops. I tape them down for fast TT's that are a short distance like tour prologues. Start with 5 mins then start extending the time on them but use for no longer than 20 min if just cruising. I still recommend about 5 min before changing position.

Just wondering, did you just block the lines or put a loop in? BTW pictures back up.

OK, time for some more motivation......bike fit. Your bike should be comfortable, so you need to make sure that everything is in the right position for YOU. Not some table. They are a good starting point but from there you need to sdjust the fit. Personally I like to adjust the seat so it's a comfortable distance back from the bars. Too much weight on the hands and you will know it, and your lower back. One of the best positions found for height and position is to sit on the bike with the cranks aligned with the seat tube, and using a plumb bob locate the nexus of the kneecap and knee joint and locate the string over this point. If the seat position is correct then the knee will be just broken and the plumb line will run straight through the axle. From this position, if you find you have a little pain in the front region of the knee then raise your seat. If the pain is at the rear then lower your seat. It won't be real painful, just uncomfortable pushing a big gear. You will understand when you feel it. I can always help with this. Only ever adjust by 2mm increments. You may have to ride 5-10km to start to notice the difference. The weight on the hands is now adjusted by setting the handlebar reach and height. Always tough to setup but you should not be too low. This is for racing flat out and most of the weight is taken off the hands and so you get low for weight balance to drive the bike faster. On a longer ride you will appreciate sitting a bit higher. Also try to change hand position every 5 minutes.

No worries. You will appreciate the difference.

Liz, having been down this path and done some engine rebuilding in my time and worked as a mechanic for a long time so I'd suggest: dump the metal gasket and use a stock one, $80 get the block O ringed (a stainless ring about 0.6mm around each cylinder for the stock gasket) (around $120) $200 has to be less than the metal gasket which retail about 400 modify the oil system at the top face of the block. Close off the front feed of the 2 along the block. Sorry no pics but there is one for the VCT and 2 for the head oiling. Helps prevent over-oiling the head and lack of oil in the sump, hence oil surge if cornering hard. These are just standard inserts. Straighten the crank, remove the oil plugs and tap and fully clean the galleries. Insert grub screws. Balance from harmonic balancer to clutch. This will make it run and feel much smoother and is good for longevity of the engine and smooth power delivery if pushing hard (eg track) Pull all welsh plugs and oil plugs. Acid dip block and fully clean ready for build after fitting pistons.($70) ACL heat treated race bearings around $140 using RB30 mains and SR20 Big Ends (unless you can now get specific RB25/26 sets) Use GTR rods(about $250), get them x rayed for integrity($30) I had all this done and a few other things for around $1200 with a recommended reco shop in Melb, but I had no previous business there.

Ant, as discussed last night, I'll take it. Cheers

A matter of preference really I suppose. Back on topic, I believe +30 will work for the R34GTt in both 8 and 9 inch

Great Leewah. Here's Ash thinking lets get some mileage out of the uber flog mines_datsun and he's the target again . So, now the story must be told so we can get back to bashing the wanker.

Meh, 18's suck!! The Te37's on the GTR rub the arches front and rear, cost too much for rubber, have limited access to semi comp rubber and don't feel as good on the road. Too little tyre, too much wheel = harsh ride. They are also prone to understeer due to the amount of mass away from the centre of rotation. I'd sell mine in a second for a decent set of 17's with enough cash adjustment.

As above

Woohoo Do I get a mintie?