Zane

Can I get some pics of the floor mats. Are they genuine Nissan mats? I only really need the fronts, are you willing to seperate? Z

Just going through some old threads and noticed that I never posted an update. Better late than never. Went with the HG rebuild/highflow option. Stao's service was A1 and the turbo was back in my hands in about a week (Syd-->Melb-->Syd). The FMIC and plumbing was removed, cleaned, checked for damage, and reassembled. Throttle body also checked and cleaned. All good so far. Engine was checked for any damage, plugs removed, visual inspection all ok. Looks like the FMIC caught all the busted compressor wheel bits. Installation of the turbo and oil lines went as expected, left the heatshields off in case I had to go back in later. Removed the standard boost valve and replace the wastegate actuator with an R32 10psi unit. Also stayed with the factory dump for now. Front pipe back is 3" - 3.25" - 3.5" and I have a 3" bell mouth dump/front to install later if required. Inspected and cleaned the AFM - this would have been the reason for not being able to maintain idle. Rechecked all fittings, filled coolant, replaced oil/filter. Rechecked all fittings again - to be sure. Finished beer, crossed fingers, primed fuel pump and fired it up. Kicked first go and ran a smooth idle. That's pretty much it. I've been too busy/lazy to sort out the SAFC so the factory CPU is running 10psi on the standard pump and injectors. Feels stronger all through the rev range but there is a noticable lag (about 500rpm) before boost comes on strong. This was expected due to the highflow and would improve slightly if I install the bellmouth dump, install/tune the SAFC, and adjusted the timing a bit. It's nothing I can't live with. MADGTS has returned to it's daily duties of getting the kids to school and me to work every day. Still as reliable as I could ever want. Just kicked over 208,000kms and it's still the best car I've ever owned. Cheers, Z

I've just replaced my battery. After doing the ring around I ended up at Super Charge at Blacktown who found me a battery that was the same size - with the pencil sized terminals - that fit perfectly in the standard tray. The battery was a MF40B20L and although RRP was around $130 they let me have it for $90 - bargain. It's a fully sealed, maintenance free battery so no loose vapours in the boot and is rated at 360CCA which also aligns with the standard specs. If your running a few amplifiers and like leaving the stereo on without the engine running, or you have one of those alarms that just loves to slowly drain your battery over a few days, I would recommend replacing your battery terminals for some larger sizes. You would then be able to get a fractionally larger battery rated to around 450 - 500CCA and that would keep you cranking on the coldest of mornings. Z

I SMS'd you on Wed and again today. As above, these style fibreglass pods are notorious for poor fitting and although yours do look in great condition you would no doubt get a quick sale if you could post up some pics with them in place on the car - even if only taped in place. On a side note - can anyone verify whether these would also fit an R33 GTS? I'm thinking that the flared rear guards on the GTR would mean that the wrap around sections of the pods would not sit flush against the back of the bumper. GLWS Z

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Would be interested to see pics of these on a car. I might be interested depending what they look like matched with 400R side skirts. Z

I'll take two if someone else local wants the others. Seller isn't keen on spiltting them up otherwise. Z

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When you say 'got altered', what did hypergear do to it? I already have a fresh Hypergear highflow bolted up but am running the standard R33 actuator. Looking for an R32 actuator to run 10psi with a boost controller to take it up to around 14psi until I get around to doing the injectors. Z

Looking for a standard R32 GTSt actuator. Prefer pickup in Sydney. PM or post if you have one in good condition. Cheers, Adam

Let's put this into perspective. The paper gasket for the oil return is $2.70. The metal gasket for the dump pipe is $39.90. I agree you don't want either to fail so you want a quality product but one is punched out of a paper sheet, the other punched out of a metal sheet. From a production perspective there are few differences so, minus the material cost difference, the rest is mark up. Anyway the search for a more cost effective product has turned up no real contenders so Nissan got my money. Z

