raz0r$harP.UK

He's also on the forums, funnily enough, as adelaideprosound

L8RSXY - Black V35 with a kit on it going down Market St in the city... looked pretty nice.

No you can't.

The standard switch should only change whether the mast is half-height or full height. The power-antenna wire on the headunit is used to fully retract the aerial when the tuner is not on (i.e. when you are playing a CD / auxillary input) So if you don't have an power-antenna wire on your headunit, it should raise when you turn the ignition on, and retract when you switch off. If you want to lower it fully, you'll have to wire up a manual switch off the factory loom. I guess you might be able to use the remote wire to trigger a relay, but all that would achieve is being able to retract the aerial when the headunit is not active (& in my car, the headunit is on probably 99% of the time the car is, which would make it kinda pointless in my opinion).

AQIS requirements on imports - which may more onerous if you will be using them for commercial purposes (i.e. retailing). Might be worth remembering that tyres across different regions may have differing compounds to suit the particular locality and may not be as suitable as the local equivalents. Anyway, moved to GA.

I just used the bank account off the sticky in GA: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...?showtopic=4845

BUMP Seats and R32 Mirrors still available. Rest sold. PM ME if interested

Hey these are still available. Dont have a pic of them sorry but I will try and get one. Maybe someone who has one can upload a pic? Bank details sent.

Your DVD player could be a source. Those ebay jobbies tend to have cheap componetry. Alternatively, follow this guide and try to isolate the problem: http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html

Do you have to do a LHD conversion on cars coming into Dubai mate?

Saw a maroon R33 racing a commodore on the M4 about an hour ago.. [ZDQ112]

Probably best served in the Victoria forum?

It's an R34 but you get the idea... something like this Was originally done by Drew at Northfield Moorooka, and if I remember correctly this enclosure made it's way onto the [MR DMD] R34 up in QLD.

Screwdriver should be enough, really Once you pop off the console trim, just remove the screws as you see them, and once you've removed the stereo/aircon/gauges it should be fairly easy to see how they are mounted, swap them around, and screw it all back in.

You shouldn't have any issues. Mounting points are identical and there should be enough be enough wire. I did a similar thing in my R33. Swapped around the climate control and stereo. No modifications required. Cables were fine. (NB: in the R33 the topmost item (climate control in GTST or triple cluster in GTR) has a notch in the top right to cater for the oddly shaped console surround. If you're planning to do similar in an R33 take that into consideration!).

Russelll this is the link for the DOTARS website for importing a race vehicle: http://www.dotars.gov.au/roads/safety/bull...rting.aspx#5.10 If you have any other questions post em up Vijay

Victor look here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=166479 Liquid's car had some work done by Marty incl. grounding points for the boot. There's pictures which show exactly what was run where.

It depends on the compliance scheme you are looking at. It should be okay but with some minor qualifications. SEVS would generally be okay, 15 year / personal import schemes have slightly different requirements from state to state, may need some minor additional work. But something like this is pretty common e.g. for SEVS cars which no compliance workshop exists in your state. You'd get it complied in that state, and shipped to your state after that for initial registration.

http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/licensing/yourvehicle/1383.asp

I would rather go a sub in boot + amped splits up front over 6x9s in the car. Some ppl will want 6x9s. Personal preference really. In my old GTST, the rears were ripped out at compliance. Fronts were amped. In my GTR, the rears are in, run off the deck and the fronts amped. Honestly I can't notice the difference having the rear speakers in. Then again, I don't have any back seat passengers in the car. Unplug your rear speakers, and drive around for a week. See if there's a noticeable difference. I reckon there won't be much.

Read here: http://www.dynamat.com/products_car_audio_dynaxorb.html Basically they absorb sound waves reflected off behind the speaker into the door cavity.

Good idea. Rears don't really do much apart from providing 'fill' for passengers in the back seat. If you're looking for a fairly low-budget upgrade for the front, the Jaycar Precision Response splits are v.good value for money @ $149 RRP (link). If you are looking for product suggestions though Victor, use the 'what to buy' thread above. Cheers!

Which VIN (the sticker on the door or the strut tower) matches up with the original Jap (blue) plate (on the firewall)?

Yeah they usually will if you confirm ownership with them. I've done it before, no hassles.

Ok I'm assuming you are aware that an S320 would be a personal import, you'd need to satisfy the normal import requirements, etc etc. But once it's landed and compled most of the costs are no different to other cars. In NSW you'd be looking at: - Blue slip for an imported vehicle costs $116.80 incl GST - Green slip (Compulsory Third Party Insurance) costs anywhere from $300-650. Exact cost from the CTP calculator here - Registration fee is based on weight, for a car 1505kg to 2504kg it's $373. Plus whatever number plate fees you get. - You would also pay stamp duty on the car, currently $1350 plus $5 for every $100 (rounded up) over $45000 (based on the greater of sale price or market value) - and then you would have the option of taking out Third Party Property or Compulsory Insurance (check with insurers).