Bit the bullet and ordered one through Nissan. Had none in stock so will be shipped up from Melb tomorrow. Got $5 off for the inconvenience. Z

Thanks for the link but I would use $5 in petrol driving to JJ and back. For a part I'm sure they're punching out for about 35c it's a bit depressing that they can't be purchased at a more reasonable price. Z

As the title suggests, I am in need of a new turbo dump pipe gasket (metal one) to suit the standard 6 bolt rb25 turbo. Our friends at Nissan want just shy of $40 for the honour. Surely there is a more cost effective place to purchase one from, preferably in the Sydney area. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Nissan part number - 14445 V2700 Z

Also interested in the front pipe. I'm in Sydney and can pick up but don't know your location. Please reply to my PM. Z

Wish you would have posted this earlier today. I posted mine off about two hours ago. Z

Will be sending the turbo to Hypergear in the next day or two. Seems that for the cost you can't go wrong. I'm not chasing horsepower, to date it's been running std CPU, 8psi, around 165rwkw with FMIC, exhaust and suspension mods so any increase will be noticable. I have a decent GTR fuel pump and an SAFC in a box somewhere so should be able to get somewhere around the 210-220rwkw before the std injectors max out. All assuming there is nothing major wrong with the engine. Z

Will pull the FMIC before going much further and empty anything that may have been blown through. Already checked the piping and connectors for the rest of the inlet. No pictures of the turbo but I have a shot somewhere of the crap I emptied out of the cat. The AFM appears to be ok but I will give it a clean when I have everything ready to be bolted back on. Unfortunately I don't think I can run a compression test until the turbo is back as any cranking of the engine is likely to spew oil (and whatever is left of the coolant) everywhere. So is there a reputable turbo place based in Sydney that can highflow my turbo? I'd rather save the transport cost of sending it to Victoria. Z

Ok, so after 16 years, 192,912 kms and it's fair share of abuse, MADGTS has finally spat the standard turbo. Not just the exhaust wheel (fantastic diving catch by the Cat) but it also shreaded the impeller. I may have contributed slightly by winding in a tad too much boost - 8psi to about 15psi on the std CPU - but that's all history now. What I do have is a few questions. When the turbo went bang the car died. It did the normal puff of smoke out the exhaust but basically died straight away. After doing a quick plumbing check under the bonnet for any hoses or connectors that may have come loose (it did sound like a hose had let go) and under the car for any fluid loss, I cranked it over intending to limp it home. The car would not hold idle, in fact the only way to keep it running was to rapidly pump the accelerator but even then the revs would only just make 1500rpm - not enough power to move the car. So I rolled it into the gutter and walked back home (luckily only 300m) to ask the wife for a tow. Once home I gave everything the once over again but could not find a reason why the car would not idle. The turbo has now been removed but I fear that something else may have been damaged as I expected the car to still run minus boost. What do you think? Could I have done more damage than just the turbo? Also the turbo will need a steel wheel rebuild/highflow. Is there anyone able to do this in Sydney (Seven Hills/Blacktown/Castle Hill area prefered)? Or should I just send it to Hypergear in VIC as they seem to have the best price and get very good reviews? Z

Location? Also how much for just the turbo?

So once Infiniti starts selling the G37 here, will we be able to source "reasonably" priced english/Australian buttons, stereo/Sat Nav, etc? Would be very handy for upspecing the local imports. Z

If your looking for cheap improvements buy yourself a decent bleed valve and wind in 10-12psi, gap plugs to 0.8mm, buy a second hand SAFC for $200, spend $200 getting it tuned and you'll get around 190rwkw with heaps more midrange. Not as much flexibility as a full ECU but much less cost and unless you are going to the next stage of mods you won't need it. You'll start to see the standard SMIC getting heat soaked so factor in a bigger, higher flowing FMIC. Be prepared to outlay for a new HD clutch and maybe a set of decent coilpacks in the near future as the standard one's are at least 15 years old. Z